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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Currently deployed but starting to figure out what I want to do to my WRX when I get back and wanted your opinions. I have a 2017 WRX with an axelback and running the MAP Stage 1 tune. Here is what I was thinking of going with:

Perrin Pitch Stop Mount
Perrin Pitch Stop Brace
Perrin Motor Mount Kit
Perrin Tranny Mount
Boomba Short Throw Shifter and Plate
TVG/EGR deletes
Protune

I really wanted your opinion on all the Perrin mounts. This is a daily driver and everytually I will throw on a downpipe and maybe a couple other parts. My goal is a reliable DD at no more than 320WHP. Are the Perrin mounts worth it? I have read that they help a lot with transmission slop and in my mind I think they are a good form of insurance, if that makes sense. I want to make everything sturdy before adding anymore power. Since the engine and transmission mounts are a pain to install, as well as that short throw, I can get everything installed for $1,000. Sure I could do some of it but would rather a shop do it all professionally and then have it tuned there the day after. Anyways please let me know your thoughts!
 

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hi, welcome.

if you're looking to stop engine shift slop you may want to upgrade your transmission member bushings as well.

i think beatrush and torquesolutions makes them.

torquesolutions or Ngroup are also options for engine mounts.

imo, if you have access to a lift and air tools, the transmission stuff is pretty easy.

the engine mounts are a lil harder from what i read.

good luck! post pics.
 

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BooSTIng
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Only issue I really see is that you are only running an axelback exhaust, and the only performance mods you are adding are TVG/EGR deletes it will be kind of a waste for a protune with just that. You should add an aftermarket J-pipe, finish the read of the exhaust from the J-pipe to the axelback, and even add an intake before the protune.
 

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BooSTIng
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a turbo back exhaust will be the largest jump in power off the bat than any of the other things. Yes, the things you mentioned would accent the turbo back greatly, but it all depends on his budget. I would do a turbo back before most of the other things.
 

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BooSTIng
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That may very well be true sir. I have been driving and working on subarus for over a decade, but only ones with the EJ engines. So I am not quite familiar with all the workings of the new fa20 motors. I guess facts don't lie as in that thread.
 

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I didn't browse that thread linked here but one has several dyno before and after results of intake side modifications vs exhaust and the intake showed pretty good gains over just the turbo back on the FA20.

I don't know if the wastegate is a better design, or the exhaust isn't as restrictive through the DP on the new vehicles but my reading and understanding the intake side is where most people showed the best gains.
 

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I don't know if the wastegate is a better design, or the exhaust isn't as restrictive through the DP on the new vehicles but my reading and understanding the intake side is where most people showed the best gains.
I think you bit through the shell and got down to the sweet stuff.

The old DP design was simply terrible, but it was also what allowed EJ-powered cars to pick up 40% or more torque at different points in the rev range. The new J-pipe design is significantly better at moving exhaust gases from the turbo bellhousing and out the back of the car. Subaru must now be very conscious of engine efficiency apart from just power.

On the intake side -- the FA20 heads and subsequent intake plumbing are all a much better design.
1. Bigger plenum on the manifold evens flow to each cylinder
2. Less intrusive TGVs means less intake restriction
3. Better head design with ports that have a narrower angle into the combustion chamber means that intake ports flow better than EJ design

In light of the improvements that Subaru made to how the air enters the engine, it logically follows that freeing up restriction prior to the manifold would help to produce more power and torque when additional load is demanded from the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Money isn’t an issue. I will eventually go with a down pipe, EBCS, charge pipe and all of that, but for now I just wanted a reliable stage DD with a protune. I figured getting all those mounts would be beneficial for more power mods later on. Would it really be a waste of money for a protune on an otherwise stock car? I’m getting a bit of cruise knock which is why I wanted the protune.
 

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Why do you want a protune if you're eventually gonna add upgrades that will require a new protune. That'd be a waste of money IMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Because I don't want to be driving around for the next year or two with a tune thats giving me Feedback Knock, even if its false and harmless. Think of it as piece of mind. The tune is $550. I would rather pay the $550 now and then again in 2 years and have a safe tune than something happen to my engine now and deal with that.
 

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You bought a car that is notorious for phantom knock. You're wasting your money all because you don't like the numbers you see on an AP. as long as the numbers are nothing alarming, I wouldn't but it's not my money so spend it as you see fit.
 

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OP if you want to get rid of knock the EGR, and TGV deletes are the way to go. The EGR can increase manifold temps by nearly 30+ degrees and def comes on when you're cruising. Direct injection is suppose to cool the air/fuel charge but why let it cool down the cyc from such a high temp anyways? it makes it very prone to knock. imo i rather extended the life of the engine than get a bit more mileage out of the tank.
 
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