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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,
While I've been reading and researching on the site for a while now, I just joined as I purchased my first WRX last week as a project car for me and my son. I am familiar with the brand and car having worked for Subaru about ten years ago, but this is my first WRX. The car is a 2013 WRX hatchback (base) with 108k miles. It has a Cobb CAI, Cobb AP w/Stage 1 OTS tune, SPT catback, and new ACT clutch. Unfortunately, the engine likely needs replacement as the previous owner experienced a catastrophic failure due to low oil ("diagnosis" by his mechanic was failed turbo seal), hence the "project."

My last project was a 1993 300zx twin turbo with about 425rwhp (upgraded turbocharges, intercoolers, injectors, fuel pump, yadda yadda), but was sold due to two seats, growing family, etc. My goals for this car are quite a bit more mild: Maintain as much reliability as possible (obviously maintenance and driving style will play a large role in this) while making mild upgrades to performance. We plan to have the engine out in the next few weeks and will know more then, but so far our plan is:

Engine Replacement:
1) New OEM shortblock (head resurfacing and valve job as required, assuming no damage to heads)
2) Rebuild turbo as required (any good mods here to consider?)
3) New gaskets/seals (head, intake/exhaust, water pump, oil pump)
4) New oil pump
5) New water pump
6) New thermostat
7) New timing belt
8) ARP studs
9) NGK iridium plugs (one step colder?)
10) New oil filter and break-in oil

Likely "phase 1" mods (easier while engine is out):
1) Air/Oil Separator (Cobb v3?)
2) Air pump delete (no EGR, correct?)
3) TGV delete (any cold start issues? I live in the midwest :) )
4) Killer B oil pickup tube (is the baffle worth considering as well?)
5) Any other mounts/bushings or parts to replace/upgrade while engine is out?

"Phase 2" planned mods (once engine work is ready):
1) Catted downpipe
2) Stage 2+ pro tune
3) Would an ECBS be smart/needed?

Future mods:
1) Swaybars/endlinks
2) Shifter bushings
3) Short shifter?
4) S/S brake lines (possible upgrades later)
5) Winter wheel/tire setup
6) Misc. cosmetic mods (tail light vinyl, footwell lighting, etc.)

If you've read this far I sincerely appreciate it. Any advice and/or recommendations for parts to consider replacing and/or upgrading (or deleting) would be great. Frankly I don't want to save a few (or several) hundred dollars if it means missing an opportunity to improve the lifespan and driveability of the car. Thanks in advance!
 

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Sounds like you've got a solid plan. You don't need an ebc but your tuner may want you to have one.

It may be worth looking into fueling stuff too. When I had my car done the intake and exhaust put the car at the limit of the stock fuel system capability. It was enough to run, but there was little to no overhead. I decided to scrap an intake just to keep my injector duty down.

There is no egr, but the air pump is prone to failures, not having it will fail inspection, but it doesn't hurt or help anything in the end. The TGV however I would disappear. Makes cold idle rough but has no other adverse effect.

I'd go through and do all of the suspension bushings and look into replacing the struts with koni inserts. I'd also throw on some SS brake lines. You'll want to check the firewall around the brake and clutch for splitting of the spot welds. If it needs reinforced easier to do it then.
 

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Sounds like a solid plan, I am new to my wrx as well, about a year now as my daily driver. This is not engine related, but I have a kartboy short throw shifter with bushings, and a white line positive shift kit (transmission mount bushings basically). I did this with the car completely stock. It made the riding experience completely sick. Nice notchy shifts, and first gear “slow parking lot driving” a pleasure.
 

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Oh and a cylinder 4 cooling mod wouldn’t be a bad idea. And while everything is off, a good silicone turbo inlet. I have yet to install my cylinder 4 yet (torque solutions) I am in the middle of troubleshooting a boost leak. Inlet was quite the chore on my 2010 wrx hatch with the ej255. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reply XJman. Thankfully in MI we don’t have emissions testing, one less thing to worry about. Wondering if I should go back to the stock intake if it means having to do injectors and fuel pump....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Hatchman, I will look into the cyl4 cooling mod, at first glance looks like there isn’t any down side to trying it? I was looking at the inlets, probably time to replace anyway (probably do the rad hoses too).
 

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You won't HAVE to, but you'll be leaving power on the table. Id1050x injectors run ~550 bucks and a walbro 255lph pump is about 100. It's an affordable upgrade if you are going the pro tune route.
 

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Thanks Hatchman, I will look into the cyl4 cooling mod, at first glance looks like there isn’t any down side to trying it? I was looking at the inlets, probably time to replace anyway (probably do the rad hoses too).
The only mod that really helps is an equal length header. In the end it's not cheap and judging by your build list i wouldn't necessarily jump at it. If I'm not mistaken it will take the factory up pipe but I may be wrong. If I am you'd probably then be in rotated turbo territory.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah I really don’t want to go that far (header), I’m not really chasing power (that could change lol). I just don’t want to cross too far into mod territory and be fixing stuff all the time. I’ve actually considered going back to stock with a simple tune (and keeping the catback), but that might not 100% satisfy for long...
 

