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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well my EBC Green Stuff pads have officially hacked my rotors (which I expected) so I definitely need new ones. The rears are still ok, so I was thinking of just picking up some stoptech slotted rotors for the fronts, and leaving the EBCs in there (There's roughly half the pad still there). Is there any reason (ie grooves, etc.) That I should skip this and just go for a full Stg 2 setup or something, and change the pads, etc. all together?

edit : by full brake kit I mean a Stoptech Stage 2 or equiv. not a BBK
 

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Joe,

If you have the money I would say go with a full brake kit. If you are not going to be doing any type of racing (track events, auto-x, etc.) I don't think you will need to upgrade the brakes that much.

Do you have any future plans to do any hp mods to the car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, the Stoptech Stage 2 is the absolute maximum I would be doing. There's a good chance I might do some type of event at some point, probably an Auto-X or two...and although I've said 1.2 million times that I'm not doing any major mods, the Cobb Stage 2 Accessport looks better everyday. I'd say there's a decent chance I'll up the power at some point.

Money is the major issue as I just did a service interval, and I'm more wondering if its ok to just upgrade the rotors and leave the pads I have on there. If I just upgrade rotors now I'll eventually get lines and fluid anyway, as I'm still trying to do upgrades with the Brakes->Suspension->power :D
 

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i upgraded rotors and pads, and got some increased braking, but i think the real results come with calipers w/ more clamping force.

WRC Obsessed has the subaru 4 pots, and the difference is night and day.

dR
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah...I've had a ride in his rocketsled. :D

The Suby 4-pots would probably be more than I need, I'm just looking to upgrade as I replace things...
 

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From what I have read in my search for brake upgrades, a really good rotor will help you more then a subaru 4 pot caliper. I am sort of in the same situation as you, looking for a good brake upgrade but nothing huge as I won't need it. I do plan on doing several auto-x's this summer, and hitting up the track once. But I think a good rotor upgrade and good pads, lines, and fluid will be more then enough for me. Here is what I am looking at right now.

Rotors - DBA 5010, These are probably the best oem replacement rotors you can get, they increase the size by 1mm x 1mm, not a lot but still nice. Plus they have Aluminum centers, to reduce heat at the hub, which is really good. They are also slotted rotors, which is a plus. The downside, cost, about 500 bucks for the front pair, but once again, probably the best oem replacement rotors you can get. DBA says if you don't do much real racing the 4000, or even 650's may be better suited for you.

Pads - Not 100% sure here, but so far I have heard a lot of good things about Carbotech Bobcats, and Ferodo pads, MRT seems to like the Formula Ferodo's for street use, although they seem hard to find.

As for lines and fluid, Goodrige SS lines should work fine, and for fluid, Motul RBF 600 or ATE Super Blue seem to be very popular choices.
 

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I'd switch out the pads but thats just because I haven't heard much (maybe anything) good about the EBC pads on our cars. I wouldn't go with the Stoptech stage 2 kit if money is tight since you don't need new rear rotors. In your case I think that the DBA 5000 series would be overkill. You should be fine with the stoptech rotors or the DBAs that are about $200 a pair for the front (don't get the drilled ones). You might also want to look into cryotreated OEM rotors or maybe even just normal OEM rotors if you don't care about the looks of slotted rotors.

Big Sky and I (and probably some other people) have been running the Ferodo DS2500s and have been very happy with them. Big Sky ran his at Portland International Raceways with no problems and mine held up pretty well at Pacific Raceways (near Seattle). They work great on the street although they aren't as quiet as stock. Most upgraded pads won't be though. The noise isn't bad though.

I also use the ATE Superblue fluid. The temperature ratings on it aren't quite as high as the Motul, but its about half the price and the blue color makes it really easy to flush your system. They also make another fluid that performs exactly the game but is more of a gold color so you can easily flush out the blue. I think theres also a Valvoline fluid that is cheaper and easier to find that will probably be fine for street and auto-x use.
 

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Good comments driggity.

I did some quick research on costs of the parts that will probably suit you the best in my opinion, so take it for what its worth.

DBA 4000 series rotors ~$250
Ferodo 2500 pads ~$150
SS Lines ~$100
ATE Super Blue ~$25

= 525 dollars

A little cheaper then the Stoptech Stage 2, and better parts in my opinion (of course it doesn't include new rear rotors and pads, but you don't really need those)

This is what I might do, unless I decide to go with the dba 5010 rotors, then add $250 :)
 

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KanosWRX said:
DBA 4000 series rotors ~$250
Ferodo 2500 pads ~$150
SS Lines ~$100
ATE Super Blue ~$25
I got my Ferodos for $111 and my ATE super blue for $10 from www.raceshopper.com (you'll only need one bottle). Shipping is additional but it wasn't too much. Very helpful and prompt service too. If you use them tell them that Drakos sent you.
 

