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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I knew it was a mistake. Back in May I ordered a KartBoy short shifter and some other parts from FastWRX. I decided against adding Kartboy and TIC shifter bushings because at that time my gear shift felt tight and nowhere near as bad as all those YouTube videos I’d watched. Now I have my own video:-


Yes, the shifter has developed “the slop”. I’m actually quite alarmed by how quickly it has deteriorated - literally over the last couple of weeks. Apart from what you can see in the vid, it now also rattles at higher speeds. I had a quick look under the car today to see if anything had gone astray and apart from some unwanted oil (not sure where that’s coming from), the shifter linkage looks to be intact, so I guess I’ll be getting those uprated TIC (or Torque Solutions) linkage bushings after all, as well as the KartBoy front and rear bushing combo. :rolleyes:
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One question. Since my wagon is a Hawkeye, it doesn’t have the riveted linkage found on earlier models, but one that bolts in. I’m therefore assuming that I can unbolt it to replace the four bushings without having to punch out those two pins that everyone has problems with??
 

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That's some impressive left-right slop, reminds me of driving school's hyundai. :ROFLMAO:

They mostly bolt in. Just need some grease. If you have trouble getting the halves to start, run a blade at 45 degrees to inside edge of bushing very lightly. Tiny burrs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the tips! (y)

Yeah, it's not so much fun changing gear at the moment. The rate of deterioration in particular made me think that something had broken. Time to order some more parts!
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I've read that removing the x-member gives you more access for the linkage so yeah, I'm planning to have a crack at the x-member bushes at the same time as the linkage, and of course the Whiteline trans mount insert too. Since it's my daily driver, I'm going to set aside a weekend just in case I run into problems! (y)

One question regarding the KartBoy x-member bushings, I’ve read about having to modify them by cutting/shaving off the protruding “nibs” on one or two of the four, identical bushings to replicate the “male/female” fit of the OEM bushings. Is this correct?
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Regarding pricing, Cusco and Beatrush parts are still expensive over here, though I'm probably going to treat myself to some Cusco sway bars for Christmas. Unfortunately, US brands (KartBoy, TIC, Whiteline, etc) are really difficult to find here, at least for me and my level of Japanese, so online is the easiest and often cheapest way to get them. Suppliers like FastWRX and Rallysportdirect have so much stock that if I buy several parts, they go in the same box with little additional cost. That's how I justify it to myself, anyway. Plus, and this is a big one for me, I want to read the reviews and write-ups on these parts before I buy them and for that I want English, not Japanese. I can get by in Japanese conversation but reading is another matter. Also, if things go wrong with a supplier, then I want to be able to converse with them in our common language. So overall, I don't mind paying for the occasional box of goodies from the States! :)
 

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i can't answer your question. but i found a video you might be interested in watching / related to your project:

especially 3:45 into the video it will help a lot

i started to change my shifter last weekend on my 2012 STi project car, and gave up i could not get enough access to the linkage parts.
but this video is the key to success for me haha. i think it will help you since your car is daily driver!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the link. Yeah, the more I look into this, the more I think I'm going to remove the x-member before attempting the linkage. At least then I can change the x-member bushings and install the Whiteline insert before tackling the dreaded roll pin/spring pin!!!

This just arrived in the post - the last piece of the puzzle!! (y)
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got my shifter all installed today finally in my '12 STi hatch. the one that came out (installed incorrectly by prev owner) was a kartboy. trans has damage from that shifter installation fail, so i didnt want to get the trans fixed until i had the shifter correct. they had the U-joint upside down and rev lockout cable was too short or something weird. it's all in the trash lol.

i even have reverse lockout now! :) and i can go right into 5th and 6th no issues!

i installed an actual bonaide subaru sti short shifter
C1010FG600​
Sti Short Throw Shifter -Sti​
$349.58​
pricey, but my problems are gone
 

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I've read that removing the x-member gives you more access for the linkage so yeah, I'm planning to have a crack at the x-member bushes at the same time as the linkage, and of course the Whiteline trans mount insert too. Since it's my daily driver, I'm going to set aside a weekend just in case I run into problems! (y)

