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Discussion Starter #1
Right now I have:

VF39
MBC
Uppipe
Downpipe
Pulley
Intercooler hoses
SPT Springs
Stock Fuel

I currently run a 13.3 @ 99

I plan on adding a catback and a aftermarket cluth and lightened flywheel (I am thinking of an Exedy hyper single but if you have better reccomendations let me know because I will be doing it soon.) When I add those two mods I want to run a 12.99.

After that I am going to get bigger injectors and a fuel pump along with a wet 50 shot of nitrous and I want to run a 12.5 or lower.

By then my Accessport should come in so I will then go with either the VF39 still or an 18G, and FMIC. I will take it to Cobb to get it tuned to run on 91, 93, and 100 and hopefully they will tune it with the nitrous. I want to run low 11s when this gets done.

Any suggestions?
 

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Bigger turbo.

New tranny.

A lot of prayer.

Learn from Larry's weight saving efforts.

110 octane.

A lot more prayer.

Preparation for disappointment.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
LOL! I am going to try though.

Weight reduction will be used as a last resort. I want to see how fast I can be with full interior.

I want to keep the stock internals also.
 

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I have actually given this a bit of thought lately. In my list of potentials for a project car I have thought of taking a wrecked/salvaged 02 WRX and doing the following:

-GUT IT out to bare minimums (apply to hotrod/Larry school of car weight loss 101) - get it down to about 2500-2700lbs with me in it (I weight 190ish).
-Get a 2.5 short block + V7 JSpec good flowing heads + dogbox tranny
-Get a GT35R or larger turbo - somthing that can get me around 2bar+ of boost
-then all the other usual goodies - BIG FMIC, 650+cc injectors, probably tune the whole thing with a Link as I already know it, it's cheap and it is speed density based (bye bye annoying MAF).

I figure that should be good for about 400whp up here on race gas which should do mid-low 11s if I get the weight of the car just right.

With your current mod plans I would see low 12s at the absolute best. Tuned out on race gas...

but remember this is all just MHO ;).
 

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Mad WRX said:
I would think you'd want a high revving 2.0 motor

www.axispowerracing.net stage 2 valve train kit

"Our second kit utilizes a dual valve spring design and can handle 9500+ RPMS. "

Since that huge turbo won't spool til about 4800-5000 rpms you still have a very usable powerband
Yah I thought about that after I posted. But according to Larry/hotrod the 2.5 short block should handle higher rpms ok [shrug]. But yah you are right either way a axis 2.5-2.8L engine would RAWK... unfortunately they are quite pricey and the wait time is quite long...

2.5 USDM blocks are cheap ... relativetly speaking ;).
 

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I too am thinking about a "project" car, but looking more towards a rwd plaything.

Anyway, back on topic............I think trying to get a daily driven wrx to run a low 11 is going to be quite the task. I think that it's going to be a bigger project than you're expecting. I think my Rex had VERY high 11's in her and I just didn't really enjoy driving my Rex at the end (hence the Evo). I can't imagine a car that could run a half a second faster. Nothing like a turbo that kicks in at 5200 -5500 rpm's. Nitrous helps on the track, but is hard on the pocket when you try to use it at EVERY stoplight.

First,
I don't think the stock internals can handle to power needed to run a low 11 (then drive home). Then, you'll run into a tranny able to handle it too. Then, comes the diff. Remember, your Rex isn't a trailer queen and thus the problem of reliability comes into play.

Converting to a 2.5 or even a stroked version would make your goal a whole lot more obtainable. Maybe, move to sea level wouldn't hurt. ;) These would make it easier to run a giant turbo which you'll be needing. A VF39 is just too small.

IMHO.........You're going to need a lot more goodies/money than you think. What you have and what you've listed is just not going to do it. Like I told you, I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but It will be VERY, VERY difficult to get your Rex to run a low 11.

BUT, this is just my opinion. What do I know anyway. I didn't think Larry could run times like he is with a 13G. :) You just may do it. I do wish you the best of luck.

:cool:
 

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The ESX car runs 9.4x at sea level. Up here (if they got a good run in:rolleyes: ) would run mid 10's I would think. That thing is obviously completely built and makes about 1000hp according to one of their mechanics. Getting to low 11's would take a TON of money. Its possible but will take a lot to get there.

Then again, I probably don't know what I am talking about.:wiggles:
 

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Not easy

It's not as easy as it might look.

