SubiSpeed DRL bezels
3
I finished an install of the Subispeed LED DRL bezels on my '17 Limited. For anyone who wants to know, I decided to hardwire in the bezels to the stock DRL wiring.
This photo shows how I spliced the red wire for the included harness to the green power wire. I'm sure this is elementary for many of you modding veterans, but it was all new to me and took a bit of research on-line and on this forum to learn what I needed to disable the high beams and wire up the bezels properly.
To access the DRL resistor, I took off the front bumper. I'm pretty sure once can get access from under the car with the front end up on jack stands or a lift According to the wiring diagram I found:
http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/70977/pdf/serviceManual/075471_2015_WRX/G1190BEV1_1081.pdf
The green wire supplies 12v power to the DRL resistor and that power returns via the white/black wire and goes to the high beams. Unplugging the connector to the resistor kills the high beams' DRL function. To obtain the full 12v power for the bezels, but also retain the stock connector configuration (in case I ever want to go back to stock), I stripped a small section of the insulation from the green wire and soldered the red wire to it. In my photo, I unbolted the resistor from the chassis to give me some extra room to work. I later reinstalled the resistor once the wires were connected. Once cooled, I wrapped everything up in electrical tape.
The black wire in the harness goes to ground, which I found on the passenger side on the chassis under the air intake scoop. The harness in this kit has a white wire as well, which I learned is used to turn off the bezels when the low beams are on. Since my bezels are wired up to the stock DRL wiring, they would automatically turn on and off with the handbrake and low beams, so the white wire was unnecessary.
Once the wiring issue was figured out and all connections made, I looped up all the excess wire neatly and zip tied everything together below the headlight assembly. I also wrapped up the connector ends for the resistor so they wouldn't get corroded from moisture. The bezels themselves are of good quality with very precise fitment - they snapped in accurately and had no gaps where they fit to the bumper. For some extra insurance against water ingress, I ran a bead of weatherproof adhesive around the LED lens strip to seal it. The LEDs are very bright and will be a much more visible DRL than the C-lights.
Here are the bezels turned off:
And here they are turned on:
Not bad of an outcome. I'm rather pleased with how they turned out and they are quite visible even in full daylight. Hope this thread is useful to anyone who plans to do such a mod or at least is wondering how the DRL wiring works. Once the wiring was figured out, the install itself was pretty easy to do.
This photo shows how I spliced the red wire for the included harness to the green power wire. I'm sure this is elementary for many of you modding veterans, but it was all new to me and took a bit of research on-line and on this forum to learn what I needed to disable the high beams and wire up the bezels properly.
To access the DRL resistor, I took off the front bumper. I'm pretty sure once can get access from under the car with the front end up on jack stands or a lift According to the wiring diagram I found:
http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/70977/pdf/serviceManual/075471_2015_WRX/G1190BEV1_1081.pdf
The green wire supplies 12v power to the DRL resistor and that power returns via the white/black wire and goes to the high beams. Unplugging the connector to the resistor kills the high beams' DRL function. To obtain the full 12v power for the bezels, but also retain the stock connector configuration (in case I ever want to go back to stock), I stripped a small section of the insulation from the green wire and soldered the red wire to it. In my photo, I unbolted the resistor from the chassis to give me some extra room to work. I later reinstalled the resistor once the wires were connected. Once cooled, I wrapped everything up in electrical tape.
The black wire in the harness goes to ground, which I found on the passenger side on the chassis under the air intake scoop. The harness in this kit has a white wire as well, which I learned is used to turn off the bezels when the low beams are on. Since my bezels are wired up to the stock DRL wiring, they would automatically turn on and off with the handbrake and low beams, so the white wire was unnecessary.
Once the wiring issue was figured out and all connections made, I looped up all the excess wire neatly and zip tied everything together below the headlight assembly. I also wrapped up the connector ends for the resistor so they wouldn't get corroded from moisture. The bezels themselves are of good quality with very precise fitment - they snapped in accurately and had no gaps where they fit to the bumper. For some extra insurance against water ingress, I ran a bead of weatherproof adhesive around the LED lens strip to seal it. The LEDs are very bright and will be a much more visible DRL than the C-lights.
Here are the bezels turned off:
And here they are turned on:
Not bad of an outcome. I'm rather pleased with how they turned out and they are quite visible even in full daylight. Hope this thread is useful to anyone who plans to do such a mod or at least is wondering how the DRL wiring works. Once the wiring was figured out, the install itself was pretty easy to do.
