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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just installed VF30 over Labor Day weekend(+inj, and pump). This took me from TXS stage 3 to their stage 4. I am using a unichip but keep listening. The only non TXS component is my autospeed stainless/flex u.p. Stock airbox w/silencer removal TXS catless tbe. My TD04 oil seal failed and was causing major oil burning, so I upgraded(;) ). I drove to TXS and got U-chip reflashed while I waited, and installed the VH30 and etc. w/ no problems over weekend. Car ran great from the start. I primed the turbo before starting(using synthetic) and all was good. I drove it under 8psi to and from work for 550mi. before finally checking 4th gear boost curve. I was a little low and have it dialed perfectly in now. Have a total of 850mi. on turbo. One 3rd -4 gear-throttle pinned to 6800rpm or so. Now I'm getting occassional oil burning. Same scenerio as with my td04 failure(exactly the same). I'm trying to figure out why, since going to st.3 w/ S.S uppipe, I'm blowing turbo seals. It startedshortly after this was added(proper mods and map by TXS). I have two obvious possibilities I'd like to throw at you guys.
First, There is not enough heat retention in either the stainless uppipe/downpipe or the two combined is just too much. Or second, the stage 3 map of 16.5 psi is too great for stock turbo and I screwed up the VF 30 break in by using synthetic oil.
I'm looking at having to spend another $700+ on turbo + heat wrap $. I would love to ditch the u-chip but definately not in budget now. Turbo was from a very reputable vendor and came in the IHI box. Not a fake. Can you guys give me some advice aside from ditching the u-chip. I get no boost spike and really have not beaten on this thing at all.

Thanks,
Eric

edit- I have used this u-chip since I started w/ stage 1(TXS) and have been happy w/st.4 smoothness compared to previous maps-1,2,and 3. I could have spent the cost of the 2 Vf30's(debating 2nd one) on a PE1818:mad: . This oil seal failure is keeping me awake at night. I'd sell the car if I spent $ on PE1818 and this happens again. And I'm considering the 1818 and a dyno'd ECU reflash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Like I said, this is keeping me awake.
Thinking to self-"Put the beer down and think". When I answer myself I will go to bed.
 

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how many miles? Are you sure its the turbo, not the oil control rings, valve guides/stem seals? I suggest doin a leakdown or a wet/dry compression test to be sure its not something internal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Had a compression/leak test performed before going to VF30. I had oil all in downpipe and all over exhaust turbine(impeller) when I removed downpipe/turbo. . No way it would go away for 800+mi then suddenly reappear if internal damage was the culprit. I am certain it has something to do w/ heat retention loss(oxymoron or whatever) or the synthetic oil breakin. I found very little info to back up my theory while searching(everywhere) other than others having IHI seal failures(very rare) and with no definitive explanation of what the cause/cure was. Heat wrap was mentioned and so was(big debate) the break in of turbo w/ synthetic oils. This is a sleeve bearing not roller. I have seen advertisements from turbo manufacturers where they say how they" flow test their turbos w/ high grade synthetic oil" to test each turbo individually. This is why I'm asking for help, internally I'm O.K, I just keep destroying turbo oil seals(twice now, most recent after 800+mi.),. I don't want to go the more expensive/ better route w/o verifying or at least have been convinced of possible remedy. I should have mentioned I had compression test performed, one less possible cause. Sorry for the neglect of this info. No loss of power at all. No CEL's. Nothing but oil smoke at idle after 2-3 minutes only(see my previous post a month ago for td04 problem/drove me nuts). I drove the td04 for a while like this and it got really bad. The VF30 is just starting to smoke.

Thanks
 

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i know that this sounds basic but i figured i would throw it out there.

have you checked the oil lines to the turbo making sure that the oil is not leaking from them? a better clamp may need to be used. i had a similar problem with my vf30 with the coolant leaking.
 

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Sounds very similar to is2scooby's problem with his VF30. I believe the oil seal was the culprit. I cant remember if he def. had it rebuilt or replaced.

I broke in my VF 34 with synthetic and didnt wait too long before working it hard (different bearing on one side though). It would appear that you just have a string of bad luck with turbo seals :( Hopefully that's the case, because the other causes for burning oil would be much worse.

It may be time to look into some other turbo options (FP, PE, etc ...)

Bump for more ideas.
 

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JRod said:
Sounds very similar to is2scooby's problem with his VF30. I believe the oil seal was the culprit. I cant remember if he def. had it rebuilt or replaced.

I broke in my VF 34 with synthetic and didnt wait too long before working it hard (different bearing on one side though). It would appear that you just have a string of bad luck with turbo seals :( Hopefully that's the case, because the other causes for burning oil would be much worse.

It may be time to look into some other turbo options (FP, PE, etc ...)

Bump for more ideas.
Yep, is2scooby had the same problems as you are describing above. Read here:

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15517&highlight=VF30+oil+seal

Since IHI does not make a rebuild kit for the VF30, and since he lives in Hawaii, he had to have a tractor machine company rebuild it or something. It worked for a while, but finally it gave way and he had to replace it.

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I know I would be more than pissed if I bought a new turbo and it went belly up before the 1000 mile mark.
 

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perhaps the problem is that you used synthetic to break it in....

Synthetic oil is excellent for it's protection qualities, but not so great for break in for the very same reason... It is just too damn slippery to allow for the proper mating of new parts that you want during break in. My feelings is that the oil is making it past your turbo seals also. Perhaps you should try going back to normal conventional oil for 2 or 3K miles just to give your turbo the chance to get worked in properly, and then switch back to synthetic....

This is the same thing that was suggested to me by 2 mechanics from 2 different cities I went to....

I am still running conventional motor oil in my engine, and it had an 1820 strapped on it. It has been on for about 4K miles so far, and will be making the switch to synthetic soon now that I am positive that it is WELL broken in, and not leaking...

The reson for all of this is similar to why they never recommend that you switch to synthetic too soon.... It basically stops the parts from forming that break-in seal that is vital to longevity.... In fact, engines that are switched to synthetic too soon tend to become oil burners, since the synthetic oil makes it past the rings easily:D
 

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Do you know what oil pressure you are getting? It is also possible that the oil restrictor on the turbo is damaged or out of spec, which might allow too much oil pressure in, which I suppose could give the seals some problems.

It could just be a bad seal. Unfortunately, it is possible, as failures usually occur soon on new parts or after a long time due to wear and such.

TRS
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have switched to convential oil in hopes of improving things. I have noticed less intermittent smoke(oil) in the 600 mi. I have been a little mor agressive in throttle inputs in hopes of breaking the seals in. I am convinced it was the synthetic oil seeping past the oil seals in turbo. I'm gonna do two 3kmi. changes w/conventional oil then go back to synthetic. If it smokes again, Will switch back. Thanks for all the help. I'll update.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update

All seems well now. No oil burning whatsoever. End of Oct. I'm gonna go synthetic-blend(partial synthetic). The oil seals didn't like Mobil1 at first. Now I know:)
 
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