First of all you need to figure out why your current set up is falling on its face in the traps. With a 13.3 trap you should be trapping up around the mid 101 mph range.

Power required to go faster increases at the cube of the speed, so it's an exponential increase in $ too.

Just for back ground figureing a full weight car at about 3350# with driver these are the trap speeds you would need to be able to run and a guess at the absolute minimum power required if you made a flawless run, with brutal 1.6x -1.5x launches on the quicker et's.

Note: AZscoobie pulled a 1.603 60' on a [email protected] run with a 75 shot of Nitrous at Phoenix altitudes, on I believe a PE1820 turbo.

Code:
ET       trap mph   AWHP
13.3      101.65     236
13.0      104.00     253
12.5      108.16     285
12.0      112.67     321
11.5      117.56     366
So you will nearly need to double your current power to get solid mid 11's if you want to go easy on the launch to protect the tranny.

But according to Larry/hotrod the 2.5 short block should handle higher rpms ok
Right, given the very short stroke and low piston speeds in both the 2.0 and 2.5 the engines should love to rev. I suspect 99% of their current power limitations is cams and heads closely followed by turbos that can feed them.

I believe you'd need to be running Jun 264 or 272 cams and good heads to have any real chance of running 11's

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Re: Not easy

hotrod said:
It's not as easy as it might look.

First of all you need to figure out why your current set up is falling on its face in the traps. With a 13.3 trap you should be trapping up around the mid 101 mph range.

Power required to go faster increases at the cube of the speed, so it's an exponential increase in $ too.

Just for back ground figureing a full weight car at about 3350# with driver these are the trap speeds you would need to be able to run and a guess at the absolute minimum power required if you made a flawless run, with brutal 1.6x -1.5x launches on the quicker et's.

Note: AZscoobie pulled a 1.603 60' on a [email protected] run with a 75 shot of Nitrous at Phoenix altitudes, on I believe a PE1820 turbo.

Code:
ET       trap mph   AWHP
13.3      101.65     236
13.0      104.00     253
12.5      108.16     285
12.0      112.67     321
11.5      117.56     366
So you will nearly need to double your current power to get solid mid 11's if you want to go easy on the launch to protect the tranny.



Right, given the very short stroke and low piston speeds in both the 2.0 and 2.5 the engines should love to rev. I suspect 99% of their current power limitations is cams and heads closely followed by turbos that can feed them.

I believe you'd need to be running Jun 264 or 272 cams and good heads to have any real chance of running 11's

Larry
Thanks for the info!

I did run a 13.5 @ 100 but I think my trap speeds are hampered
due to the fact that I am dropping to ~12 psi at redline and am still using the stock catback.

As far as the weight of my car goes, I weighed in at Bandimere at 3100 lbs full interior with me in it and the only mod was a MBC. Since then I have added the mods which I am hoping have saved some weight. How would your calculations look at 3100 lbs with a 1.7x 60'?
 

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lighter

If you work the numbers at 3100 lbs you come up with a need to produce about 422 hp at the crank or 338 at the wheels to run an 11.5 @117.56 .

The cat back is worth about .5 seconds I would guess.

Larry
 

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Re: Not easy

hotrod said:
It's not as easy as it might look.

First of all you need to figure out why your current set up is falling on its face in the traps. With a 13.3 trap you should be trapping up around the mid 101 mph range.

trap speeds you would need to be able to run and a guess at the absolute minimum power required if you made a flawless run, with brutal 1.6x -1.5x launches on the quicker et's.

Note: AZscoobie pulled a 1.603 60' on a [email protected] run with a 75 shot of Nitrous at Phoenix altitudes, on I believe a PE1820 turbo.

Code:
ET       trap mph   AWHP
13.3      101.65     236
13.0      104.00     253
12.5      108.16     285
12.0      112.67     321
11.5      117.56     366
So you will nearly need to double your current power to get solid mid 11's if you want to go easy on the launch to protect the tranny.

Larry
I also thought that the trap speed was just a little light. I was thinking it should be right around 101-102 mph. As far as AZscoobie's times........don't forget his ability to tune.

Scoolbuzz: I was looking at your times of your run and it looks like you're running really fast for the first 330' and then you seem to slow down just a bit. I'm sure 12 lbs of boost at redline doesn't help. Do you still think that your VF39 can handle a run into the mid-low 11's?

