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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My stock 2013 Wrx hatch got rear ended last month on the freeway. As I’m slowing down due to a car being spun out in the middle of the road, I get slammed from behind. I got hit more towards the left, so the other car likely tried to swerve.

The shop repair estimate is around $11k, which included replacement of the rear subframe and stabilizer bar.

The repairs were completed, but they are having issues with the alignment on the rear driver side. Their mechanic believed it was a control arm issue, so it was replaced. However, the rear driver side alignment is still off at -0.5 and should be around -1.5 degrees. The shop told me that they ordered an adjustable control arm to hopefully fix the camber.

If this doesn’t fix the issue, I’m getting concerned about more damage that’s hidden somewhere. Is there more rear suspension or frame damage that they can’t see?
 

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The car isn't straight. The actual chassis is likely tweaked further than can be repaired
 

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The car isn't straight. The actual chassis is likely tweaked further than can be repaired
He's probably right. If you have access to a lift, get up under there and eyeball the lower control arm mounting points for any signs of damage/stress. If no lift, you can do it up on jackstands, but it's much less comfortable. You might only be looking at a "wrinkle" but that's enough to get it out by that much. I can say from experience that it is hard to see it all, sometimes damage is staring you in the face and you don't notice for a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
He's probably right. If you have access to a lift, get up under there and eyeball the lower control arm mounting points for any signs of damage/stress. If no lift, you can do it up on jackstands, but it's much less comfortable. You might only be looking at a "wrinkle" but that's enough to get it out by that much. I can say from experience that it is hard to see it all, sometimes damage is staring you in the face and you don't notice for a bit.
It's back in the shop now, so I have to hope they can find the issue. I explained to them that the rear camber is not adjustable from the factory, so there must be damage somewhere. They're thinking the control arm, rear sub frame, or knuckle.

As for the chassis being tweaked, the repairs included a 3-d measure and pull. It was about an hour work and they don't think it's causing the camber to be off.
 

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If they can't make it right, you need to re-approach the insurance company about totaling the car. Or, if you're likely to lose too much money, get it fixed and sell it as fast as possible. I hate saying to do that, because the poor schlub who gets it next will be getting screwed. But, with having an accident on the books, the value of that car is going to tank very quickly with every mile you add to the odometer.
 

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If they can't make it right, you need to re-approach the insurance company about totaling the car. Or, if you're likely to lose too much money, get it fixed and sell it as fast as possible. I hate saying to do that, because the poor schlub who gets it next will be getting screwed. But, with having an accident on the books, the value of that car is going to tank very quickly with every mile you add to the odometer.
I'm with this guy. I'd take the totaled value though. I'm not the guy to offload my problems to an unsuspecting fool.

I don't care how many Ds that shop has. That's how many they can eat when they try to tell someone they can pull an aluminum unibody straight. There are things they can do to make sure it can roll straight, but if they pulled it once and it's hooped you can write it off as ever being good enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm with this guy. I'd take the totaled value though. I'm not the guy to offload my problems to an unsuspecting fool.

I don't care how many Ds that shop has. That's how many they can eat when they try to tell someone they can pull an aluminum unibody straight. There are things they can do to make sure it can roll straight, but if they pulled it once and it's hooped you can write it off as ever being good enough.
Yea I was expecting my insurance to total it when the shop submitted a supplement that brought the total estimate to ~11k, but they approved it. Now the insurance is in a sunk cost scenario for the additional repairs, which they approved again.
 

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Yea I was expecting my insurance to total it when the shop submitted a supplement that brought the total estimate to ~11k, but they approved it. Now the insurance is in a sunk cost scenario for the additional repairs, which they approved again.
Technically 11k is less than the cash value of the vehicle by a fair margin. However if i were you I wouldn't keep that car unless you want a war pig for the track or strip.

Frame damage is a really funny thing and once it's happened it will never be the same again. The absolute last ditch effort is using aftermarket suspension components to hide the effects of the damage, or a first ditch effort if you are looking to hide the half assed repair like was done on my legacy.
 
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