Subaru WRX Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

Can anyone tell me the part No for the MAP sensor on an 07 WRX hawkeye

Subaru quoted me £400, have found some Denso ones on ebay for £40 but not sure if they are compatible.

Any help would be appreciated

thanks
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,429 Posts
You can go to denso directly.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks for your reply McBill, your link was perfect, if I was looking for a Mass Airflow Sensor.

I'm looking for a MAP (Manifiold Absolute Pressure) sensor. So searched the same company and they have some and they list the part number :)

I tried Denso and apparently they don't make the part for that particular model.

So thanks for your help people, i think I got there in the end.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,314 Posts
I think everyone is confused because USDM turbo motors all have MAF and no MAP, and as far as I can tell that is also true in the UK.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,429 Posts
I think everyone is confused because USDM turbo motors all have MAF and no MAP, and as far as I can tell that is also true in the UK.
Isn't there still a map sensor?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,314 Posts
Ah, crap, so it does. I guess that it is just not used for fueling and I'd never heard of one needing to be replaced so I never thought they had one.
 

·
Village Idiot
Joined
·
2,450 Posts
Thanks for your reply McBill, your link was perfect, if I was looking for a Mass Airflow Sensor.

I'm looking for a MAP (Manifiold Absolute Pressure) sensor. So searched the same company and they have some and they list the part number :)

I tried Denso and apparently they don't make the part for that particular model.

So thanks for your help people, i think I got there in the end.
That's my mistake. I misread. RockAuto is a great site for a stupid large selection of OEM replacement parts either way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The plot thickens, Lucky for me my brother has an identical car so I borrowed the MAP sensor and still got the same problem, the Dignostic also says the waste gate solenoid is causing the problem too. So I took that off my brothers car and fitted it but still getting the problem.

So the errors are obviously symptoms of the problem and not the cause.

The waste gate actuator is working and i have pressure tested it and the diaphragm holds pressure
The car just cuts out completely and sometimes it restarts sometimes not, then if I disconnect the MAP sensor it starts again goes for a while and stops.

It seems ok when the engine is cold but as it warms up the troubles begin.

All a bit confusing, if anyone has any ideas let me know.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,429 Posts
Try crank or can position sensors. I've not had one on my WRX fail, but your last description is very reminiscent of what my wj jeep would do when the sensor started going.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,314 Posts
Yeah if the boost control solenoid fails you're just stuck at spring pressure for boost. It doesn't make the car cut out.

Does it just cut out at idle, or while you're driving it?

I honestly don't know what the MAP is used for, although I did see a mention of it being used for boost control after it was pointed out that there actually is one. How unplugging it could be doing anything is over my head. The fueling is handled by the MAF (and the front O2 sensor). It is worth it to clean the MAF properly (the sensor is way up inside the tube) if it is stumbling and cutting out. It is worth it even if it doesn't fix the issue. Otherwise you might look into getting a fuel pressure gauge set up inline and positioned so you can see it while driving if necessary. Also are the plugs and plug wires good? Hopefully it isn't an electrical issue.

Do you have any way to look at ECU stored data - i.e. the A/F corrections?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The Map sensor is used to make sure the dont build up too much turbo pressure in the intake manifold, the wastegate solenoid governs the wastegate actuator to make sure the pressure is not released too early and allows a bit more turbo pressure at certain times (so i'm told)

First you get the idle speed going up and down on it's own then when you blip the throttle the engine begins to stall on the way back down.
When driving the troubles begin when it warms up and when you go into over run like coasting down a hill or coming up to a junction. the engine just cuts out completely.

I have got someone to look at in on Tuesday who is an electrical genius (apparently) so will post here when I finally get an answer.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,314 Posts
Well, that sounds expensive, but I hope for the best.

Is there an actual CEL code thrown for the MAP or did you just decide to try it unplugged? Because the function of it does not affect the symptoms you're having. And yes, that is very basically what the boost control solenoid does. When pressure builds up under boost, it goes through a line with a restrictor pill into the BCS, then from there to the wastegate actuator. So without it the pressure will build up until the pressure going through the line equals the wastegate spring and opens the wastegate, so you can't build any more boost than spring pressure without the BCS reducing the pressure in the line. None of that ties in with fueling though.

