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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!

So im trying to fix my car so i can get a tune for it because the fuel mix is a bit rich after installing some mods but I'm having some issues with the car and one of them is pretty serious. So i turn my car on in the morning, everything is fine mix runs from 14.2 -14.9. Drive anywhere and after turning it off and back on again within a few min the car turns on with mixture at 11.2! Now if i leave the car off for 30 min or more it turns on fine. What could this be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I bought the car with some mods already installed. The mods ive done are minor.i understand if the car runs rich and that is why i dont beat it. But that problem couldnt be related to tuning or could it? And besides im looking for feedback, not criticism.
 

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And besides im looking for feedback, not criticism.
You're welcome!

Here's my criticism too, at no extra charge:

1. You've not thanked him for his help
2. You've not listed your mods, so neither he nor anyone else can begin to give you more detailed advice.
3. You've presumed to specify how people should respond rather than be grateful anyone responded at all. All responses within the rules will stand. The rules are posted. You got the most useful response imaginable given the information -- or lack thereof -- you've provided.

Post your full mods list.
Post any CELs you've got.
Post the device you are using to read AFR, and how it's connected.

But that problem couldnt be related to tuning or could it?
Re-read the response you received -- the critical one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So i believe i wrote in my initial post that i was going to get a tune because the mix was rich. So basically what the other member mentioned was exactly what i wrote therefore not helpful. I thank you not for the un-asked sarcasm but for indicating what i had left out.

Subaru WRX 2004
Ej20 Stock internals
Sti pinks 565cc
IHI VF34
Cold Air Ram perrin with K&N free flow filter
Turbosmart Manual boost controller(soon to be replaced with MAC Boost Selenoid)
STI TMIC
Mishimoto Radiator
CoBB accessport(un-married until tune)
Turbo catback exhaust

SOON TO BE INSTALLED FOR TUNE:
Walbro 255LPH Fuel pump
Aeromotive Fuel rails and fuel pressure regulator.

My AFR is a AEM X series, i cant exactly explain how its hooked up. Its after the connection to the turbo catback.

I dont know what you meant by CELs, please explain.
 

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CEL's are check engine lights.

With out knowing what the previous owner tuned its hard to say. I would venture a guess that its either in the tune, or perhaps you have a leak somewhere.

Do you have any odd noises like hissing or the smell of exhaust in the cab?

You wrote specifically

"So im trying to fix my car so i can get a tune for it because the fuel mix is a bit rich after installing some mods"

This specifically says you installed mods, and those mods caused a rich condition. A simple, common, and likely issue is the fact those mods require the car to be tuned for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So i believe that the previous owner disabled CELs because the light doesnt turn on(i dont know how to re-enable). But when i scanned with my cobb it said PCV error and another error with a sensor. I cant remember the exact name. The PCV error its because the previous owner disconnected the pcv which i will reconnect as soon as i get the new one.

As to noises i do have a few that i would like to isolate but its impossible. For one i do hear my fuel pump keep priming for a minute after the car is on(dont know if its normal) and when i accelerate the car from the engine bay, i can hear a clicking noise on the top of the motor.

And finally smell, there is a smell of gas inside the car. I would dare say that it almost smells raw or very close. I did replace all my injector o rings because i had leakage on 2 of them.

The problem with the afr is only when i turn on my car right after turning it off and after driving the car the mix goes back to normal.

Thanks for the response
 

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I believe there was a TSB about raw fuel smell. I would google that as it has come up here multiple times.

clicking is typically not good. Is the car pulling timing?
 

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The TSB concerned fuel rails.

The parts on the car now make it necessary to remap the car anyway as noted.

I think more speculation isn’t likely to be fruitful. Given a choice I’d map the car and map data and
Go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I verified the fuel lines up front but they dont seem to have a leakage.

I'm a little lost in some terms like (is the car pulling timing?) And (map the car and data). Sorry for the questions and thanks.
 

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I verified the fuel lines up front but they dont seem to have a leakage.

I'm a little lost in some terms like (is the car pulling timing?) And (map the car and data). Sorry for the questions and thanks.
Pulling ignition timing to prevent knock. The Cobb should give you an option to log timing and dam. Also, what is the other sensor error.

What have you modified exactly since you bought the car, and what was on it when you bought it? Did the previous give you the access port or did you buy it? Have you done basic maintenance items like plugs and coils?

If I were in your shoes I’d write it off as a driver until you can verify the map loaded to the ecu and what that tick is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I bought the car with most previous mods. i basically installed the new air filter which was a cheap brand, bought the cobb and changed shifter bushings to kartboy and such. I changed spark plugs the 1st week i got it and coils themselves i have not changed. i currently have with me some parts to change such as timing kit with all pulleys and cogs, suspension (got it for free on raffle), the water pump and the walbro 255. i dont want to install the walbro yet because i fear that the leakage that might be happening gets worse. the slight clicking noise happens only when i revv it up and sounds at the top/front of the engine. Also if you could explain how to log the timings, im still novice as to using the cobb features. And forgot, spark plugs were NGk iridiums. The codes ill have to get again. Thanks
 

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If you just bought the accessport don’t do anything. If there is a tune in there it will remove it for one of cobbs off the shelf tunes that may or may not support your modifications.

You may actually contact Cobb and see if they offer an off the shelf tune that supports your parts and start there. Sadly I don’t know what is available for those years.

Another thing crossed my mind. If the car has had the tgv deletes done it can cause oddities at idle. Do you know if they have been deleted?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So i did install the cobb at first with a map corresponding with my setup but the solenoid for boost was bad so i uninstalled it. The solenoid is on its way so i can then flash the map but it did uninstall. Also i thought that tgv might have been deleted because its a "popular" mod here where i live but i would have to get my intake manifold out right?
 

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That’s probably your problem. Does it support your mods specifically injectors, intake, exhaust, and turbo?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The cobb asks for my specific mods to be able to flash the STI map. 565cc STI pinks, turbocatback, performance air filter etc.. New development, i hadnt noticed all codes that the cobb displayed.
P1491 PCV Function Problem
P0130 Front O2 Sensor Circuit
P0037 Rear O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit(Low input)
P0031 Front O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit (low input)

Is my oxygen sensor bad? or is it an electric problem?
 

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It is not clear your oxygen sensor exists.

I think I'm back to my original idea of mapping the car for the mods it has on it and going from there.
 

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It could be the sensor, could be the tune, could be a wiring harness issue, could be a vacuum or boost leak.

I would start by smoke testing the vacuum system and the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I never thanked you guys for the last response! So thanks. Ive been working with the car and found 2 shirts on the deicer and fog lights. O2 sensor is still bad and codes are persistent. Also noticed oxygen sensor cables were stripped a bit up top so i covered them but something tells me that the previous owner was messing with it. The lastest development i found was that a plug is disconnected and it had a transistor or a an electrical piece of some kind from side to side. I dont know what the plug is for thought. Ill be attaching a picture. The plugs is next to the factory boost solenoid to the right side of it.
 

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That was a resistor. There was a catalytic converter in the up pipe and a sensor associated with it. The previous owner removed the catalytic converter by replacing the up pipe, and the new pipe could not accommodate the sensor. So the previous owner inserted a resistor in the circuit to simulate the sensor for the ECU. This prevented a CEL.
 
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