First off we'll remove the intercooler to make room. If you haven't already installed Samco (or others) ic hoses now is the perfect time. To remove, you'll need to remove two 12mm bolts on the BOV, two 12mm bolts holding the ic down, two hose clamps at the throttle body hose, one hose clamp on the ic hose (unerneath the ic- where it connects to the turbo), three hoses on the ic- give it a slight twist and voila it will come right off
Next we need to prepare the oe pipe for removal. Remove the five hoses and note their positions (I marked them, but didn't really need to), remove the bolt that attaches the pipe to the manifold (12mm I believe), remove the hose clamp on the turbo end of the pipe, you also need to remove the hard oil line pointed out in the pic- first before you remove the bolt, and REPLACE the gasket w/ a new cooper gasket so you don't leak power steering fluid! You'll also need to remove the accordian piece- two hose clamps.
You'll find the oe piece won't come out in one piece (w/o removing the mainiflod), thus two hose nipples need to be removed- tall one in rear (#5)
and the one on the side towards the front (#3)- a hack saw blade worked swiftly. With these removed, the oe piece will come right out.
Now your ready to slide the new piece in, not too bad as its rubber- still takes a little finessing. Attach the end to the turbo and secure w/ hose clamp (put hose clamp on first, not like me trying to get it on after ). Attach all the hoses you removed. You may have trouble w/ hose #4, as my Samco piece came w/ too large of a nipple- it took lots of work getting that hose on (I've contacted Samco about it). Now put the oi line bolt back in, torque it down snug to where the previously scribed marks line up. Reattach the accordian piece, this takes a little doing as the Samco end is slightly larger than the oe end (told em about this too).
The finsihed product (oh yea, I figured while I had the ic off I'd touch it up w/ a little paint)
hey im gonn buy a new inlet pipe for my 02 wrx. the oe pipe was already missing number 3 and 5 nipples and i was wondering if you could help me out and tell me what hoses are supposed to go there. thank you i would appreciate all the help i can get
Guys, I have reread this thread like a million times now.
I am going to post a new thread on the "how-to" of easily changing ALL the hoses in the engine bay over to Samco's product. I will keep it simple, small images of each piece, and how to systematically remove and install the hoses without mistaking one for another.
I will also do a little write-up regarding the amazingly annoying BOV/BPV return hose. Samco's piece is only useable with the OEM valve, or those built to replicate it. The 45 degree dogleg is not accounted for on almost every adtermarket BOV. I realize I am going to get sent to the "BIG WAPshhhh thread", but please realize this is just a small issue, and should be a part of the How To made for all of Samco's hoses... hint: a 45 or 90 degree Silicone elbow in 1" ID with a 1" Aluminum hose coupler/joiner makes a smooth and durable matching link between the BPV outlet and the intake tract.
As I said, pics and a write-up. Everything will arrive in the next week, starting tomorrow (IC hoses). I am pretty happy to be trying this, what with the amazing reviews you all gave to Samco.
OK, everything is here EXCEPT for the parts I need to do the intercooler properly. I need an elbow and a coupler I ordered. Did you know that if you order a piece for a Samco kit that is an elbow or adapter, they want to know why, and they make it to the ID and OD of the hose it couples to! Cool. The elbow I need is for the BPV I have. I don't know why it's a whole thread to itself, but spring w/13 pounds, it is just a BPV like the stock one, but there's no elbow to the hose connected to it. I got a sleeve and hose with the same dimensions as the BPV return hose. At any rate, that will be here some time this coming week, and the installation will get a load of pictures. It is getting cold, and this isn't getting easier.
Samco stopped sending the JDM EJ20/25 kits to the US as the standard ancillary kit. We now get a USDM kit with power steering lines instead of brake booster lines. Same number of hoses in the kit, just two pieces which are useful, instead of flooding eBay with two hoses we can't use. The power steering lines are like the rest of Samco's stuff, glass smooth inside, tough like a tank on the outside, and purty colors.
I also think it is redundant and insulting to the present writeups to include how to install a radiator or intercooler hose kit. Use good hardware. That's my only extreme recommendation. The connections are only as good as what is keeping it together, so you can have a BnP radiator and intercooler, and if they are bandclamped with hardware-store air conditioning clamps, you are not getting the solid and airtight connections you want.
When these pics are uploaded I will probably be able to show you where those bandclamps are a bad thing. There's a couple of places where we are stuck w/ stock clamps, but they are spring-steel, have no teeth, and are smooth, so I feel safe using those where needed (wastegate capillary lines/boost control solenoid sensor line/restrictor-to-T line).
What improvements have I noticed:
The idle sits at 500rpm dead. It sits there and sits there at 500rpm. It doesn't bounce, there's no rock, no twist. It used to rumble and shake, and I don't know where or what I did, but that went away. It spools up and makes max boost earlier. I don't know how major this improvement is on paper, but in the seat, it is crisper, the silence of idle is made more apparent by the jet-engine sound of take-off. Silicone is not a silencer like rubber. It does not deform like rubber either, and air passage is more uniform, since it does not expand with increase in pressure as easily, either.
The engine runs cooler. I can blame this on 2 flush and fills of the coolant system in 2 months. The coolant is brilliant neon, no dirt in it. I think having it this clean makes it function slightly more efficiently, that or the Winter coming is just forcing water temps down... IDK, it's like 4 degrees below what it was.