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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am writing this build log with two things in mind. One, I wish to document things I've done to my car (obviously). Two, this community has helped me a lot - I hope to add enough of my install tips and impressions of everything I've done for use to others.

Please add your thoughts or impressions as I go through this, I'd appreciate it and it would make it a more well rounded reference to others.

Filled it up with the dealer in the car at 7 miles on the odometer. Picked it up from the dealer with 8 the next day.

Summary:
Engine:
-Invidia Equal Length Race Exhaust Manifold
-KNS CAI (stock sized MAF housing - wrinkle red w/ heat shield)
-GS Uppipe & Dump pipe w/ Tial 44m (MV-R) - ceramic coated
-Invidia Catless Down Pipe - heat wrapped w/ DEI titanium stuff
-Nameless Performance Mid-Pipe (no resonator)
-Nameless Performance Axle-Back
-Grimmspeed EBCS
-PTP Turbo Blanket
-Innovative LC-1 controller
-Tuned by myself (with help from others of course).

Suspension:
-RCE Front/Rear Sway Bars
-RCE Black Springs (about stock ride height for this year)
-Kartboy end links
-Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
-Additional front Camber Bolts
-Custom alignment (0 toe, max negative up front - around -1.2 degrees)

Wheels/Tires:
-17" Gold Enkei PF01 w/ Blizzaks
-18" Stock BBS wheels w/ RE-11s

Driveline Stuff:
-Whiteline Rear Diff Bushings
-Kartboy Pitch Stop
-Kartboy Rear Subframe Inserts
-Kartboy Front/Rear/Pivot/Linkage shifter bushings
-Kartboy SS lever, combined with factory SS linkage
-Lathewerkz SS shift knob (textured black)
-Group N Transmission/Engine Mounts
-Turninconcepts Crossmember Bushings
-Clutch 'Delay Delete'

Brakes:
-Goodrich SS Lines
-Ferodo DS2500 for track use
-Stock pads for daily use
-Motul 600 fluid

Driver Mods:
-2x PittPDE at Pittsburgh International Race Complex
-More to come hopefully

Other:
-SMY Cluster with AFR & Boost gauge.
-CG Lock for the seat belt
-Weathertech liners
-Seat mod for better bolstering
-Opened up additional rear engine bay vents
-Who knows

Index:
3/8/2011 - Goodbye Safari van =)
4/7/2011 - Debadged
4/26/2011 - Nameless Performance Axle Back installed
5/16/2011 - eTune with Mikey
5/20/2011 - Got some stuff =)
5/24/2011 - Kartboy Rear Subframe Bushings installed
5/26/2011 - Kartboy Pitch Stop installed
5/30/2011 - Kartboy Rear Endlinks installed
6/06/2011 - Whiteline Rear Diff Inserts installed
6/25/2011 - Seat Mod
7/03/2011 - Driveline overhaul (Shifter lever/bushings, Xmember bushings, and tranny mount)
?/??/2011 - Driveline Overhaul #2 (Engine mounts, Steering rack bushings)
?/??/2011 - Suspension Overhaul (RCE Blacks, RCE F/R Sways, and Alignment)
Lathewerks SS ball shift knob, weathertech mats, & hella horns
Blizzaks / Gold Enkeis (Awesome decision even with the light winter we had)
Invidia down pipe, nameless mid pipe, SMY cluster w/boost gauge, lc-1 w/ gauge, and GrimmSpeed EBCS
Stock sized KSTech Intake w/ heat shield
GrimmSpeed 44mm EWG up pipe w/ Tial MV-R & GrimmSpeed Wastegate bracket
5/24/12 - Brake upgrade attempt. Learning experience.
5/25/12 - Track day at Pittsburgh International Race Complex. Ferodo DS2500 pads, generic Dot4 fluid, squishy lines. Still a blast. Brake pad carnage photos included.
5/29/12 - Stainless lines and fresh brake bleed... good to go =)
6/13/12 - Track day prep (1/2) - Rear engine bay venting
6/15/12 - Track Day #2
8/8/12 - Invidia Equal Length Race Exhaust Manifold
10/27/12 - UOAs posted up from Blackstone
11/8/12 - PTP Turbo Blanket, Clutch "Delay Delete", Stupid Heat Shield Removed, Winter Wheels, & 'Upgraded' Wheel Stud

Disclaimer: I like lots of words and big pictures. Small pictures annoy me, and the page down button always works. I figure these are being hosted on another site, and we are out of the 28k/56k/'stone age' era by now =).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Reserved as well.
 

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Pro Manscaper
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My guess is that an STI build thread isn't off topic :p

Looking forward to seeing your progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nameless Axle Back:


I was excited about my axle back. I thought the factory exhaust note was way too quiet, and I couldn't tell what my engine was doing when my dad would play with the radio.

