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Discussion Starter #1
Ive been looking around and have been seeing different answers and replies so I want to see if I can get a legit answer from yall.

I am looking to purchase the Cobb Ap and a catless bellmouth downpipe. Will this run alright with my 2012 stock exhaust or do I need to get a catback exhaust before i purchase the downpipe?

Also, I will start another thread but maybe someone can answer here... Does anyone in Colorado have a catless downpipe? I am moving to golden next month and don't understand the crazy emission laws/sniffer vans yall have.
thanks
 

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I left my stock exhaust because I wasn't looking to increase the sound but still wanted the power of the stage 2. I don't think that I'll be pushing enough power in the near future to warrant the cost of a catback, the stock one should flow just fine. If I stumbled upon a good deal for one sure I'd pick one up.

Are you looking for your next power mod or just overall enhancement of your car? For me I'm going to add a short throw and bushings for a better feel, and then next year add an intake and re-tune. The mod bug is always around so take your time and do things slowly to fill the need haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I prob wont buy anything for a while after the Downpipe and Ap but just planning ahead. Overall I am pretty pleased with the look of the car if anything I would probably just get a lip kit but haven't found one i really like. I think the next mod would be the Cobb short ram intake just to make the turbo sound a lil louder. But i agree with you about leaving the stock exhaust on. I used to have a truck with a loud exhaust and after a while it sure does get annoying. Its pretty nice to be able to cruse on the highway without a rumble in your ear.

But I guess my question should have been what upgrade after the downpipe would give me the biggest performance boost?
 

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I guess my question should have been what upgrade after the downpipe would give me the biggest performance boost?

A real tune.. I was talking to a guy last night that went from the Cobb off the shelf stage 2 map to a real pro tune, he gained over 40whp and the power delivery was much smoother.
 

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if you have a good tune then yeah I would move onto the intake for WHP vs cost. I think after that go after fueling I.E the pump and injectors but don't take my word for it. I'm learning this stuff as I go along myself, I came from a completely different platform so I have to read a lot about a mod before doing it.
 

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Per my answer in your other thread, no you won't pass emissions with a catless DP, nor should you be running a catless DP due to the risks it introduces to your engine. Leaving your stock CBE will leave a little bit more restriction than you want in order to maximize the power you'll get, but not by much. You'll need that 2.5"-3" adapter to get a good fit between the two. The Cobb DP and one other (Borla maybe? again drawing a blank!) are the only ones that I know of that go down to 2.5" at the tail end so you don't need the adapter.

An intake isn't really going to get you any additional power, just sound. In fact it can cost you power if you don't get a cold air intake by sucking in hot engine compartment air. I'm a very anti-intake person in general, but I did end up getting one for my STI because I found one on here for an awesome price used from somebody. If you do want an intake, I'd definitely go for the AEM since that's made by the same company that makes SPT parts, it uses a dry filter so you won't get MAF issues, and it's a true cold air intake that fits in the fender well. The only other one I'd get would be the Cobb with the airbox that isolates it, but that's really expensive once you add in that airbox, and it has an oiled filter.

Have you read the sticky on first mods - what to do and what not to do? That really has all the info you need. In summary though, if I were you I'd change to DOT4 high performance/temp brake fluid (either Motul or ATE, and a full flush not just a replacement) and better pads. You could also put in some stainless brake lines to improve your pedal feel since you're going to need to drain the brake fluid anyway for the flush. What pads you go with really depends on how much you can deal with squealing. If you want to minimize squeal, then go with Hawk HPS+. If you can deal with a significant amount more squeal, then go with the Ferodo 2500 (I think that's the right model but I'm having a brain fart!).

That leaves you with just handling to address since you'll have done solid power and braking mods to get overall to a stage 2 kind of car. For suspension I'd go with strut tower braces (maybe) and sways to start. Some people don't think strut tower braces do a lot, but they definitely helped on my '04 STi. I don't know how much they help on the newer models, and I haven't been able to find the cheap ebay ones they offer for the older models for only $60-70 a set. I'd probably skip them and just do the sways. You can do endlinks too, but they're expensive. The stock ones will be ok for a while but will eventually fail due to the increased forces on them from the aftermarket sways. Personally I'm a fan of Eibach sways, but there's a few other high quality brands too like Whiteline, Cobb, and a few others.


if you have a good tune then yeah I would love onto the intake for WHP vs cost. I think after that go after fueling I.E the pump and injectors but don't take my word for it. I'm learning this stuff as I go along myself, I came from a completely different platform so I have to read a lot about a mod before doing it.
You need to learn more about these cars. ;) There's absolutely no point in doing the pump and injectors until you go to a turbo swap.
 

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interesting....are you referring to just 08+ with the injectors and pump? My buddy with his 05 STi upgraded both with his stock turbo after the suggestion of EFI who did his pro-tune. Do ours just flow a lot better to the point that we won't have to any modification even at the stage 2 level?

I am at stage 2 and my injector duty cycle is definitely fine and with in normal limits and I'm hitting 18.5 psi. Like I said still learning, I came from a mazdaspeed 6., I didn't even have an injector options!
 
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