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Discussion Starter #1
ok so i decided I am gonna throw some mods at the car..This is what i plan on doing..nothing crazy but enough to make it more fun then stock
AVO intercooler
grimspeed EBC
Cobb Stage 1
Cobb intake
Cobb light crank pulley
Shifter bushings
STi trans mount
RaceComp 3/4" regular guy lowering springs
nameless axle back delete
Wheels
So thats all parts I plan on doing to the car in no particular order but exhaust and AP are first
 

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ok so i decided I am gonna throw some mods at the car..This is what i plan on doing..nothing crazy but enough to make it more fun then stock
AVO intercooler
grimspeed EBC
Cobb Stage 1
Cobb intake
Cobb light crank pulley
Shifter bushings
STi trans mount
RaceComp 3/4" regular guy lowering springs
nameless axle back delete
Wheels
So thats all parts I plan on doing to the car in no particular order but exhaust and AP are first
If you don't already have the Cobb AP I would highly recommend getting a tactrix cable and go with a torqued performance stage 1 map. With the difference in cost you could pay for a few extras. I was a little worried about installing the map with my laptop but it was very simple and the TP stage 1 is (apparently) better performing than Cobb. Just my $.02 but either way I think you'll be happy with the difference between stock and stage 1. The fact that Eric from TP modifies the OTS tune after you send him logs sealed the deal, so it's probably as close to a custom tune as you can get for $85 (clearly a custom tune with dyno would be better - but there's no shop within 4 hours of me).
 

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i was thinking about that tactrix but I dont have a laptop
Well, considering an AP is $600, and Tactrix cables are under $200, that leaves you $400 for a laptop, which will get you a surprisingly decent one these days. Personally, I have the Cobb, but I can see the advantages of opensource as well, and a laptop is decidedly more useful than an AP on its own, lol.
 

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i was thinking about that tactrix but I dont have a laptop
Tactrix $170, cheap laptop from Best Buy $300, tune from TP $85 = $555 - still save a little off the Cobb AP and you'd have a shiny new laptop (probably not great but effecient for internet use). You could also just use a friends laptop but you'd probably want to do logs now and again so you would probably be borrowing it a few times. Cobb AP may be your best bet, unless you'd use the laptop a decent amount.

Also I think you can log just using the cable and an SD card, so maybe it would be okay to borrow a friends laptop. I've never used that function though.
 

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Stg2 wouldn't push the car too hard or far, anything over that, I wouldn't take it too far. I'm at stg2 and I'm 100% happy with it.

My only suggestion to your mods list is that these: AVO intercooler grimspeed EBC, are rather useless in a stg1 set up. There's no need for an IC if you are only stg1, same with a EBC.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well the intercooler would most likely be the last purchase so I guess by that point I will have made up my mind if i am gonna go stage 2 or not
 

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I would do...none of that. Every mod you have listed is rather useless for a stage 1 setup. They also aren't really compatible with a stage 1 tune anyway. I'd much rather get a protune for what you have listed. You'd be happier with a downpipe and stage 2 tune overall.
 

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Captain James of the SS Impreza has gone down with
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Stg 2 gets better mileage too :)
Not always true. That will be determined by how aggressive you go.

maybe i will get the tatrix and exhaust first instead of the AP
Get on the local forums over on NASIOC. You can track down a tuner close to you. It's going to be better thany any OTS map you get.
 

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You have an aftermarket Intercooler listed and EBCS, why wouldn't you have already listed a custom tune? I would suggest a DP far before another intercooler.

Also, Perrin EBCS is easier to tune than the GS unit.
 

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Yeah all those mods on the engine are kinda pointless if you aren't planning stage 2 with a DP. How far you push you car depends on how far and for how long you mash the right pedal.

If throw a downpipe in to the mix, skip the AP and just go for a protune...it will yield the best results and provide the best driveability.
 

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you're doing it wrong

get your shifter stuff sorted (bushings and short throw if you dont already have it), then throw a stage 1 tune on it (preferably a pro tune).

all the other stuff is useless unless you get a DP, but when you decide you want to go stage 2 (which you will, once you feel the difference between stock and stage 1), then just get an entire turboback with the supporting bolt-ons in one shot so you only have to get dyno tuned once.
 
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