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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone - I've been a lurker for a while here but this is my first post. I've got a limited understanding of the components and the issue, but I will learn quickly.

TL;DR I have a 2015 CVT WRX. After engine noise this weekend, took car to dealer. They say I broke a rod bearing. I had a 91 octane map installed using Cobb Accessport but that voided the warranty. Repair estimate $9000 from dealer. Looking for options and answers.

Here's the longer story. I've got a 2015 WRX CVT, with one mod which is the Cobb Accessport with a 91 octane fuel map. This weekend I took a road trip to camp about 2 hrs away and refueled in a small town. After refueling with 91 octane I noticed a sign next to the handle that said it was non-oxygenated fuel. Before even starting the car, I googled wth that meant and from what I could tell, the engine could burn this as well as "normal" fuel. Car sat for about 1.5 days. Driving back home on Sunday, I was driving hard, passing a lot on a country road, breaking then accelerating out of corners - nothing out of the ordinary, but was definitely pushing the car repeatedly. No warning light or CEL. After about an hour, I exited to get food and heard a rapid metallic clanging or knocking sound. I didn't check temp but wish I did. Stopped for about 30 minutes to eat.

After eating, started up the car again and the knocking sound was still there - I noticed it varied directly with the RPM. Shut off the car and plugged in the Accessport which doubles as ODB II sensor, and started logging. When starting up the car a second time, it finally threw a CEL and locked itself in mode - the "sport" CVT mode, blinking the and the cruise control icon. After reading the manual, I understood that the blinking cruise control was basically telling me to drive slowly and put very little load on the engine. Since it was stuck in and I knew that would put undue load on the engine, and since I was concerned about the Accessport's map potentially being related, I shut off the car, reset the codes, and re-flashed the ECU back to the stock map. Before doing so I recorded these two codes from the engine: P0300 and PFFFE

After the re-flash, I was able to switch back out of and into the more economical mode. I then turned on data logging on the Accessport and started driving back home, real slowly. I kept it below 2000 RPM the whole way back, about 1.5 hours. It occasionally recorded a misfire on the gauges, and I haven't yet looked at the recorded logs.

I dropped the car off at the dealer yesterday, and today they said they recorded engine calibration that was not stock, so no warranty coverage. I'm not surprised by this, since it's true. Here's what the guy said was wrong (after I said I'm not too familiar with all the engine parts):

The knocking noise is a broken/bad bearing on a connecting rod which connects the piston to the shaft. After reading up on some diagrams, it sounds like this is the connecting rod bearing. He also said when this is damaged, it can cause additional damage to other surrounding parts. They recommended replacing the short block, and that they might be able to reuse undamaged parts. Actual estimate range was $7500 - $11000 (if cylinder heads needed to be replaced).

I've had the Accessport installed since early 2016, so I doubt there's any sort of warranty with Cobb.

Here's what I'm thinking for my options, but please share any other thoughts, plans, or slams if you must:

1. Get another estimate - I know of a few highly-recommended mechanic shops in the area (Minneapolis, MN)
2. Learn to rebuild an engine myself (and find tools/space)
3. Sell the car as-is and cut my losses
4. See if Cobb or a tuner shop would like to examine the engine anyways

Also what the heck - was it the non-oxygenated fuel that screwed the car?

Thanks for reading - and for any advice or ideas!
 

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Look into NF Performance. They're local to you. If you're not going to get anything from the dealership in terms of assistance, I would trust their shop over that dealership.
 

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In my experience rod bearings are usually from oil issues. Lack of oil or old oil and excess load.

I would hit up the shop ej recommended and see what they have to say.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
In my experience rod bearings are usually from oil issues. Lack of oil or old oil and excess load.

I would hit up the shop ej recommended and see what they have to say.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
That's interesting (oil). I was following the recommended oil change schedule in terms of miles but I drive infrequently so it had been over 5 months since the last change.

I'll contact NF too. Thanks to both of you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Look into NF Performance. They're local to you. If you're not going to get anything from the dealership in terms of assistance, I would trust their shop over that dealership.
Do you have a phone number for them? I tried emailing last night and calling today (763-205-6760 must be an old number) without luck yet.

Thanks!
 

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nchrysler said:
Do you have a phone number for them? I tried emailing last night and calling today (763-205-6760 must be an old number) without luck yet.

Thanks!
I don't have any information for them. Anything I provided would be from Google.
 
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