I do think a good catback and clutch would get you close to your 12.99 goal. Plus, you're a friend of ScubaSteve's.........so driving tips are always good. ;)

Your goals up to 12.5 seem realistic. It is the goals beyond that is going to take A LOT. :eek3:


Larry:
what's your take on a stock EJ20 & drivetrain being able to handle 420+hp. Not to mention the power it would take to get into the low 11's.
 

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drive train

Larry:
what's your take on a stock EJ20 & drivetrain being able to handle 420+hp. Not to mention the power it would take to get into the low 11's.
Risky but possible. Clark was running the stock 5 spd when he made those runs, and as I understand it, kept the tranny alive until he made the upgrade to the other engine, with several hundred drag strip passes at those power levels. Off the top of my head I'm not sure if he upgraded to the 6spd when he swapped engines.

If I had the money I'd upgrade the 5spd with an aftermarket gear set rather than go to the 6 speed.

I just don't want to shift that much.
A higher rev limit and a better gear spacing on the 5 spd would be ideal in my estimation.

Larry
 

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I do think that the stock drive train is stronger than people think. I was running a stock setup and never had any issues.

Was Clark running his Rex as a daily driver?

As far as the 5-speed, I'm with you.....................I don't like to shift any more than I have to. The only thing about the 5-speed is weak case. I don't like the amount of flex the case gives. Maybe some type of strap system would be beneficial to reduce this.

What do you think about stock Subaru internals handling this kind of power? And, do you see one being able to put out that kind of power and run up here and last? IMH and worthless opinion..........chances would be slim to get a big turbo, nitrous, stock cams, stock heads, fuel flow to match and get a "perfect" tune. 4-door, 2.0L, AWD, daily driver that runs mid-low 11's................ :eek: would be an awesome accomplishment.

Scoolbuzz: forgot to ask..........what is your planned budget and timeline for your project? Best of luck, for sure. I know I'll be there when you run to cheer you on and watch everyone else's faces. ;)
 

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5 spd

I think Clark drove it regularly, I think he has another car though.

I think the stock driver train can handle up in the low 400 hp range with a little care.

If I upgraded the tranny I would probably go with a straight cut low and possibly second gear, and a slightly lower rear end ratio.

More gear in the diff's would take load off the tranny.

A little work on the suspension regarding stiffer suspension bushings and possibly strut valving to limit wheel hop, which appears to be a major tranny killer on the subaru. By some accounts the DSM's also have drive train problems with wheel hop only they shell center diff's if they wheel hop under high power.

A higher red line rpm, with better cams to allow you to stay in gear a bit longer between shifts, and a 4th gear ratio that redlined just a couple hundred rpm above your target trap speed.

I know Clark makes a point of preventive maint on the 5 spd, as he routinely got under the car and checked all the bolts on the tranny were tight.
 

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another solution.

I am of the opinion that a big shot of nitrous would do whatever you want. I ran a 100 shot which actually netted about 150 HP under boost. At the time I estimate I was pushing around 240-250 HP at the wheels uncorrected based upon my [email protected] I would have had an 11 had the transmission stayed together. The powermeter ID unit which currently reads about 240hp was reading 420HP and it felt like it too. With just a 50 shot, I ran [email protected]

If you spend some money on a progressive nitrous controller , individual wet nitrous injection for each cylinder, and a strengthened gearbox, be it dogbox or sti or simply hardened gears. I think you can reach your goals. Safely. Kinda.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Re: another solution.

WRX Harvey said:
I am of the opinion that a big shot of nitrous would do whatever you want. I ran a 100 shot which actually netted about 150 HP under boost. At the time I estimate I was pushing around 240-250 HP at the wheels uncorrected based upon my [email protected] I would have had an 11 had the transmission stayed together. The powermeter ID unit which currently reads about 240hp was reading 420HP and it felt like it too. With just a 50 shot, I ran [email protected]

If you spend some money on a progressive nitrous controller , individual wet nitrous injection for each cylinder, and a strengthened gearbox, be it dogbox or sti or simply hardened gears. I think you can reach your goals. Safely. Kinda.
Those ideas are along the lines that I have been thinking of! I was pricing those parts out on Friday!

As far as a budget goes I want to keep everything as close as I can to $5K. I am going to be in the 12s within a month. Hopefully an 11 by mid - late September.
 
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