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Discussion Starter #41
Next step- GGB rev A struts/springs/Grp N tops. I purchased all the extra bits- spring seats/seals, etc- so I could pull my oem strut/spring assemblies whole- the "spt" kit doesn't come w/ that stuff- they expect you to reuse your oem stuff.
 

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No Noltecs for the front? It will be interesting to see what your front ride height is compared to mine. Those control arms are pretty but I just can't justify paying that price. You should throw an ALK on there too and just say screw it to SCCA auto-x classing.
 

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Nice! you got all new dust boots and the whole shabang. Have you seen those "Moog" ball joints that Teagues carries in their suspension section? I wonder if its something that is an improvement on stock...

I almost was going to go back to the Sti reds myself. But I think I am going to get rid of my Tein HG's and go for the new "tuned by Arai" pinks with the 5.8kg front and 4.9kg rear. A bit more costly but seeming to be just what I am looking for not too stiff but not to soft either.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
No Noltecs yet. The arms are expensive (got a pretty good deal- one of those that is tough to pass up:) ).

The Arai setup looks very nice- I was looking at that as well as the v7 pink adj setup.

I usually go a year and then say screw to autox class;)

Big Sky
 

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I'm getting control arms for my wagon as well.. which control arms did you pick up? GC8 or the GDB ? I don't know if you know but if you pick up the GC8 it'll fit the wagon endlinks fine, but if youre using the GDB, the endlinks are different.

Nevermind I read the rest of your post.. nice find with the gc arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
jawbrkr said:
I'm getting control arms for my wagon as well.. which control arms did you pick up? GC8 or the GDB ? I don't know if you know but if you pick up the GC8 it'll fit the wagon endlinks fine, but if youre using the GDB, the endlinks are different.

Nevermind I read the rest of your post.. nice find with the gc arms.
Yeah their GC ones, if going GD, do your hoemwork. Their longer and will definiely impact suspension geometry- I'd also be concerned w/ axle length, effects on cv joints/wheel bearings etc.

It has been done, but I don't know aht other bits they replaced.

Big Sky
 

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to my understanding, all i need is sedan endlinks, control arms, swaybar, sedan shocks and springs... if you know of anything else, please let me know. there isn't a lot of material on this subject.
 

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jawbrkr said:
to my understanding, all i need is sedan endlinks, control arms, swaybar, sedan shocks and springs... if you know of anything else, please let me know. there isn't a lot of material on this subject.
Those things should make the setup work but there could be an issue with using the wagon halfshafts in the long run. The CV joints may have enough "give" to them to make things work correctly but I'm not sure and I haven't heard of anyone running this setup for a long period of time.
 

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Well the parts are on order, and I'll let you know what happens in the long run. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Got my alignment done- most camber I could get out of the drivers side was -0.9 (could get -1.2 on the other side) so settled on -0.9 (l/r), evened up the rear w/ -1.5/side (with some pushing pulling).

Toe I set to 1mm out/side- front and rear.

My alignment guy is great to work w/! 0 cross camber, 0 cross toe- he's a perfectionist.

I'll get ride height tomorrow- eyeballing it, looks pretty close to what it was.

First autox in the wagon tomorrow:D

Big Sky
 

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pardon me if i'm wrong, but i've always had the alignment done AFTER setting the desired ride height not before. since once you reset the ride height you are also changing your alignment measurements
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Alex is correct, just measuring (which I still haven't done). I can report that after a lengthy autox session (all is right w/ the world again- I'm back in the saddle:D )
that the setup is working thus far. Turn in is precise, long sweepers were amazing, slaloms excellent and the car would transition very well. In tighter corners I'm battling some understeer- I think more camber up front ( a degree of caster wouldn't hurt either) would help.

So far so good. The daily driven ride is very acceptable thus far as well.

Big Sky
 

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Discussion Starter #56
ride heights

before f/l 387, f/r 392, r/l 378 r/r 379

after f/l 387, f/r 391, r/l 372, r/r 375

essentially front unchanged, rear minimal drop 4-6mm

Big Sky
 

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Did you measure to the plastic fender liner or to the fender itself in the rear? If you measured to the fender itself it looks like my car is lower in the rear but about the same in the front (even with the Noltec plates). Assuming that the 02 fenders openings are the same as on your car. I'm surprised that our cars are the same in the front as mine seems to sit a bit high with the plates in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
driggity said:
Did you measure to the plastic fender liner or to the fender itself in the rear? If you measured to the fender itself it looks like my car is lower in the rear but about the same in the front (even with the Noltec plates). Assuming that the 02 fenders openings are the same as on your car. I'm surprised that our cars are the same in the front as mine seems to sit a bit high with the plates in there.
Fender itself. Don't know if the wheel arches are the same or not, the ride height specs are the same- 387 +/- 12mm front; 376 +/- 12mm

You know w/ my 02 I never got the increased ride height w/ the Noltecs (maybe a couple of mm's), so I don't know. I know some were keeping the tapered washer and that would add ~ .5".

Big Sky
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Yeah I'd be pissed if my heights were all over the place, 1/2" from side to side is significant- actually could be as much as an inch and still be in "spec".

Big Sky
 
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