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Discussion Starter #1
What is the best Turbo Timer and the best Boost Controller assuming your budget is unlimited:eek: :D :confused1 ???

-Jon-
 

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Turbo timer is just a stopwatch hooked up to your ignition, there isn't much difference between the brands. If you want a boost readout and peak boost display/warning, the Blitz Dual TT is good.

Boost controller....manual or electric? I had the JoeP manual boost controller, and it worked great. Not sure about EBC's.
 

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I like my Blitz BC, but they are like $500. It has hella cool parts, but they are pricie for sure. Harvey has the same one as me, and likes his too. I also have the power meter, but have yet to really use it.
MCL
 

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There was one EBC I heard about... damn, I wish I could remember it. It had a lot of letters, I know that. It had gear specific boost... damn.... Memory sucks. Sorry. Anyone? I think it started with an "A" Apex'i? Do they make one? I dunno...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
svc said:
Turbo timer is just a stopwatch hooked up to your ignition, there isn't much difference between the brands. If you want a boost readout and peak boost display/warning, the Blitz Dual TT is good.

Boost controller....manual or electric? I had the JoeP manual boost controller, and it worked great. Not sure about EBC's.
Now for a turbo noob question... what is the difference between manual and electric boost controllers:confused: ?

What does everyone think about buying them off ebay?

-Jon-
 

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I don't think the SBC-ID has gear based boost, I think thats the Apexi one. You can have the SBC-ID do some crazy things after a shift, if you want. A EBC and a MBC both work but modifiling the waste gate input. The MBC works by "corking" the input, the EBC feed a new input to the waste gate.
MCL
 

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Zem said:
Yeah, that one! Something like that....
It's the Apex'i AVC-R

The Super AVC-R is the premium closed-loop electronic boost controller on the market. The AVC-R allows flexible control over virtually every aspect of boost control and adds new innovative functions such as injector pulse monitoring and gear specific boost control. Some key functions include: RPM-based boost and solenoid duty cycle control, scramble boost, self learning mode, 2D ghost map trace mode, analog display mode, real time replay and peak hold data modes. The AVC-R utilizes an ultra-fast microprocessor and a high quality solenoid valve to control boost. The result is ultra-fast response and accurate, stable boost control.

 

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The AVC-R is a pretty amazing unit. The blitz Dual SBC is another great unit and my personal favorite due to it's slightly better response time and ability to maintain peak boost, it's also not as annoying to find a place to install.

The difference between an electronic and manual boost controller is the response time. With a manual boost controller the wastegate opening is basically controlled by a spring, when boost hits a point determined by how stiff the spring is, the wastegate will open up bleeding off the exhaust that is building the boost. The problem with this is that the spring will always start to open just slightly before the turbo hits full boost, this makes the last few lbs of boost take alot longer to build. An electronic boost controller uses a computer to watch boost levels and instantly snap open a solenoid when the boost target is reached.

The reason I like the Dual SBC more is that it uses two solenoids to work the wastegate instead of one. Electronic boost controllers cycle the solenoid on and off very fast to maintain a boost target. When two solenoids are used you can effictively cycle twice as fast, this allows slightly more precise control, better response time with less fluctuations in your boost levels under all conditions. Granted this is all extremely nitpicky and very few people will notice the difference. One thing I really like about the AVC-R is all the feedback and logging it can do plus it looks totally b1tchin.

Hope some of this helps
 

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analog_909 said:
The AVC-R is a pretty amazing unit. The blitz Dual SBC is another great unit and my personal favorite due to it's slightly better response time and ability to maintain peak boost, it's also not as annoying to find a place to install.

The difference between an electronic and manual boost controller is the response time. With a manual boost controller the wastegate opening is basically controlled by a spring, when boost hits a point determined by how stiff the spring is, the wastegate will open up bleeding off the exhaust that is building the boost. The problem with this is that the spring will always start to open just slightly before the turbo hits full boost, this makes the last few lbs of boost take alot longer to build. An electronic boost controller uses a computer to watch boost levels and instantly snap open a solenoid when the boost target is reached.

The reason I like the Dual SBC more is that it uses two solenoids to work the wastegate instead of one. Electronic boost controllers cycle the solenoid on and off very fast to maintain a boost target. When two solenoids are used you can effictively cycle twice as fast, this allows slightly more precise control, better response time with less fluctuations in your boost levels under all conditions. Granted this is all extremely nitpicky and very few people will notice the difference. One thing I really like about the AVC-R is all the feedback and logging it can do plus it looks totally b1tchin.

Hope some of this helps
THANKS for the info! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanx for all the info guys :D

-Jon-
 

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Discussion Starter #14
greddy blue profec b boost controller... how much would you pay for this? And is this a good boost controller:confused1

-Jon-
 

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Discussion Starter #16
tdgkorn said:
I have the greddy profec e-01 and I love it.
How much would you pay for a used one:confused1 ? This guy that I might buy it from says it's in mint condition and works perfect. The reason he is selling it is because he wants to buy a UTEC... Or I guess you could just read the post... it's under "have a quick question"...:D

-Jon-
 

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I payed about $640 brand new for mine.
I personally wouldn't buy one used only because you don't get a warranty. If it breaks you have a $600 plus piece of crap.

I do highly recommend the e-01 :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
tdgkorn said:
I payed about $640 brand new for mine.
I personally wouldn't buy one used only because you don't get a warranty. If it breaks you have a $600 plus piece of crap.

I do highly recommend the e-01 :)
I don't know what to offer him though... I don't want to offer him to high, but at the same time, I don't want to offer him to low... I'm so confused:confused1

-Jon-
 

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I'd rather Lowball him at first and then go from there than to offer something way too high and get screwed!

Cliff Notes: Lowball > Paying too much
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Chris G said:
I'd rather Lowball him at first and then go from there than to offer something way too high and get screwed!

Cliff Notes: Lowball > Paying too much
understandable... so like between $150-200:confused1

-Jon-
 
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