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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 02 bugeye, completely stock with high mileage. I would like a general consensus on what brand and type are favored from you guys for these different applications... i am a new Scooby owner, but can manage my Mechanical work. ENTIRE life of car was cared for at dealership. Any fluids would have been from them and their standard.
So,
1. Transmission (5spd manual) I would like to flush and refill. I have notice a heavy winding sound on decel.. shifts just fine except for 1st.
2. Front control arm bushings (The S shaped ones on the lower rear portion of the CA) these are worn and leaking oil.
3. Transmission mounts*
4. Differential mounts*
5. Motor mounts*

*these are due to severe backlash in my drivetrain.. If there is another mount or part that would pertain to this please feel free to list.

I would also consider a Full Kit to refresh the front suspension.

Thanks Ahead fellas!
 

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Buy an authentic Subaru crush washer for the gearbox, and use regular Valvoline 75W-90.

Contact RCE for all suspension stuff I'd say. Search Group N (why doesn't anyone use the GrN abbreviation any more?!) mounts for the gearbox and the motor. There is a lock kit for the rear diff (if it were less expensive it would be called a "bolt").
 

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If the struts haven't been replaced in the last 60,000 miles I would replace them too, along with the top hats.



Turn in Concepts makes a complete suspension bushing refresh kit if you're interested. I just installed it on my car and it made a considerable difference.. feels like a new car. Old Bush New Bush Refresh
 

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Group N mounts for the engine and transmission should help that. If they aren't enough you can get the rear diff lock down kit. I've got the Perrin one on my car, it comes with bushings and bolts to take some of the slack out of the drivetrain. After that there are one piece drive shafts you can get that also help reduce slack even further..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Buy an authentic Subaru crush washer for the gearbox, and use regular Valvoline 75W-90.

Contact RCE for all suspension stuff I'd say. Search Group N (why doesn't anyone use the GrN abbreviation any more?!) mounts for the gearbox and the motor. There is a lock kit for the rear diff (if it were less expensive it would be called a "bolt").

Couldnt find anything on google with Group N

Group N mounts for the engine and transmission should help that. If they aren't enough you can get the rear diff lock down kit. I've got the Perrin one on my car, it comes with bushings and bolts to take some of the slack out of the drivetrain. After that there are one piece drive shafts you can get that also help reduce slack even further..
Was thinkin of getting that lockdown kit..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK, I need a quick answer... The Bushing that is is BAD on my car is the one that is on the control arm that has an S-shaped housing. This is called the Front Control Arm Bushing Rear / or FCABR? Am I right?
This was another problem along with the driveline bushings and just wanted to get everything at once from TiC. Thanks ahead
 

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OK, I need a quick answer... The Bushing that is is BAD on my car is the one that is on the control arm that has an S-shaped housing. This is called the Front Control Arm Bushing Rear / or FCABR? Am I right?
This was another problem along with the driveline bushings and just wanted to get everything at once from TiC. Thanks ahead
That is the one at the rear of the front control arm - it is an S shaped housing. I run the whiteline anti-lift kit which replaces that with a new eccentric bushing in a housing (you don't have to press it). It is not conducive if you want to autocross in a reasonable class, and requires spacing the subrame down with the included parts, but it does really nice things to your suspension geometry.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok Fellas, its been a while but i just installed;
-Tic Diff Lockdown Race kit,
-Group n 5MT mount
-5mt X-member Bushings (Cherry Blossom RED)
-Energy Suspension MASTER hyperflex kits, (Cherry Blossom RED)
Takes turns twice as well as before, and no more loose rattling control arms.
HOWEVER, there is still Slack or Backlash in the car! WTH!!! I thought the Poly kit would tighten all of the loose points... So bummed... I know of a few points that werent included in my poly kit, but didnt think that they would do anything to help the back lash... One that was up the list was Motor mounts.. could those cause a ton of lash>?
 

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There is slop in the driveshaft at the u joints.. since the factory driveshaft is in two pieces, often replacing it with an aftermarket unit that is one solid piece will help reduce slop in the driveline. I'm not sure, but this may be what you're feeling.

I've got a lead on a cheap barely used DSS aluminum driveshaft I could send your way if you want. I was going to purchase it, but I'm going to have to upgrade to the six speed before long anyways, which uses a different driveshaft. Plus I'm going to go ahead and spring for the CF driveshaft rather than aluminum when I do get there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So, The Driveshaft could be the culprit? What about the gearbox? Could my gears just be getting worn down? Does that even happen?
 

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So, The Driveshaft could be the culprit? What about the gearbox? Could my gears just be getting worn down? Does that even happen?
It isn't your gears.

Mine still does it a little but did you do the actual differential mount bushings? Those make a big difference and are needed. Engine mounts not so much if you did the trans. mount that end should be secure.

I agree it probably is the actual carrier bearing or the U joints in between the two pieces of the drive shaft (it is on mine). However, when I read up on it the replacement aftermarket drive shafts require significantly modifying the floor pan with a BFH. The carbon fiber one supposedly is a nice improvement performance wise as well however.
 

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I can't find a link to that TIC kit (differential lock down) - what was included.

Also - don't forget you need an alignment now ASAP or your tires will likely be toast. The factory specs suck - here is what you want. Click the blue arrow in the quote to go to the sticky and read more.

For a good "street" setup, camber in the front from -1.0 - -1.5 (achieved w/ the oem bolts) and camber in the rear from-1.0 (must have camber bolts/plates to achieve this) to oem -1.3, w/ 0 toe is a very good all-around setup.

If autox/track days start entering the mix then increasing front camber via plates should be considered, as increasing caster.

Toe I would only change if you know exactly what you want and only after trying 0 first,

Big Sky
 

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Thanks, Im already on the alignment. Thats in the works for tomorrow. heres the link to the TiC bushings
TiC Klunk Killer - RACE
It did make a difference, but not huge.
Ah, I see now. You should try the subframe lockdown kit if all of that is installed (it does include the diff mount already). It keeps the whole subframe from shifting around, and since the diff mount is attached to that....

You'll get some really weird noises when engine braking down hills with that stiff of a mount bushing - just ignore them.

If they can't get you below -1 front camber, they need to loosen the other strut lower mount bolt.
 

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However, when I read up on it the replacement aftermarket drive shafts require significantly modifying the floor pan with a BFH.


That's only for the fat 3" aluminum driveshaft. A CF driveshaft, chromoly driveshaft, or even a steel driveshaft will be strong enough in a small enough diameter to not require any modification to make it fit.
 

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TIC
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok, Im a little confused. I installed the Outrigger bushings that came with the kit. I saw the other mounting points of the chassis, However, I do not see anywhere in TiC a part for sale that is called the Subframe kit, Only the one for the outrigger, which i already have.. Would another brand carry these that you would reccomend? Im goin on the hunt for em now.
 
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