I'm speculating that your issue is during closed loop fueling. When the car is warming up, it is in open loop and just using the maps in the ECU basically and the MAF signal. When it warms up it uses closed loop for feedback bringing in the reading from the front O2 sensor and adjusting fueling based on that. This is used in non-WOT conditions, as in idle and decel as you described - it kicks over to open loop for higher load/RPM conditions. The only relevance of the MAP I can even guess of is maybe it kicks you out of closed loop when it is unplugged. The sensors that are needing to be checked IMO are the MAF and the front O2, unless you're seeing a CEL for the MAP. Cleaning the MAF is about 10 min. total and MAF cleaner is cheap. You can unplug the front O2 to force it into open loop. You will get a CEL and a rough idle but it should run without it if the O2 is the only issue. Mine is waiting for the new front O2 on Sat and has been driving OK without it for a few days. They only last ~100K miles. Also you may want to look at the idle air control valve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Fault codes found by the AA patrol were as follows

fault code/s:System : Engine control - 07X / MPI 2.0 Status :p0244 - Turbocharger wastegate solenoid A. Error Message : Outside specified range. Error static. Status :p0108 - Intake manifold absolute pressure sensor A. Error Message : Signal too large. Error sporadic.

Can you tell me where the o2 sensor is as I can barrow the MAF and the 02 off my brothers car to see if that's the problem
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,314 Posts
Fault codes found by the AA patrol were as follows

fault code/s:System : Engine control - 07X / MPI 2.0 Status :p0244 - Turbocharger wastegate solenoid A. Error Message : Outside specified range. Error static. Status :p0108 - Intake manifold absolute pressure sensor A. Error Message : Signal too large. Error sporadic.

Can you tell me where the o2 sensor is as I can barrow the MAF and the 02 off my brothers car to see if that's the problem
It is in the manifold before the uppipe - there is an access panel behind the front passenger wheel. You need an O2 removal tool (like a socket with a split down the side) you can rent from the auto parts store because of the wires coming out of it. PB blaster is your friend there, well ahead of time. It isn't really that hard to do, but if it were me I'd disconnect it and see what happens first. The MAF definitely swap.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,314 Posts
For the P0108 you need to diagnose it is either the sensor or supposedly an air leak will cause it. I'm guessing the latter, which would not be helping it run properly either. I'm not sure where it would isolate to, but I would check everything from the MAF (check for common tears where the inlet seats on the turbo), vacuum lines (especially those involving the BCS per the other code), intercooler hoses and gaskets on the underside, BPV itself and gaskets there. This doesn't really make sense to me, but is what people have reported working.

For the P0244 I don't think that is a BCS failure code, it is an overboost code. So, you have a leak in those lines, or you have boost creep possibly if you have no cats.

These lines are the ones that matter for that (except the one going from the BCS to the intake is less important). If pressure leaks out here it won't open the wastegate, or not as much as it should. Also the restrictor pill is required, don't lose it and make sure it is there. The T and the lines must be the correct ID too if replacing.


Edit - also it seems to me that the MAP reading excessively could be a result of overboosting as well. It makes sense to me but I haven't heard of it directly.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,314 Posts
Also I still feel like a doufus for not putting two and two together earlier as to the presence of the MAP and what it is doing as I have logged it and understood its function for many years. Getting old sucks :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Still looking for help, this has now been to 3 garages and nobody can find the problem. In fact it's got worse with a misfire on cylinder 3, tried changing the coil and changing the plugs, still no luck.

Then today checked that the plugs are sparking by leaving them out and looking at them while turning over, there's a spark so tries to run, but then it came up with a throttle body error aswell as the misfire and wont rev up.

Garage thinks we should get the ECU checked out but another guy said the chances are it wont be the ECU but an electrical fault causing the ECU to either shut down or shut the engine down. He says changing all the parts has probably upset the ECU and it will sort itself out if it goes through some start up cycles, and then go back to looking for the original problem

It's completely baffling and seems to be coming up more errors all the time. Anyone any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Problem solved!

Turned out to be one of the big wiring connector blocks near the battery, it was full of water and one of the connections was broken.

So all working fine now.

Hope this helps someone else
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top