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Discussion Starter #1
I just left happy hour raceing away... took a turn on what I knew were balding tires... How stupid of me... Well, I hit a curb with my front drivers side wheel...

Luckly I made it home and save myself the face of defeat in front of my co-workers only to discover that I took a chunk out of my stock rim... I'm so depressed... :(

I'm thinking I should probably take it to a wheel shop as soon as possible because my alignment is off a tad... I'm just glad my tire didn't burst and I couldn't make it home... Things seem to be holding up, but my rim looks like crap!

I was thinking about getting new rims any ways and keeping the stock as winter wheels, now I don't even know about that...

Can anyone suggest what size rim I should look at getting for a replacement, and if a tire shop will install them at a reasonable price and fix my alignment...

I'm thinking that ordering off the internet is a good option. I need new tires, and I guess now new rims... Or, can I get a single rim to replace this one at a junk yard?

Can anyone provide me with some encouragement? I know I pulled one hell of an ass-hole move...

:(
 

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Couple of things:

You can buy a single oem rim- look at the private for sale here, nasioc and i-club. Also put a "ad" in the private wanted for all three. Also tire rack used to sell used oem rims for $75+ shipping- check w/ them. No sense buying a whole new set (unless you want to) if you only ruined one.

Get new tires, but good ones- your tires are easily the most important thing you can upgrade on the WRX- nothing comes close.

Lastly- get an alignment. It's possible there is more damage than just the rim (strut/tie rod/control arm to mention a few). An alignment should point to other potential trouble, if there is any.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, great advice

I'm feeling better about my mistake now. Your advice is great, thanks for the reply Big Sky.

I know I need to get tires, can anyone reccomend a good shop online and a good sport/winter tire that'll help me take the turns again with a little more style? I don't want to break the budget, but nothing cheep will do.

Thanks

c0dy
 

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I don't run all seasons (dedicated summer and winter tires), but there are a couple of threads on all seasons floating around. I do know there are some vast improvements to be had over the 92's, might check into the RE950's as one possibility.

Big Sky
 

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Discussion Starter #5
New Tires

Ok, I took a look at the tires you suggested and am bidding on a rim on Ebay. I actually hope I don't win it because I really think I should just pay the extra 30 bucks for a new one.

I was looking at the

Potenza RE950

That you suggested and a few other forums. I also found this tire that I like

Dunlop SP Winter Sport M2

I think I like the Dunlop because I live in Minnesota and the Bridgestone only claims light snow.

Should I be able to get online prices from someone local if I haggle? Or should I the rim and tires over the internet and drive them over to Tires Plus. Or something like that.

Also, are there better places to shop online than the dealer link I provided above.

c0dy
 

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The Dunlop is a dedicated winter tire (as are Blizzak's/Nokian's, others) these are great in winter and I highly reccomend getting them for winter driving. They're not really meant/designed to be driven in the summer, thus my suggestion for a dedicated "summer" and "winter" tires. An all season by it's very name, is a compromise tire- no matter how good.

The RE92 is a all season tire, the RE950 is too- just a better one.

I just thought of a better tire- look at the Pirelli P Zero Nero mud and snow- this may be just the ticket for you. Good handling, still able to function pretty well in the winter as well.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Pirelli&tireModel=PZero+Nero+M&S

You can try local shops- just remember that tire rack price's don't include shipping (they let you figure how much), they don't include mounting and balancing either- so these need to be figured in as well. Most shops (if they can get the tires you want) will haggle.

Big Sky
 

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Discussion Starter #7
New tires and rim on they way

I've ordered the P Zero Nero M+S off of tirerack.com. I also won my bid on ebay for a rim. It has a little curb rash, but better than the "curb ate a chunk" of my rim. And it was only $50.00 shipped.

I've been calling around to some tire places. And it seems $159.00 for Mounting/Disposal/Balencing/and Alignment is the best I can do so far from Good Year.

I don't know if I should keep calling around to find a better deal. I'm usually the guy who tries to get the bottom dollar on every deal w/o sacrificing quality or service.

Cody
 

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Four wheel alignment usually is in the $50-70ish range, mount and balance $40-50ish- don't know on disposal, sounds a little high to me, but the main thing is you want a good shop. Someimes tirerack reccomends shops- might be worth checking that.

$50 shipped is a good deal on a rim- even w/ a little curb rash.

Big Sky
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ouch

Well, I got the new rim and the new wheels on the car, but when went to do the alignment they found the frame needed pulling. Sh*t! Just great... Aparently, the front left wheel sits about an inch behind the front right now.

I talked to one individual on the phone who said it could cost about $250.00 to get it on the machine at a minimum cost. But that there could be parts that need replacing, such as struts.

I'm going to stay optomistic and believe that once its on the machine, everything will be ok and nothing else needed. This is definatly the last time I ignore getting new tires until it is too late.

I do have a few questions though. About how much should I expect to pay for the frame pull? I can probably find this out from calling around, which I plan on doing tonight. Secondly, after a frame pull is there anything to worry about as far as the structural integrity of the vehicle? It does not reduce the resale value of the vehicle having had damage to the frame, does it? Could the car be damaged further by driving it? Currently, everything seems just fine as it was before, with the exception of the car pulling to the left and the steering wheel being not centered by a couple inches.

I suppose after I pay my $250.00 my car will be ship-shape and back to normal? Here's to being optomistic!
 

