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Discussion Starter #1
I dont know what happend or what caused my now existing issue with my sti. I cant get a break...if you guys remember b4 with my blown turbo, it was exactly that, bearing spun, screwed up internally with bent fins. I had the turbo replaced...but had a CEL still, comes out as a Cam sensor or something like that. I had an apt to get it checked out at the dealer on monday. Meanwhile my car is back to stock and has been since b4 the turbo was replaced. Car was running mostly normal since new turbo(vf39) accept for seemed to have a loss of power, and not hitting even 13.5 psi. But then again ive been trying to baby it for the time beeing. Anyway, had it back almost a week when last night, a tremendous discusting rattle/grind came out of no where when i accelerated, and it even was a slight light acceleration...and you can understand, this reallllly concerned me...but followed not even 20 sec later with a complete shut out of the engine. Managed to pull it to the side of the road, and tried restart it...IT WONT START. it doesnt turn over. I have no idea what happened or where to start to wonder whats wrong. All i know is im having one prob after another and i just want the car running normal like it was when i first got it.
any thoughts or suggestions?:confused:
ryan
 

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noise coming from the front or the back?

the engine just shut off or was there a pop/boom/bang?

when you turn the key to start it, do you hear a rattling?

the more descriptive you are, the better we can attempt to diagnose...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
happasaiyan said:
noise coming from the front or the back?

the engine just shut off or was there a pop/boom/bang?

when you turn the key to start it, do you hear a rattling?

the more descriptive you are, the better we can attempt to diagnose...
You c heres the problem, it started, happened, and ended so quick i couldnt figure too much out quick enough.
It didnt sound like it was coming from the turbo area...by the time i put my window down to listen for whatever, the car stalled and died and that was the end of it...the whole sherade may have lasted maybe 15 sec. There was no boom or bang, infact i didnt even realise my car had stalled. thats the weird part. When you turn the key to start it it just sounds like a constant attempt to turn...but never gets even close to turning.
Now the dealer called me and the worse part is yet to come...it hasnt been diagnosed yet but from the sound of it, it seems like its def something serious internaly that will consist of new engine or something close in expense. And even know my car is stock now, it wasnt in the past and that is being taken into consideration. But hopefully SOA will help me as much as poss, and if not...i guess im reallly screwd. Ill keep you guys posted.
ryan
 

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afpdl said:
Simple question does the engine have any oil in it?
oh good god I hope so.
 

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No seriously i know a few people who have gotten oil changes and the shop doesnt tighten somthing or the o ring on the oil filter isnt there and they lose all their oil and the engine seizes. Ive seen it happen.
 

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Just a thoght...

When you pull the Oil dipstick out are there any metal shavings on it? Any temp gauge lights come on before it seized?

Happened in 96 with my new Grand AM. 6 hours into a road trip I noticed my radiatior was running extremely hot. Pulled into the next rest stop a mile down the road. While turning into a parking place the car died out and wouldn't start again. Problem was the Oil pump went (had 1400 miles or so on the car) engine wasn't getting oil and siezed. The metal shavings in the oil were from engine internals (can't remember if it was pistons, rods, or bearings).

Just a thought to look for.

Coop
 

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jeez... that really sucks .....

I hope it isn't to serious ...
 

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so what is the next step for you ray?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
tacomaboy138 said:
so what is the next step for you ray?
I dont know guys, not trying to make anyone feel bad for me or get any simpathy or nothing, but this is all just so frustrating. It seems my cars getting fixed more than i have it now a days. I dont know if its my fault or a mechanical error i had no control over yet, so im not pointing any blame until after the diagostic on monday, i just dont know where to go anymore, or where from here atleast. I just want the car back to how it ran day 1. But new engine installed is like 7000. Now would be a good time to wish i was rich. Anyway, hopefully its not that serious, but its looking that way
keep ya all posted
ryan:(
 

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if i were you, i would take my car somewhere else to get fixed. i really dont think the engine is toast. if your car will crank but not turn over, something is missing.

your car needs 3 things to get going. air, fuel and spark. youll always have enough air to at least start your car. have them check the fuel pump, lines, and fpr. have them check your plugs, wires, your ecu, and your electrical connection to the ecu.

if there is no noticable damage, then something else seems to be the problem. if your engine seized, i dont think you would be able to crank the engine....
 

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ps- personally IMHO, the dealer realized you are driving a car that isnt under warranty anymore and can now do whatever they want, and you would have to pay....i hope for your sake, that isnt the case.
 

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Let me buy you a beer to cry in and offer an argument. It could be that the turbo dying sucked the oil out of your engine. In that case the original HONORED warranty claim is the Root Cause for the crank bearing starvation. I work in the truck industry and "Root Cause" is a BIG buzz word for warranty claims. Use it...
 

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I recall asking you if the dealer had taken the motor out to look for additional damage -- something caused the turbo to fail in the first place (and I still maintain an mal-functioning aftermarket BOV with a car only running 17.5 max doesn't add up to your failure) -- I don't recall you saying the dealer took the heads off to look for more damage or check the oil for metal shavings? Did this happen?

A small section of a valve may have come apart, or retainer or numerous other internals that could get processed thru the combustion chamber and/or into your oil system. Doesn't take many metal shavings to destroy oil pump gears & a motor. Seeing that the car only made 13.5 lbs of boost after the new turbo, then you clearly have a more serious problem. And, you should have taken the car back to the dealer immediately -- not waited.

If the motor doesn't even crank (i.e. turn the key and nothing but you do have electrical power) then that is a good sign it has seized and/or something is keeping the crank from rotating.

Sure sounds to me like your dealer is not being very thorough and jumped to conclusion before finding the true cause of your turbo failure.

Again, I'm not picking a side, but if a Dealer is going to deny warranty because of an aftermarket BOV, then they BETTER make sure (without a doubt) that the BOV is what caused the turbo failure.

What I would do is bring a lawyer (one familiar with this type of situation) with you to the dealership when/if the dealer claims the BOV caused more damaged than they initially diagnosed. It may cost you $300 for an hours time from the Lawyer, but that could save you $10,000+ on a new motor IF the real cause was a failure in a Subaru component.

Rob.
 

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Hey I have a solution. Check out if your state has a lemon law. If it does, return it...they should give your all your money or get them to exchange it for a new one. If that doesn't work...call the main Subaru headquarters, and complain your ass off. I'm sure your car is only a few months old..and still under "warrenty."

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
well its monday and no new news yet. Dealer didnt get startd till after lunch...so i prolly wont hear anything till tomorrow. Im thinking i might have a solution to the cause, but it prolly is VERY far reaching. but it is a thought none the less. Since my turbo went, and a peice of the fin broke off and was never found...its possible it may have found its way and got lodged between the piston and the cylinder and thus freezing the engine...thus shutting it off and not being able to restart...just a long shot thought. But there was only a little less that a week between the turbo replace and engine seize. Ill keep posting
ryan
 

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If a piece broke off of the compressor it would have to be small enough to make it through the IC core which is a tight fit. But, even the smallest piece of metal in the combustion chamber could probably reek havoc.
 
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