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New bov and less boost?

I got a new bov recently and it feels like I'm making less boost. It's a GFB bov. Is it the bov making me have less of a pull or is it something else?
 

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Master Baiter
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22,114 Posts
Have you verified it isn't leaking?
Did you properly set up the spring tension?
How are you monitoring manifold pressure?
 

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Premium Member
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What year is your car and why did you get the BOV?
 

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Premium Member
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My suggestion go back to stock
 

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Premium Member
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I know you have to adjust the spring tension but I don't know what it does
Can someone explain how the tension spring works on the GFB bov please

The spring tension adjustment allows you to.. well, change the tension on the spring, which will change the pressure at which the valve opens.


It should have a knob on it of some sorts. Turn it one way to loosen, the other way to tighten. What you want to do is increase the spring tension on the valve until the point that it doesn't leak anymore. Pretty self explanatory really.
 

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Pro Manscaper
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I paid almost 300 bucks for it and I don't wanna go back to stock. Can someone explain how the tension spring works on the GFB bov please
Its cool...getting into modding without researching is always good. Nothing like potentially causing damage on a $30,000 car just because you want it to sound louder.
 

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Village Idiot
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3,469 Posts
Unfortunately, this is a bit more complicated than just slapping a BOV on there and calling it a day. We need more information to properly diagnose the problem other than "it feels slower". That really does nothing for us. Improperly installing a BOV can cause a lot of issues.

What Nsibanez is trying to say is that it would be wise for you to do a little research as to what you are buying and about to install on the car, as well as what other mods it may need. The reasoning behind this is that these cars are quite a bit more finicky than most. Meaning, slight changes causing poor running conditions can damage the engine quicker than most. More times than not, this leads to the block blowing up. This isn't a honda platform where you pretty much have to throw a screwdriver in the cylinder to get it to blow up... and sometimes even after that it would run ok. At any rate, while 100% atmosphere blowoff sounds cool, it's actually harmful to the engine. A 100% recirculating valve is what you want and will allow the car to run properly. This is called a bypass valve because it recirculated the already metered air back into the intake post MAF.

If I'm remembering correctly, the GFB BOV can be set to recirculate as it's a hybrid valve. This means you can, and should, set it to recirculate most of the air. People have had success running a hybrid setup to get the sound you are looking for while retaining a majority for the functionality of the stock BPV. By this you would set like 70% of the air to recirculate while the other 30% vents to the atmosphere. However, I'm currently under the assumption you are set to 100% vent to atmosphere. If you are using this part that way then you essentially bought an expensive noisemaker that has the chance of cause issues serious enough to cause your engine to blow up over the course of a short period of time (6-12 months or possibly sooner).

Now, after explaining that, the issue could still be somewhere else as EJ257 explained and it is difficult to diagnose without us knowing what else is going on.

Read these writeups explaining BOV's and BPV's and how they work and what problems are caused by doing one over the other:

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine-modifications/134369345-blowoff-valve-bov-faq.html

Bypass and Blow-Off valves on Subaru WRX STI | R U Subaru? - Tuning Forced Induction Cars and Alcohol Injection
 

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Registered
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Thank you for your time. I don't have it open all the way I have the vent open about 15%. Just to get the sound. It Dosent backfire or anything like that. By slower I meant that, when I step on the gas i no longer have the surge of power that puts me back into my seat. It seems like there isn't as much torque when I get into the high rpms and that makes me feel like the turbo isnt working right. I will make the spring tension tighter and switch to the stock bov to compare
 

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I would check your data logs and make sure the ECU isn't pulling timing..
This is what it sounds like if you aren't back in your seat. Your boost levels are probably at 8 psi max and your DAM is less than .5
 

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Premium Member
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Does GFB not have instructions for their products?

You know, I thought surely they would have a pdf of the instructions that are included with the valve online, but when I went to look for it I came up empty. The closest they had online was a Q&A, is the spring tension adjustable? Yes it is. Start with low tension, and turn the knob until all leaking stops at idle. That's it.
 

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Moderator
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You know, I thought surely they would have a pdf of the instructions that are included with the valve online, but when I went to look for it I came up empty. The closest they had online was a Q&A, is the spring tension adjustable? Yes it is. Start with low tension, and turn the knob until all leaking stops at idle. That's it.
Super lame.
 

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Village Idiot
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3,469 Posts
Okay so I adjusted the tension and we are back in business baby. Hit the turbo baby
Did this piece really come without instructions? You pay $300 for the damn thing, one would figure that simple spring tension adjustment instructions would be included... I guess that's too much to ask. :rotfl:

On a real note, glad you got the problem solved. I would suggest getting a wideband o2 sensor sooner than later so you can monitor your A/F ratio and a boost gauge, since you have installed a part that can affect both your boost and you A/F ratio. Especially since you have no way to data log or pull the learning history. Otherwise, you have no way to tell if something is going wrong until everything goes kaboom.
 
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