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Yeah I really don’t want to go that far (header), I’m not really chasing power (that could change lol). I just don’t want to cross too far into mod territory and be fixing stuff all the time. I’ve actually considered going back to stock with a simple tune (and keeping the catback), but that might not 100% satisfy for long...
Talk to the shop dealing with the engine and tuning. Honestly if Cobb makes an ots tune it's safe enough for daily in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
We'll be installing the engine and additional mods, so the only possible shop would be whoever does the tune (not a ton of options in MI). In looking at it Cobb makes an OTS "stage 2+" which would hopefully be a good starting point. I'm sure it would leave some HP on the table and be more "one size fits all," but hopefully it would keep the car in a safe zone.
 

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IMO the stage 2+ is where I think I going to stop as a daily driver. My plan is install an AIr oil separator and a cylinder 4 cooling mod. Cyl 4 is known for ring land failure, it’s inexpensive And hopefully keep my car running. The subie rumbled comes from the unequal length headers but keeps hot gasses close to the engine. Will also add “water wetter” to my oem Coolant. One day a catted DP. Simple mods to keep a daily driver running longer. Keep us posted !!!
 

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IMO the stage 2+ is where I think I going to stop as a daily driver. My plan is install an AIr oil separator and a cylinder 4 cooling mod. Cyl 4 is known for ring land failure, it’s inexpensive And hopefully keep my car running. The subie rumbled comes from the unequal length headers but keeps hot gasses close to the engine. Will also add “water wetter” to my oem Coolant. One day a catted DP. Simple mods to keep a daily driver running longer. Keep us posted !!!
Wat?

Equal length headers are 100% superior I have no idea what you are talking about keeping hot gases close. They offer superior exhaust scavenging and can actually help lower egt and cylinder temperature. It will help greatly towards evening cylinder temps. There is zero reason to keep unequal length headers unless money is a limitation.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think Hatchman is saying the same thing, that the UNequal length cause excessive heat.
 

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Correct. I don’t have the coin for equal length headers, or any headers for that matter. If u like the subie sound and don’t change to equal length headers, get the cyl 4 mod.
 

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Any reason not to upgrade rods/pistons besides money concerns? I had a 2013 WRX as of a month ago before I totaled it and if your goal is a reliable DD, I would also recommend getting new clutch and flywheel. I had an Exedy Stage 1 that slipped after 19k miles, according to Exedy Performance division, resurfacing my old flywheel wasn't sufficient and I needed a new flywheel while upgrading to the Exedy Stage 1 clutch. I only chose this clutch because I dislike puck style clutches and i've had 2 different ones in my 670rwhp Mustang and could not stand them for drive-ability reasons. Unless you have the money to spend on a twin-disc.

Also, with the EBCS installation will need a tune, get a professional one, not canned. It'll cost you the usual $500 about, but is absolutely necessary.

Here are the mods I had on my 2013 WRX...


FMS TMIC
Perrin CAI
Perrin Turbo Inlet hose
Perrin Catted DP
Turbo XS C/B
Perrin Turbo Heat-shield
DEI Titanium exhaust wrap around the DP
DEI Reflect-a-Gold partially wrapped on the TMIC
Cobb AP V2
TurboSmart BPV
Grimmspeed EBCS
NGK Iridium Plugs (1-step colder)
Deatschwerks DW65c Fuel Pump

Tuned by Agile Auto. Made 308/339 @20.5lbs on 93.

As for the drivetrain it has...

Exedy Stage 1 Clutch Kit
Kartboy Short Throw Shifter
Torque Solution Rear Shifter Bushing
Kartboy Shifter Bushings
Group N Trans Mount
Perrin Pitch Stop Mount
Whiteline Gearbox Positive Shift Kit
Torque Solution Rear Diff. Inserts
Perrin Subframe Lockdown Bushings

Suspernsion.

Eibach Front+Rear Sway Bars
Whiteline Rear Swaybar Mount Support Brace
Kartboy Front+Rear Endlinks

Interior.

Full Front+Rear STi seats since I wanted the Leather/Alcantera over the cloth
Anarchy Motive Rough Red Knob in Matte Finish (I have a Cardinal Sin Red one FS in the classifieds)
Prosport EVO Oil Pressure Gauge
Shifter Console custom covered in Alcantera by JPM Coachworks
JPM Coachworks Shift Boot with Red Stitching
JPM Coachworks Alcantera with Red Stitching Arm Rest
Genuine Subaru Red Footwell Illumination Kit -Red
Radio is the European Model which is basically just a small LCD screen that lights up "Subaru" when you turn on the car and its easier to rear which song is playing. Still works with the factory BT and steering wheel mounts.
I have the A-Pillars and the Panel that covers the Radio in Alcantera which I did my myself and used 3M Super 77 Adhesive to make it stick, plus you need a bunch of clips and a heat gun to smooth any wrinkles out.

325665
 
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