Install: ...Went as planned. I rolled the car up on ramps (for the first time), took out the two bolts that connect to the mid pipe, and then worked the exhaust hangars off. The exhaust hangers were trickier than I thought honestly. Then maneuvered the new muffler on. Took a bit mroe work than expected overall (no surprise), but was the first bit of work I've ever done on a car outside of audio stuff.

Impressions: I love it. It's just about perfect. I would have liked it a bit louder honestly, but the general public and the female race would have liked it a bit quieter. Little more balls at idle and when romping on it, but quieter when the engine isn't under too much load. No complaints. Quality of the product is excellent. I will buy from Nameless again, no questions asked. Mid pipe should be around the corner =).

Some pictures of the installed exhaust tips I had sitting around:


 

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very nice! It's a extra rewarding feeling when you do the work on your own car :) also, i don't know if it's just me, but with the exhausts I've put on my two cars they seem to get a little louder over time.

**edit**
Looked online a little bit. The mufflers will get broken in after a little driving and the sound will change. Hopefully to the level that you are hoping for :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
very nice! It's a extra rewarding feeling when you do the work on your own car :) also, i don't know if it's just me, but with the exhausts I've put on my two cars they seem to get a little louder over time.

**edit**
Looked online a little bit. The mufflers will get broken in after a little driving and the sound will change. Hopefully to the level that you are hoping for :)
It's been on for over a month now. I'm just going back through and commenting on past installs for sake of completeness/reference. I did notice a change over the first 1k miles with the stock exhaust. I'm not sure whether that was due to the muffler breaking in or other components. I haven't noticed a large difference over the course of a month. That being said, if I had a recording from when I put it on, and a recording from today... it may sound noticeably different. Day to day, it was nothing radical. Still sounds great though, and very happy with it.

Keep in mind, I got the hatch version. The sedan version doesn't have a muffler due to the different acoustics between the models. I can't voice my opinion for the sedan one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
MAF cleaning:

After fighting for a week or so with RomRaider and my Tactrix cable, I finally realized my definitions were put in incorrectly. After fixing, I picked up a can of MAF cleaner to start with a clean slate, and flashed a base map from Mikey.

Even though it was simple enough for even me to figure it out, I've failed miserably at installs other people said were cake. I'll throw some pictures up of the MAF cleaner I used (not sold at walmart, got it at advanced), where the MAF is located under the hood, and what it looks like when pulled out (and what I sprayed).

I wasn't expecting a performance gain or anything out of cleaning the MAF. I just wanted to eliminate any potential problems that could arise from a dirty one when tuning. Only took me 15 minutes, tops, and may have saved the tuner and myself hours of work.

EDIT: Thanks to Donkey for the comment. I actually have the IAT labeled with the pink arrow. The MAF is up inside the tube. I have corrected the image, but it doesn't appear to be updating.

Cleaner:


Location on airbox:


MAF pulled out:


eTuning with Mikey:

Reasoning: There aren't too many good tuners close by my area. After reading around, Mikey (I can give you his contact info if you are interested) fit my situation pretty well. He was very laid back with everything, but very quick about getting new maps and feedback to me. I would recommend him to anybody. The only thing being that you want to get your tactrix cable working first. The few other eTuning options I found were very pricey. Mikey was a flat rate and very nicely priced.

Results: Power band is much smoother now. No longer feels as 'tempermental'. I'd say aside from the performance increase and the power band, I really enjoyed the new throttle mapping. He redid sport to allow for full throttle response, but kept the linear feel. The car is still a lot of fun to drive, but much more predictable. I have a much easier time rev matching now with the remapped sport mode. Once again, I'd recommend Mikey to anybody.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
At this point in my build, I 'took advantage' of a 6MT Super Shift Kit group buy hosted by turninconcepts. I also bought every bonus option I could applicable to my car. Plus some cross member bushings that were out of stock and coming soon.

So, here is it all spread out on the table and notated. My photobucket editing skills are limited. If I was smart, I'd just edit them before uploading, but they are straight off my phone.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Kartboy Rear Subframe Bushings:

So funny story about these. I thought maybe TiC just sent me the very rear ones (the rear two of the rear subframe bushings.. confusing). I did not realize they were stuck together in pairs. I accidentally put both of them in before realizing I had put two in while doing the other side. I dropped the other side, fixed it, then realized I had to jack up the subframe to get the bolt to thread back in safely. I got it, was a bit nerve wracking though.

Make sure you do this install with the rear suspension loaded. I tried it on ramps, but I think the car needs to be level... might have luck if you jack up the front of the car to be even with the ramps. I just left it on the ground and did some squirming. It wasn't too bad once I realized this.

There are 4. This isn't an install guide, but I will post some pictures in case they are of any use.







Impressions: Took out some driveline slop when you start/stop. Hard to describe. No noise or vibration added or anything. Just less front to back bouncing. Considering the ease of the install and the low price, I would recommend these.

