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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just purchased a bone stock 06 wrx wagon over the weekend, a day later got a check engine light. Great. After checking for the code it comes up as p1410. I have done a lot of research and understand what is happening. I've read that you can do the delete and it works. But I've also read that if the valve is closed you are able to pull the relays and fuses so it doesn't get stuck open.

So on my way home from work today, check engine light is on and cruse control is flashing. After stopping and filling up my tank, the lights go off. So I get home and pull the fuses out. Will this fix my problem? Or do I still need to do the delete? How do I know if the valve is open or closed? Couldn't find much detail on this area so any experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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It has been several years since I looked into this intensively, but I think you might be OK with that. It only opens for a little while during cold starts. You had the car warmed up and it had cycled as closed to clear the CEL so it should still be closed. I forget what cels I saw after pulling a relay for testing purposes back then, but you will have some. My question is whether the stuck open code you got will still show, as I think it should if it were stuck open. Regardless, an opensource cable & ECUFlash will download the car's map, and you can edit it in Romraider and upload it back. Getting all the hardware "changed out" on an '06 Forester was extremely fiddly and tentative, annoying, and back breaking without removing the manifold. One idea would be to hack saw the line and feel for any flow to make sure it is closed. If not however, as I recall that would make you put the plate at the block end near the uppipe and that will take serious work. But if it is stuck open and not blocked off it is no good at all!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So if it is now closed and I pulled the relay and fuse, in thoery it shouldn't try to open and work right? Am I able to leave it this way and do a reflash or do I still need to do the delete?
 

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Yes theoretically. It will not try to open, but the trick is to make really sure it is closed. You can monitor the soft lines as that is where you would get hot exhaust melt through leading to potentially dangerous conditions with CO in the cabin from under the hood at rest etc., plus it shouldn't run right with it stuck open and I'd suspect it would show up in a log (same openport cable with romraider logger). Note there is an important sensor in there, I want to say it is the atmospheric pressure one, and you have to have that one plugged in so it can be read. If you get a cel for that it will screw up and not be able to calculate the relative boost etc. and run ****ty. If you get that CEL you did it wrong and fix it. I.e. leave the valve in and plugged in just pull the fuse and relay, even if you "delete" with plates.
 

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Edit - now that I think about it, if you are going to cut a line to check that it is closed be sure it is on the downwind side of the valve. I don't remember what line that is, might not be the hard line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Awesome thanks! I pulled the relay and fuse when the light went off the other day. The next morning it was on again. I suspect it's throwing more codes now that it's completely not working. Going to have to take it to the auto parts store and get it read again today after work.
 

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You should check the codes. You need this cable to fix them (and a laptop) -

EvoScan 1.3U Universal USB Datalogging and Reflashing Cable

Don't get a Chinese knock off of the 2.0 cable your ECU is more expensive.

BTW, with that cable you can check your own codes too with LearningView (free). You can also monitor your learned timing IAM &A/F learning, flash stage maps for modifications, do full logs, and even tune your car with your own map edits if you want to learn how to go that far. It is the single best investment for any WRX that was supported.

With the cable, download the map with ECUFlash. We can walk you through editing it in 5 min.

Don't leave the CELs on - they can mask an important one. I recently had a gas cap code (with a new cap) that masked my front O2 sensor code that decided to blow at the same time after 13 years, which is not good.
 
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