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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What?s up guys? Been a wile since I been on here but I have a 2012 wrx and I?ve noticed this noise? a light ticking/ knocking sound a month ago. I happen to get my oil changed the next day and it went away. I though it was my CV joints because it only made a clicking sound when I turned in a circle but that?s not the case now that it?s happened again. Also it?s right when I was about to get my oil changed so the car all the sudden is eating oil (which is never had before) but I read when the oil light turns on I?ve read that it is basically too late. My light flashed on for a split second and I was just two miles from home and I coasted home as much as I could. I checked the oil and was very low. I filled it to fill with oil and started the car. It knocked a few times for a split second and then was quite and made no noise. I shut off the car and checked the oil it was full. I started the car and went down the street. It sounded ok until I got to 3500 rpm and when I shift and the RPM drops it makes a very light clicking/knocking if I give it gas and cruise it sounds fine. Only when I let off the gas to shift or slow down it makes the noise. I?ve looked up on you tube what bad rod bearings sound like and the sound identical. I?m going to have someone look at it tom. I really just want to know what some of you guys think my best option could be. Would a new rotating assembly be ok to put in this block. Is like to get something nice. I also saw a brand new STI block brand new with 1 yr warranty straight from Subaru 1,800$. I also came across a brand new STI block with forged internals ( weisco pistons etc. )2,900$. then I also saw an IAG block for 600 I thought I could get some nice intervals for that. I know most ppl say when rod bearings go you engine is toast. I Read and heard most the bad news so any positive feedback will be appreciated. Thx!
 

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My first thing would be to address what caused the oil loss issues. A spun bearing alone will not cause excessive oil consumption.

You can just replace the rotating assembly but you may need to have block work done if there is scoring on the cylinder walls. If they have to be bored you'll need new Pistons. Personally I would replace the entire shortblock. It really isn't that much more expensive and is usually more reliable.

I would address any consumable item while it's all apart though. Coolant hoses, belts, vacuum lines. That way you won't have to mess with it for a long time

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks any info helps and yes I am looking at a new block. It just makes more sense. I?m just trying to look at this as positive as I can. I?m going to have it looked at today and will possibly have more Info.
 

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Yeah this is a blessing or a curse depending on your view point. You'll have the advantage of having an entirely new engine and depending on your budget an entirely new set of consumable parts. Essentially starting fresh.

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