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Discussion Starter #1
Wondering what people's opinions are for replacing the stock air filter on 2012 Rex. Not looking to do a cold air or SF intake quite yet, just new filter element. Figuring K&N element is the best way to go. Any thoughts or prior experience?

Any other quick mods that can be done without affecting any sort of warranty?
 

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rikkyb30 said:
Wondering what people's opinions are for replacing the stock air filter on 2012 Rex. Not looking to do a cold air or SF intake quite yet, just new filter element. Figuring K&N element is the best way to go. Any thoughts or prior experience?
Don't bother.

rikkyb30 said:
Any other quick mods that can be done without affecting any sort of warranty?
Window tint
Tires
 

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Well if you never change to a CAI or similar, you would get washability out of a K&N panel filter. But I would wait until my oe filter was past it before changing it to a K&N. All you are really getting is an significantly increased life.
 

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Well if you never change to a CAI or similar, you would get washability out of a K&N panel filter. But I would wait until my oe filter was past it before changing it to a K&N. All you are really getting is an significantly increased life.
^^ This is basically what I do also. Just wait until you need to replace it, and then spend a few dollars more to never have to replace it again.

Similar to brake rotors, when I *need* to replace them I go with cross drilled/slotted because of the heat dissipation that theoretically prolongs the lifespan (it sure did in my last car at least).
 

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Drilled/slotted brakes will lessen the life of pads however.

Also, oiled filters are annoying. Look into a non oiled replacement.
 

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Drilled/slotted brakes will lessen the life of pads however.
Good point. But it's a pita to take off all four wheels and rotors and go get them turned. Pads are easy! ...And one could probably make the case that less heat is not as hard on the pads. I warped the stock rotors in my last car because it obviously wasn't supposed to be driven like I wanted to.

I'm really not sure on the WRX pads & rotors - my car is only 7 days old at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Similar to brake rotors, when I *need* to replace them I go with cross drilled/slotted because of the heat dissipation that theoretically prolongs the lifespan (it sure did in my last car at least).
I believe most autocross clubs and track days don't allow drilled rotors because they're (even though probably only slightly) more likely to crack/break.
 

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I believe most autocross clubs and track days don't allow drilled rotors because they're (even though probably only slightly) more likely to crack/break.
Consider it noted!!
 

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Your stock paper filter already flows more air than your engine can use. Oiled filters are notorious for causing MAF issues. They also don't filter as well as paper filters, so they allow more crap into your engine, affecting the longevity and performance of your engine. Just stick with a paper filter.

Other mods you can do besides tint and wheels that won't affect your warranty:
Upgrade your brake fluid to racing spec (ATE or Motul)
Upgrade your brake pads
Change your axleback exhaust

Similar to brake rotors, when I *need* to replace them I go with cross drilled/slotted because of the heat dissipation that theoretically prolongs the lifespan (it sure did in my last car at least).
See below on lifespan of improperly cross-drilled rotors (i.e. drilled holes instead of cast holes).

Good point. But it's a pita to take off all four wheels and rotors and go get them turned. Pads are easy! ...And one could probably make the case that less heat is not as hard on the pads. I warped the stock rotors in my last car because it obviously wasn't supposed to be driven like I wanted to.
I've never turned rotors on any car I've owned. It's a total waste of time unless there's bad irregularities in your rotors (which is very rare). Just put on new pads and bed them.

The most common cause of warped rotors isn't from driving them really hard. It's from getting water on them when they're hot.

I believe most autocross clubs and track days don't allow drilled rotors because they're (even though probably only slightly) more likely to crack/break.
Not true. As long as you have adequate pad thickness they don't really care what rotors you're running. 99% of the drilled rotors people use are the ones that are drilled after the fact. This makes them MUCH more likely to crack, especially if used at a track. Auto-x doesn't make your brakes work that hard compared to a track btw. Ones like Brembo that have cast holes very rarely have issues, and usually those only happen when the cars are raced and not usually on club track days where you're not running for long periods or really heating up the rotors like you would in a true race, though I have seen it happen to a very few people on club track days.
 

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Thanx for the insight... Good stuff.
Other mods you can do besides tint and wheels that won't affect your warranty:
Upgrade your brake fluid to racing spec (ATE or Motul)
What are the benefits to this? Longevity? It wouldn't affect brake fade, would it?
 

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It will affect brake fade, as in, you'll have a lot less of it. Racing brake fluid has a higher boiling point and is less prone to creating bubbles in the lines as he fluid heats up. You wont stop faster, but your brakes will have more endurance under hard driving.
 

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The most common cause of warped rotors isn't from driving them really hard. It's from getting water on them when they're hot.
I've heard at one point that improperly/unevenly torqued lug nuts can also warp the rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I can't see that it would, but can anyone confirm that replacing brake fluid w something like ATE super blue wouldn't affect warranty.
 

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It won't affect your warranty to use different brake fluid.

As posted above, it improves the feel of the brakes under hard use, and also greatly reduces fade since it doesn't boil as easily.

That being said, I still got a spongy pedal at one point on my latest track day. It only happened once in my 2nd session on the track, but never again. Weird.
 

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The most common cause of warped rotors isn't from driving them really hard. It's from getting water on them when they're hot.

.
Actually, that is the ONLY cause to warping rotors. Riding the brakes, or frequently stopping hard causes the rotors to warp and can be repaired by resurfacing unless the damage is too severe.

Getting the brakes wet while very hot (braking through a puddle) causes "heat spots" on your rotor which are visible (they look like dots usually in a circle). Rotors with heat spots can not be repaired and at that point are ruined.

Warped rotors = left to right shaking while braking
Rotors with heat spots = inconsistent/not smooth braking. As if the front wheels were oval or you jab the brake pedal very quickly. No steering wheel vibration.

But to stay on topic, id say stick with the stock aircleaner until dirty. Then go aftermarket with a company of your choice.
 
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