Whiteline makes ones that actually insert inside the bushings from the top and bottom. To install these, you need to drop the entire subframe and jack it back up to bolt it back together. I'm sure they would make more of a difference, but I had a discount on these, and they filled in those voids on the 2011s from what I gather anyhow.

Overall, two thumbs up =).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Kartboy Pitch Stop:

No pictures for this one. Install went as planned. Hardest part being wrestling the TMIC back into it's spot. If anybody has any suggestions to help maneuver that thing, I'd appreciate it. That turbo connection is evil. I will buy a spare silicon tube next time it's out, just in case I rip it.

Torque spec's were right out of the service manual. 38 or so on the engine side, and 43 or so on the firewall.

Impressions: Once again, less driveline slop. I also feel more connected to my engine =). It's not really much more noise, but there is noticeable (good) vibrations when you lay into the throttle. I'm really happy with it. It kind of reminded me of the bug eye I rode in a while ago. Less fluff and more 'raw'. I would probably suggest it, even if you don't like noise/vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Subscribed will enjoy reading this build very detailed so far good luck and goodjob so far
Thanks, I appreciate it.

Please let me know if I can elaborate on anything. I have pulled a lot of information from other build logs while planning, so anything I can do to help others out I will.
 

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Subscribed will enjoy reading this build very detailed so far good luck and goodjob so far
+1

I dig the overall detail put into your explanations.
 

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Lookin good man.. def subscribed to this one :D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Kartboy Rear Endlink Install:

This was my first install that went as planned actually. I was hoping that I could do one... and then the other, but I did have to take both off at once to rotate the sway bar around a bit. I got these slightly discounted off of the super shifter group buy, so I thought I'd put them on the stock bar for now. It will be upgraded in a bit when I get more cash. Apparently sway bars are significantly more expensive than driveline bushings.

Make sure you keep the suspension loaded when doing this. I used my ramps, which I use whenever possible over jack stands. I feel more secure, and I feel its easier on the car.

I couldn't get them to line up perfectly vertical with the stock bar. You can see the best I could get in the pictures. I would be concerned about them not being vertical, but the bushings aren't being torqued funny at all, so I am okay with it. If anybody thinks I should fix them, I will just buy a sway bar this time.

Biggest problem was getting the bolt on the top on. Not much clearance back there, and the locking bolt that I got with the end links was not kidding around. That sucker was exhausting.

Only two pictures for this one.

Final product to view orientation on ramps:


...and a comparison shot. Note how the stock ones are spherical... These are not:


Impressions:
Back end seems to be better planted. Still rolls, but the tires seem to want to stick better. Hard to explain. Better. Not perfect still. A larger sway bar will help a lot. Overall, I was gonna do it anyhow, might as well enjoy it until I get the bars =)
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Damn those look a lot better than the oem ones!
Yep. It should be noted that some people like the stock end links better. They are spherical, and may deflect less than the non-spherical. The bushing on the bottom of the OEM ones I believe is their downfall. Also, a bit more heft would make me feel better if I was using the OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Kartboy Rear Differential Inserts/Bushings Install:

Install:
Went as planned. Somehow.

The ones in the front member (the bar that goes under the diff) went very smoothly. Much smoother than planned. First, busted out my high quality jack to support the differential. I only took the bolt out of the left one - looking at the car from the rear - and the two ones that are vertical through it. I pulled it down enough to slip the bushings in. Supporting the diff with the jack (close to the member itself) was key here.

The ones in the back are kind of a pain. I used c-clamps to slowly and smoothly press the tops of them in enough to get the washer/bolt threaded. The double sided bolts stayed in the diff for me. I turned the jack up just enough so that I could see the bushings start to distort, then lowered it. I assumed that was a good compromise. In my pictures, you can see the slight ring around the bolt created from raising/lowering the diff.

I dunno if that was according to book, but it worked pretty smoothly. I included a shot of the tech manual for torque specs as well.
In the package:


Torque Specs for bolts in question:


End targets. Keep in mind both bushings on the support go in the left side looking at the rear of the car. One faces front, one faces rear. It's weird. I know.


Voids on the top/back two bushings:


A big picture of my set up to get those top ones in. I just used a c clamp to gently squeeze from the back of that top member to the top of the bushing. Note my awesome high quality jack.


Just another so you can get a good idea of what you are working with. The more pictures for me the better normally:



Impressions:
Wow. Similar to the rear sub frame bushings, only a much more dramatic effect. Shifting is a bit less audible, and the power goes to the ground. No 'spring action' Subaru anymore =). I really feel that the car is easier to drive, and 'rowing the boat' is even more enjoyable now.

I am pretty stoked to get the Xmember bushings, Group N Tranny mount, and all of the shifter bushings/KB lever in. Just need my 1/2" larger breaker bar from harbor freight. Darn Xmember spline 17mm. Those suckers are evil.
 
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