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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
These paltes replace your strut tops allowing ~ 1.5 additional degrees of positive caster and ~ 1.0 additional degrees of camber (over what you are able to obtain w/ the oe eccentric bolts).

First you need to remove the struts- you need to unbolt the two bottom strut bolts (19mm), before you do mark the top one- this is the eccentric bolt. On the bolt side there are hash marks on the bolt and an alignment mark on the strut- scribe the bolt to get you back to where you were (even though you will be getting an alignment). There are the brake line and speed sensor which also needs removed form the strut- 12mm. On top there are three 12 mm nuts holding the strut to the firewall- remove these. Gently remove the strut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You need to have the tops orientated correctly or you won't get the full caster adj (unles you prefer more camber change).

Plates will be orientated like this w/ Noltec towards the inside of the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The large brass washer goes into the bottom
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Next whatever top your currently using needs to be removed. You will need spring compressors to do this- cheap or you can even rent them. Compress the spring and then remove the top nut (17mm)- you'll alos need a 6mm allen wrench to prevent the top fropm spinning- if your using air it will usually come off w/o the allen wrench. You will not reutilize the domed shape washer- not needed- I think this is where many experience an additional 1/8" in ride height in the front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
With the old top off you can install the Noltec plate (properly orientated), also make sure that the three holes on the upper spring perch are orientated facing out, w/ the middle hole centered on the strut.

Partially tighten top nut w/ 17mm wrench, and 6mm allen, undo spring compressors, finish tightening top nut
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Reinstall strut (again paying attention to top orientation), reinstall bottm bolts, brake line, speed sensor, the top nuts are now 13mm- torque to 18.5 ft lbs, bottom bolts are: 129 ft lbs!, top nut is 41 lbs.

Get an alignment as you want cross caster and camber values zero, also increasing camber has chnaged your toe setting.

Installed:
 

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Good writeup, but mine don't have the markings. Guess I'll have to eyeball it. I'll definitely have to print it out before installing them.

chris
 

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Talk about bringing a thread back from the dead... :eek3:

Big Sky, I will be installing these next week with my springs, but I'm not clear about what happens when everything is on car and I want to adjust the caster/camber. Is just the middle bolt loosened? Or do you loosen the outer three, or both??? I've been thinking about this while I'm out of town for X-mas.

Sorry for the noob questions...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The middle (big) nut secures the top to the strut- that one stays put. The three outer ones "sandwich" the top of the strut, by loosening these you can then move the top of the strut any direction- like a joy stick.

I think you'll find to move it though the car will have to be up in the air (ie tires off the ground).

What I would reccoemend is have them pre-set for maximum neg camber and positive caster- pushed all the way in and all the way back.

Then when you get your alignment you (the "tech") can fine tune the camber w/ the oe eccentric bolts, if your cross caster is off (a couple of tenths is fine) then you can have them lift the front and loosen one side to make the adjustment.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
GetawayInBouldr said:
Back from the dead!

Hey BigSky, do you recall how much these camber plates raised your ride height in the front?
ballpark ~ 6-8mm
 
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