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New to site. Cyl 2 knock sum at 8 constantly through log? plus AVCS and OCV issue?

1538 Views 10 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  shizzashax
Sorry for the read

So this is my second Subi (09 wrx 265hp model)when i picked it up oil was neglected by previous owner and i don't think official Subaru dealer changed it before sale as well. long story short took about 3 liters to get it to the full line. Then shortly after it pulled a p0011 code. I changed the oil my self so i know it was done right and replaced (5w-30 full syn) and the OCV solenoid on the right side. As my AVCS for the left side were logging good numbers and the right side was a constant 0. also pulled out all the filters from the banjo bolts and gave it one crack with IGN fuse out and oil was flowing well to the solenoids and turbo feed.

mods are
Cobb AP
Cold air intake
Down pipe catless
Catback catless
Uppipe
Dw 65c fuel pump
Step colder spark plugs
Forged motorsport bypass valve
FMIC
Grimmspeed EBC
And of course Protuned at a very reputability shop in ontario
dyno at 280whp and 315tq

Anyways just wondering if anyone can view my logs for the AVCS and let me know if it looks right. i separated a few events in this log and im just worried about the AVCS in cells 18-42 and 76-93. right side seems to kick in a little late.
Timing belt will get done this AUG cars at about 145k KM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=117sTVQtpw-7akcacHRb5eVLpI5hKYXhACkfhW7KF8x4

Also wondering if anyone can tell me about the knock on cyl 2 here solid 8 all the way down. i have been getting feedback knock but no fine knock, but i thought it was just noise as its usually low load and rpm like 2200rpm at 9% throttle i would see around the -1.4 to -2.8 sometimes around -5, twice at -11 and once at -30 KNOCK! but at WOT any gear after 3k rpm all the way through i dont see knock ever.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UgDKNQJ6wi8xSwLCMEnut0b-pjF4IGLHQOi7e-ur0ew
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Some knock at low rpm under load will happen. It's when it's at high rpm under heavy boost when it starts to become an issue. Road noise, rattling parts, loose heat shields can all trigger a knock sensor as they are basically a microphone.

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well as its still freshly bought im still working on some things. Im considering taking apart everything over the engine just to clean and tighten and everything. mani, TGV, and all that to make sure everything is clean and tight and to check that everything is in decent condition. then clean and detail engine bay =). hopefully its a loose bolt or something all shields are secured. my FMIC pipe does rattle quite a bit maybe its rattling against something it shouldn't be. already moved it away from the brake reserve tank as it was making my peddles vibrate bad.
You will still see it from time to time. But I'm no pro when it comes to data logging but that looks normal to me.

You can try swapping the coil to another cylinder and see if it moves to the new cylinder. You should probably check the plugs and gap while you are down there as well.

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well plugs are new put in the other week they should be fine. compression test was done too and all cyls were good.
How did you check the gap on the plugs. The iridium plugs are super easy to damage using one of the wedge gap tools. You want to use shims or a bar style gapper.

At lower rpm i honestly think it's normal. There is a lot of engine noise at that point and will make it super easy to trip that sensor. I've been fighting a knock for a while now that happens at low to moderate load however I'm getting upwards of 40 on the way home. Some of it I know is road noise related as when I hit the patches I watch it spike. Hopefully you get yours ironed out to your liking.

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well the plugs came pregapped from the factory i believe .032 unless it got bent alittle when they were going in. i dont know i just feel like seeing -11 or that -30 is a bit high for noise
At low rpm especially the sub 1500 rpm range there is tons of feedback in the sensors and more so when the engine is loaded like in a slow roll

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Well my rod in cyl 2 just snapped. Bye-bye engine
Rods don't snap unless there is hydro lock. How did you manage that?

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No idea I just got back in town after off roading for a few hours. Got off the Highway and heard knocking I knew engine was toast so I didn't bother towing it right away drove it another 10 km to my shop and 2 intersections away in the middle of a left turn my rod snapped and engine turned off and that was it. I'm looking for a swap now. Considering sti swap
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