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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm looking at getting a boost gauge soon (probably ordering tonight or tomorrow). Just wondering who has installed one, as I am wondering how difficult it is? I still haven't decided if I want electric or mechanical, but I'm assuming electric would be a bit easier to install, and possibly more reliable/accurate? (along w/expensive :p)

Amazing that as long as I have been playing with cars, I have never installed a gauge...

So...Any views on this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
All I really know is electric are a LOT more expensive.

I'm debating btwn a boost gauge or up-pipe, but I won't have enough to have the up-pipe installed right away, and I don't want to do it myself.
 

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I got the autometer mechanical it wasnt to hard to install just tricky.I needed to get a t-fitting which I tapped into the Bov line.It was tricky getting the tube through the firewall to the t-fitting,everything else was a snap.and for the lighting I tapped into the dimming fuse.
 

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Autometer gauges usually come with a plastic T and the vacuum hose, plus the fittings needed to attach the hose to the gauge. The supplied T was a waste of time, so I went out and purchased some brass npt fittings from Napa.

-Pace
 

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I just installed my Autometer boost guage last weekend. It was a snap, very easy to do except...

The guage comes with 6 feet of plastic crap tubing and the crush fittings for each end (which wasn't long enough for me). Mine did not come with a T fitting though, and this was the hardest part. I ended up just scraping their tubing for better vacuume hose along with a brass threaded T fitting from NAPA auto parts. Then, for the barbed push on hose connectors, I had to go to Orchard Supply and look for like an hour to find the correct ones. In the end, I scraped both of the Crush fittings for barbed nipples, and their plastic tube for REAL tubing.

The guage is in my aftermarket Subaru Dash pod and looks sweet! Just need to get a face plate made for the pod.
 

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I've installed Greddy mech and elec

and also Defi gauges

to be honest...

I think elec gauges looks smoother...needle movement and accuracy.

Defi gauges uses daisy-chain system, all of the sensor goes to one box and one output comes off the box to one gauge, from that gauge it daisy chain to the next...very very easy and convient.

you can check them out here..

www.defi-shop.com

hope this helps..

Tommy
 

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I installed an AutoMeter boost gauge this weekend. It was quite straight forward. I found a plastic T-fitting for the BOV line at Home Depot and plan to mount a cup to the clock panel on the dash, but currently the gauge is just hanging from the tube.

I am a little confused about the boost readings I am getting and hope I could get some feedback from others:

Idle: 20 InHg Vac (I think that's normal)
Crusing: around 0
Normal Acceleration: 6 PSI
Hard Acceleration: 9 - 14 PSI depending on gear

What I am confused about are the magical 6 PSI that I am getting most of the time. Is it just my definition of "normal acceleration" or is there something else behind it? I have to practically floor it to get anthing above 6 PSI.

I am thinking of changing the installation and measure the pressure at the output of the turbo instead of the intake, since I am mainly interested in what the turbo gives me and not how far I open the throttle. Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I installed an autometer in that exact place, ahaha

Once I figured out how to get the pressure tubing where I needed it, I was good to go.

As far as readings, I get pretty much the same as what you are getting. 20InHg idle, 0 cruise, 6psi under regular accel, and 9-14 under hard accel.
 

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I think the wastegate dumps at 6-7psi? not too sure...

you can read what the turbo puts out, but that wouldn't really help because thats not the pressure going into the manifold, but I think it is possible?

sorry couldn't be more help...

Tommy
 

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My installation now looks quite similar to yours, Dave, except that I mounted the cup to the lower level of the clock panel, in the curvature towards the drivers side, left of the clock diplay. I did not use the mounting clip and support that came with the cup, but instead did put a little screw trough the cup and the panel with a piece of ruber in between. Was quite tricky, but almost reversible, in case I don't like it later.
 
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