STI rear endlinks like this?
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we've been doing the same thing, and have actually been running the prototypes on my car for about 3 months, but have run into a few issues that may lead to playing around with them some more.
1) they are going to be noisy. really noisy. torque them down to 50lbs to help with that some.
2) I really hope you are using extra long shanks on those. If you only have them in by a few turns they you need to thread them in some more.
3) you need a jam nut between the male and female end. yeah yeah I know it won't fall apart if both ends are bolted, but each end will turn indepently if you don't have them locked together with a jam nut. This can lead to premature wear.
4) you need spaces on either side of the spherical bearing at both top and bottom or your missing most of the point of having spherical bearings. If you're going to do it without spacers you may as well have just drilled a couple holes in a bar of steel and used that.
5) If those are not teflon lines you will want to look into getting some dust shields.
6) Make sure you use grade 8 or better bolts. We tried going with a pressed in stud config for the fronts we prototyped and tore them up really quick because they were nowhere near grade 8.
other than that those look really nice.
1) they are going to be noisy. really noisy. torque them down to 50lbs to help with that some.
2) I really hope you are using extra long shanks on those. If you only have them in by a few turns they you need to thread them in some more.
3) you need a jam nut between the male and female end. yeah yeah I know it won't fall apart if both ends are bolted, but each end will turn indepently if you don't have them locked together with a jam nut. This can lead to premature wear.
4) you need spaces on either side of the spherical bearing at both top and bottom or your missing most of the point of having spherical bearings. If you're going to do it without spacers you may as well have just drilled a couple holes in a bar of steel and used that.
5) If those are not teflon lines you will want to look into getting some dust shields.
6) Make sure you use grade 8 or better bolts. We tried going with a pressed in stud config for the fronts we prototyped and tore them up really quick because they were nowhere near grade 8.
other than that those look really nice.
Joined
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739 Posts
Thanks for the helpful input.
The shank is pretty long. Unfortunately, one is left hand turn and the other is right hand turn. It will be difficult to find a right hand turn nut. I was wondering about putting spacers. All I have is a washer. Maybe I'll use hex nuts as spacers like some of the endlink makers out there.
The shank is pretty long. Unfortunately, one is left hand turn and the other is right hand turn. It will be difficult to find a right hand turn nut. I was wondering about putting spacers. All I have is a washer. Maybe I'll use hex nuts as spacers like some of the endlink makers out there.
cboggess said:
Got new struts put in the rear on my STi to replace the defective ones (dealer work). Went home, parked car for the weekend since there was a hurricane. Moved car Monday after, heard popping noise, looked under, found endlinks bent much worse than in the pic. Dealer said I had been out getting airborn during the hurricane and the endlinks were NOT bent before. Eventually, the endlinks snapped in half and I got Perrin rear endlinks and will never go to the Madison Square Subaru dealer for service again.
Problems with endlinks are more common with mods but I had all factory everything (suspension and handling) at the time and mine still got screwed. Keep an eye on yours. It seems the factory ones aren't too terribly strong.
RN
Problems with endlinks are more common with mods but I had all factory everything (suspension and handling) at the time and mine still got screwed. Keep an eye on yours. It seems the factory ones aren't too terribly strong.
RN
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