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I don't know about "frame" pulling, but it sounds like there is a very good chance the front control arm is tweaked- that would cause the wheel to sit back. You could also have a stur that is bent. The only possible "frame" item that I can think of that might be tweaked is the front cross member- usually the arm goes before the cross member.

I'd be a little leary of a "frame" pulling.

If this is under insurance- have them replace everything- that;s what most shops do- less labor/guess work. If not, the only way to do it is replace obvious bent/tweaked pieces- realign- if everything looks good your done. If not, more bits need replaced, realigned, etc.

Good luck.

Big Sky
 

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No need to pull the frame. You're better off replacing the cross member if needed, as it is not very expensive, marginally more than pulling, and will result in your car being straight from a frame perspective. The cross members, (3), are sectioned for rally purposes, allowing for quick repairs in case of an accident during stages. Fortunately, this nifty tech-bit managed to find its way into all WRX's, meaning that even in case of pretty severe accidents, it can be repaired and run straight, without you being able to tell the difference.

6 weeks after I first got mine, a guy flew through a stop sign, hit me on my passenger front, took off almost half my front from the license plate to the a-pillar. It got repaired, so well, that when I took my car in for service, they were unable to tell that it was in an accident, as nothing had pull-marks or tell-tale signs of bodywork, due to everything being replaceable,
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Big Sky WRX said:
...it sounds like there is a very good chance the front control arm is tweaked- that would cause the wheel to sit back. You could also have a stur that is bent. ...

If this is under insurance- have them replace everything- that;s what most shops do- less labor/guess work. If not, the only way to do it is replace obvious bent/tweaked pieces- realign- if everything looks good your done. If not, more bits need replaced, realigned, etc.

Good luck.

Big Sky [/B]
Jeeze... That is rough... I only have a $1000 deductable on my car currently, and I hope I don't have to inform my insurance company. I read your Tutorial on Aluminum control arm install. I really hope it is not that. I'll get under there tonight and take a look at the arm and see if I see anything noticeable. I hope I don't have to shell out $800.00 for a new control arm. I wanted to buy new rims and tires. Now that I didn't buy new tires I am paying for it times 10!

I'm going to print your article and look for one on the strut now... Then I'm on to research ej20fan's suggestions...
 

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Be calm, don't buy a new control arm. You'll be able to find a perfectly good one at the junkyard for less than half of that. You'll never know the difference if the new a-arm is straight.

I recentlt destroyed my front passenger side, pulled the a-arm, strut and sway bar. The parts, used, were less than $1000. I'm sure mine was much worse than yours. Stop by a bodyshop, as they'll likely know what to look for, and where to get it cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Calm

Thanks man for your help and time... I really appreciate both. I'm looking for info on the cross members and pricing. I appreciate the direction.

Like I said before I did some research on the control arm. Now I'm looking for stuff on the cross members, and I will also look more into the struts.

I want to get a basic idea of pricing and of the amount of labor because I plan on taking the car into the dealership and getting them to look at it. I basically want to walk away with a small labor bill, a parts list and estimate for work. I don't think I want the dealership to do the work unless the estimate comes back cheep. I may take it to a body shop with my own parts. If I am replacing parts I don't know if I just want stock parts again. I plan on keeping this car around for awhile. Hopefully, if after I pay it off I will be driving something else and keeping this car for fun, but that is another tangent.

ej20fan, I looked up your profile and saw that you are going to Pepperdine Law school. That's really cool! Both of my girl friend's parents went to Pepperdine too. My girl friend will be starting Optometry school at Cal State Fullerton next spring or fall. I will also be moving to the area probably and can't wait. Right now I'm in Minnesota writing software until then and hope to get my masters in Computer Science while working (maybe from Fullerton).
 

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Hope everything will be worked out. i have aluminum control arms sitting in my room, im still deciding if i should install them or not =P
they have been in my room since the beginning of the year :rolleyes:

when ever you move out here with your GF (fullerton area) you will love it out here =)

remember the same OEM part can be founded cheaper on the internet.
 

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Here's a link w/ the schematic. You can add a part to your basket and it will give price and part#.

http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?model=5A&year=2002&style=WRX&body=sedan&scn=2&category=200-1

You should be able to buy everything used- somebody has done the same thing only on the other side.

I upgraded to aluminum arms on my 02 when I had my little off course excursion:rolleyes: ~$300 buys a pair of aluminum arms, includes front bushings/rear bushings/ball joints and hardware. For me it was a no brainer- I even sold my good oem arm for $100, so for $200 I was into aluminum arms.

When you look at the arm- get good light. Look for a crease, rasied paint, etc- mine was obvious some aren't.

Big Sky
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Awsome, nice link

Thanks everyone for the help. I really appreciate it.

I really wish I had my own garage. If and when I get moved to California I hope to have some more space. Right now I barely have enough room to park my car much less for tools.

I'll have to settle for the Subaru dealership's professional inspection of the damage. Then I can rely on myself to find the parts cheaper on the internet and another shop to install them. I doubt the dealership would approve of me bringing in after-market parts for them to put on! haha :D

Thanks for all your help. I now feel prepaired for what to expect to hear at the dealership and enough to let them know I'm not clueless. Now I just got to get it in there...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Cross members question

From that link, what is the difference with S.WRX and W.WRX.
 
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