One question regarding the KartBoy x-member bushings, I’ve read about having to modify them by cutting/shaving off the protruding “nibs” on one or two of the four, identical bushings to replicate the “male/female” fit of the OEM bushings. Is this correct?
View attachment 334020
Regarding pricing, Cusco and Beatrush parts are still expensive over here, though I'm probably going to treat myself to some Cusco sway bars for Christmas. Unfortunately, US brands (KartBoy, TIC, Whiteline, etc) are really difficult to find here, at least for me and my level of Japanese, so online is the easiest and often cheapest way to get them. Suppliers like FastWRX and Rallysportdirect have so much stock that if I buy several parts, they go in the same box with little additional cost. That's how I justify it to myself, anyway. Plus, and this is a big one for me, I want to read the reviews and write-ups on these parts before I buy them and for that I want English, not Japanese. I can get by in Japanese conversation but reading is another matter. Also, if things go wrong with a supplier, then I want to be able to converse with them in our common language. So overall, I don't mind paying for the occasional box of goodies from the States! :)
Can't say for sure for your model year but you might have to cut them. The ones I used had one protrusion and one recess on each of the 4 bushings. The ones from Whiteline have 2 with protrusions and 2 with recesses.
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Whiteline & superpro are australian brands & I think there's something close to a FTA between the two countries so you might be able to buy direct from aus retailers.

Weekend is a good call, especially if you are using jack stands & dealing with roll pins. If you can access it from the top, spray some PB Blaster or Aerokroil on those pins everyday for a week before you tackle them. And get a big hammer and roll pin punch set. Small screwdrivers and mallets won't cut it for rusted roll pins.
 

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i plan on fixing up my trans crossmember setup also.
i ordered this for that:
D1040FE000​
Sti Rod, Pitching Stopper​
$49.82​
1​
$49.82​
D1010FE000​
Sti Transmission Mount, 6-Speed M/T​
$74.36​
1​
$74.36​
B4100FG000​
Sti Trans Cross-Member Bushing Kit​
$24.51​
1​
$24.51​

those are Group N subaru parts
the last one has something similar to silver scooby's picture but some other parts i dont even recognize lol

linking for the pictures (i purchased above through subaruonlineparts.com):
 

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i plan on fixing up my trans crossmember setup also.
i ordered this for that:
D1040FE000​
Sti Rod, Pitching Stopper​
$49.82​
1​
$49.82​
D1010FE000​
Sti Transmission Mount, 6-Speed M/T​
$74.36​
1​
$74.36​
B4100FG000​
Sti Trans Cross-Member Bushing Kit​
$24.51​
1​
$24.51​

those are Group N subaru parts
the last one has something similar to silver scooby's picture but some other parts i dont even recognize lol

linking for the pictures (i purchased above through subaruonlineparts.com):
The first & 3rd options were pretty useless. I returned the cross-member bushings right at the dealer counter because of how soft they were and went for urethane ones. The pitch stop felt better than stock in hand but made no difference at all. The 30$ whiteline inserts made a bigger difference. Trans mount was a nice upgrade & has held up very well without any extra NVH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the info guys and congrats @22Rex_Red on the shifter install. One benefit of having a 5-speed is that I don't have to worry about the reverse lock-out! (y)

That's a good call on spraying the pin for a few days before trying to remove it, particularly as I'll only be using front jack stands. I also only have WD-40 to hand, so will wriggle under there and use that. On the subject of that roll-pin, can anyone confirm the part number as I guess I should replace it with a new one while I'm there. Assuming I can get the old one out, of course!!! I thought it was 051903180 but judging from the picture below, 633046020 looks to be the one:-
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Subaru's parts catalog lists the 633... for impreza/wrx starting from 2008. The other one, 051..., is listed for wrx from 2004-06 and then again from 2015-21.

I can ask the dealer's parts counter here if you want. Need the model year and trim and approx location of the roll pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks SS! It's a 2005 JDM WRX Sports Wagon (Hawkeye, NOT Blobeye) / Model code: GGA / Trim code: B20

I've also seen another possible part number beginning with 35083, just to confuse things!! You can see the location of the pin in the top left of the first STi service manual pic posted by Red above. (y)
 

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Parts guy said some of the changes came to USDM cars a bit late so 2006 USDM wagon parts should be more or less correct for JDM 2005.

You were right, the roll pin is part #633046020 according to parts catalog. It goes to different pages depending on whether you filter by car or search part # directly.

I'd recommend replacing all the bolts, nuts, washers & cotter pins you will touch given the car's age & the likelihood that it has seen snow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks SS - very much appreciated! I had a parts-fitting window of opportunity this weekend but am now heading off for a postponed-bmx race (my other hobby) instead. At least that gives me time to order that pin and some of those bolts. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Quick update! This arrived yesterday:-
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And the other day I was browsing in a used tools shop when I found these threaded rods. Since I don't have any punches, I thought I might be able to use one of them to knock out the pins.
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A bit ghetto I know but I tried them out today on the new pins. Held them in a vice and there was no movement until I sprayed some WD-40 on there, then slowly I was able to hammer out the inner pin. That at least gives me some hope when I come to tackle the ones on the car!
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