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driggity said:
I got my Ferodos for $111 and my ATE super blue for $10 from www.raceshopper.com (you'll only need one bottle). Shipping is additional but it wasn't too much. Very helpful and prompt service too. If you use them tell them that Drakos sent you.
I was hoping you would post something like that, I didn't search to hard trying to find the best prices :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the comments, good info as always.

Kanos : I think you must've seen the Stoptech Stg 2 somewhere pricey, its only 499 at their website. Which seems like a pretty nice deal considering all it includes...

Driggity : I've heard a bunch of good things about the Ferodos...I'll certianly look into those.

d_r : Currently #1 on the list.

I might just see if I can hold out for a bit and save some money so I can change my rotors and pads at the same time. Then do lines and fluid once I have the extra money... I think the EBC Green Stuff rears that I bought a while back (same time as fronts...I didn't know better) aren't going to see any run time, they dust quite a bit for their relevant stopping power, and eat rotors like crazy...in about 25k they've practically killed my rotors that showed very little wear when I swapped the pads.

Another option I just thought of is to throw the old stock front pads on, not an ideal solution, but it would at least hold me over until I got lines/fluid/new pads. The stockers have ~50% of the mat'l left on them...Any big no-nos on doing something like that?

Thanks a ton guys...
 

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Yeah, your right Stoptech only charges 500 for stage 2. But they charge 50 for shipping remember, atleast thats how much it came up for me. I think its a pretty good setup, just don't think its exactly what I need, just like you will need to customize your brake setup for your needs. But atleast now you have some good ideas :)
 

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After cracking my stock rotors I now run stock rotors with ferrodo 2500 pads. I'm really happy with it. My car is EDM so I have the stock subaru 4 pod calipers in front.

They make sound when you breake really carefully (light) but I never breake that light so it "never" bothers me.
The reson I did not get a bigger kit was partly the lack of $$ at that time and partly because I want to fit 15" wheels at the winter seson. (Studded 175\80-15")

I'm considering a medium breake kit to get some better stopping power @ summer , but it must fit on at least 16" wheels because it's the biggest I will go with winter tires. The pads are greate and I will continue to use them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
KanosWRX said:
Yeah, your right Stoptech only charges 500 for stage 2. But they charge 50 for shipping remember, atleast thats how much it came up for me. I think its a pretty good setup, just don't think its exactly what I need, just like you will need to customize your brake setup for your needs. But atleast now you have some good ideas :)
Ahhh, yes very good point, my Consumer-driven brain often overlooks details like that. (ie that its not exactly what I need) With this weather going on in the NE lately, it kind of forces you to be light on the brakes anyway, so I shouldn't have a problem eeking out a bit more time on the current setup...at least until I can make up my mind :D
 

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Roffa - The ferrodo 2500 pads sound interesting, I have been running Axis Ultimates for over a year now (when at the track I run something more aggressive).

Do you run those on both street and at the track? In what ways are they better than other pads that you have run?
 

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I have Subaru four pots and they allow for better brake modulation. I don't see much difference in stopping distance. When I needed new rotors, I bought stock. The pads you use are very important. I like Porterfields in that regard. Carbotech pads are quite good, too.

Slots, holes, and dimples in rotors are for marketing, not performance. IMO, one way to improve over stock rotors is to add rotors with aluminum hats to reduce unsprung weight. If you want to reduce brake fade, get a larger rotor.

If you really want to stop, buy good tires.

X
 

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I run the DS2500's year round w/ no problems. I've run dozens of autox's w/ them and put them through hell at PIR on 100+ degree day, w/ 120mph+ on the front straightawys/ 110 + on the rear. The 2500's held up remarkably well.
I also run them in the rear to help w/ bias.

I'll probably run DS3000's from now on at track events, 2500's for everything else. It is very comforting to know that your daily pads can withstand the abuse of long track day however.

The DS2500's have a coefficient of .48, op temps 0-1202F
3000's coefficient of .62, op temps 200F- 1382F

The do dust, but not overly so (except at the track), I've not found them to be noisy.

Big Sky
 

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I can only compare the Axxis Ultimates to the stock pads, seeing as those are the only ones that I have run on the street. I autocross and they definately bite much better than stock. They also keep the rotors in better shape than the stock pads (I had only run the stock pads for 6 months before developing a pulsation, probably due to liner material transfer).
They tend to fade when braking from higher than autocross speeds for any extended period, so I wouldn't recommend for track days. I would consider them to be dirty pads, but from what I gather most of the good pads are.

Has any one run both the DS2500's and the Axxis Ultimates? Care to compare??
 
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