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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I just drove a 2004 WRX from Richmond to Asheboro last night. I just bought it. Car ran great and pulled great in Richmond, but over the last 12 hours or so, I've been getting sputtering after a pull in gear and shifting into the next. The most recent issue was a 2nd pull (wot to 7000), easy, deliberate shift into 3rd, and a big sputter (not building boost) and the CEL flashed and went out. AP showed a PFFF code (P1491 is pcv) with no particular cylinder. What I'm wondering is, do I have a plug/plugs going out or coil pack/packs going? My guess is it's a spark issue, but I'm also super new to this platform. TYIA
326327
 

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Could be a number of things. However with that code I'm guessing leaks in the intake and or vacuum system.
 

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UPDATE had the guy I bought it off of call his tuner, appears it may be a case of bad gas. Apparently Exxon is a no go. I was completely unaware that these cars don't like Exxon/Mobil 93 and I filled up at an Exxon halfway through the trip yesterday. Currently running 50/50 Exxon Sunoco. Hopefully addressing this fixes the issue
 

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I wouldn't put all of your hopes on bad gas. Seems like a far fetched excuse from the seller. Hopefully that's the case, but if 93 gas is that iffy in your area you may want to consider going with a 91 tune?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I know the seller personally and have for 12+ years. I do trust him and he seems to trust his tuner. I'll see if this is the issue. If it's not, I'll start with plugs. Coils are less than 2 years old
 

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Bad gas would not cause that code.
 

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Anything in the pc system. Such as sensors or vacuum leaks
 

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All sensors seem to be good and I can't find any evidence of a vacuum leak. All the I/C plumbing looks good, recirc valve looks good, waste gate actuator hose looks good....and the car ran fine and pulled hard and consistently before a babied 3.5 highway drive with a fill up at an Exxon.

Edit and the pcv system is deleted
 

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Ok...'bad gas'...could be water in the fuel and that can come under the heading 'bad gas' ...take a sample and have it tested if you want to know for sure......but my first thoughts were spark plugs, head/head-gasket, timing belt jumped a tooth, fuel pump starting to stutter, dirty filter inside tank or elsewhere....or someone has used ethanol fuel in the car or added ethanol to the tank...it rots hoses.

Cars and mates Hmmmmmm!!......My brother bought two cars at various time from his mates...he then spent thousands fixing the cars but still trusted his mates; 'cuckoo...cuckoo,...cuckoo'. Forget it's your mate, look at the car and then perhaps realise why your mate was actually selling it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK!!!!! So, it's taken me a little while to get back to this because the title work was a pain in the dick. BUT! I ran out the old gas and changed from the daily 310hp tune to the 355hp track tune and did several WOT pulls with no break up or sputtering. No DTC's on the AP or check engine light!!! Appears it may have actually been bad gas 🤷‍♂️
 

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Ok...'bad gas'...could be water in the fuel and that can come under the heading 'bad gas' ...take a sample and have it tested if you want to know for sure......but my first thoughts were spark plugs, head/head-gasket, timing belt jumped a tooth, fuel pump starting to stutter, dirty filter inside tank or elsewhere....or someone has used ethanol fuel in the car or added ethanol to the tank...it rots hoses.

Cars and mates Hmmmmmm!!......My brother bought two cars at various time from his mates...he then spent thousands fixing the cars but still trusted his mates; 'cuckoo...cuckoo,...cuckoo'. Forget it's your mate, look at the car and then perhaps realise why your mate was actually selling it.
So he actually wasn't planning on selling initially. He was helping me look at STI's locally and I actually asked HIM if he'd consider selling. We were in the military together, years ago, and I really do trust him. His tuner on the other hand, I don't know from Adam
 

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It's a relief to see you are back on the road...presuming all works well in your lower power range. Perhaps draining the tank would have been a better choice to get rid of contamination. I don't know your car particularly well however there is, I am pretty sure, a drain plug on the RHS of the tank....but drain with fuel cap 'off'. I would then put a couple of gallons in the tank (after re-installing the plug)and go for a 10-20 kn drive on an average road, to get some occasional bump and swirl, then on arriving home and without delay, re-drain the tank. Presuming all Subarus have fuel pump in the tank....disconnect battery or remove pump fuse and start car until stalling...out of fuel.

Remove (carefylly the pump assembly. That will give considerable access to check what's inside the tank and condition of filter. You can syphon from there or drain tank and remove any debris or water ..Check hose condition in case someone has been using E10 Fuel. then re-assemble all....Replace any other fuel filter, not all Subarus have an extra filter, I believe, . Obviously it needs enough gas to get to the fuel depot but in the job, fill tank with reliable fuel. Filling tank does reduce condensation which...apart from 'add water for greater profit ' skull-duggery... is why underground fuel tanks get water polluted....best to fill say a day after a service station has refilled tanks better to never let your own tank go low.

Your trust is your own gift of course. Not everyone deserves it.
 

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Thats still not likely your problem. Thats a blow by sensor. You've either got a bad sensor or bad blowby.

I stand by that.
 
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