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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed my new APS SR30 Turbo on Independence Day. All I can say is wow! It feels a whole lot better than the stock TD04, and it is a hammer all the way to red line. The install took me and my friend about 7 hours. I will post pictures of the new turbo and side by side shots of the SR30 and TD04.

For all those wondering about the turbo lag, it really starts hitting hard at around 4,000 RPM. However, it feels better than the stocker because when I shift at 3,000 RPM it is not in boost, which makes the car more driveable. Also, this turbo is kicking in at a little over 3,000 RPM, but when it hits the 4,000 RPM point you can really feel the juice.

All I need to do now is get a Turbo XS unichip, STI injectors, and install my Supra fuel pump. I can just imagine the power after some tunning and fuel management.

Also, if anyone has this turbo and the Turbo XS unichip please let me know so I can get the chip and make this car run like it should.
 

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price on those turbos? or a website maybe? I have heard a lot of them but I never got to see one on sale!
7 hrs? is it just this turbo or you are taking your time?
SL
 

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slin02 said:
price on those turbos? or a website maybe? I have heard a lot of them but I never got to see one on sale!
7 hrs? is it just this turbo or you are taking your time?
SL
I think he's taking his time. I've done it about 5-6 times and it only takes me about 45 min.

Good luck with the turbo. I was looking more at the SR40. The SR30 is like a small VF. Either way, a good street turbo. :cool:
 

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The SR30 is about $1500. According to the people I've talked to at APS it flows about the same as a VF30, but spools faster. So it's not much like a small VF. I'm currently looking at getting either the SR29/30 or a VF34. I had called
Cobb to order one but there is about a 4 month wait at this point.

You'll have to get a unichip from TXS or one of their retailers. I'm sure they haven't had anyone with an SR30 in their shop so I'm not sure what they'll tell you as far as a map for it. How close are you to Maryland? :)
 

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If it spools faster than a VF30 then full boost should be seen considerably sooner than 4000rpms. During TurboXS' testing of a number of turbos back-to-back, they found that the VF30 reached a 15psi full-boost at 3390rpms.

Do a 4th gear pull from about 2500rpms and note at what rpms you hit full boost, and state what your target psi is. When you do a long pull like this, your 'full boost' rpms should be significantly lower.

-Pace
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I paid $1420.00 for the turbo with shipping. The install took me a while because it was my first time pulling the stocker out and I had to try and figure out what the heck I was doing. If I did it all over again I am pretty sure it would only take me about an hour and a half because of trial and error.

Also, I was considering the SR40, but I did not want to have a lot of turbo lag while driving around in the city. I am pretty sure this turbo will get me in the mid 12's, which is my goal for my WRX.

Unfortunately, Maryland is way too far for me because I live in California. I will have to wait until someone gets one these bad boys and takes it to Turbo XS. I just hope it is in the next few weeks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pace, I appreciate the information on how to test at what RPM I will hit full boost at. However, I still do not have any gauges installed on my WRX. I have just been using my butt dyno and eyes to tell me when full boost hits on my car. I will soon be ordering a full set of gauges, and when I install them I will try the fourth gear pull test and then post the results on this site.
 

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Gnulooks,

Grats on the new turbo! Must be like a new car! Imagine when you get the thing tuned? Whooop! :)

Where did you purchase the turbo from? I've been "investigating" turbo upgrades and haven't found any real alternatives to the IHI And PE turbos out there.
 

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If you do not have access to a unichip tuner such as Turbo XS or Vishnu. I would get something that you can tune yourself like an SAFC (providing you do not want to fork over the $ for a stand alone). I know the SAFC is not that popular on this board, but there are plenty of people on i-club that were able to extract good results.
Congrats on the new turbo, my friend and I just installed my VF30 this past weekend as well. It took about 3-4 hours, but if it was done again, it would have been about 1 hour. Damn oil feed line would not line up....
 

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gnulooks said:
Pace, I appreciate the information on how to test at what RPM I will hit full boost at. However, I still do not have any gauges installed on my WRX. I have just been using my butt dyno and eyes to tell me when full boost hits on my car. I
I'm sorry but that sounds utterly FOOLISH. You have a $1500 turbo but don't have a $30 gauge? :confused:

My boost gauge was my first mod. It's totally useful even on a stock car. If I were you (esp at this stage of the game), I'd go out and buy a boost, EGT (perhaps A/F as well), and a good data logger (DD for example) ASAP. Seriously. We just don't want to see anything happen. :eek:

good luck.
 

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Yeah, boost and EGT gauges are really necessary to protect your $1500 investment. I'm not sure I'd use the fuel-cut as my only indication of boosting too high. :eek:

Until you get a boost gauge and appropriate engine management; I strongly suggest you bring your boost down to the minimum possible: Remove the 'T' from the boost control line that taps the wastegate signal for the OEM solenoid, and replace it with a 'straight-through' section. This will bypass the OE solenoid bleed-off and give you a direct connection from the turbo outlet to the wastegate. The result will be around 9psi max boost. Playing guestimate with your nice new turbo is folly.

-Pace
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
is2scooby, I bought the turbo directly from Cobb tunning you can find the URL on the above postings.

QuivsMY02. I have the the SR30 with the 17.5 turbine housing (325 HP).

Type C, sounds foolish, however, I have only had this car for two months and I do not want a cheap $30 gauge. I am in the process of buying the Defi pod with the Defi gauges. I have been trying to get my gauges from ISR performance, but they are not doing the best job of the world of calling me back and telling me if they can get the gauges for me. I installed the turbo because I got it sooner than I thought I would. I wanted to install the gauges first, but I got impatient and threw on the turbo. Also, I have read a few forums on which certain guys like God have run the turbo with the car in stock form. I do appreciate you looking out for me, so keep the good advice comming.

Pace, thanks for the advice with the T-line. I will do that right away in order to protect my engine. I really appreciate your knowlege because I had no idea I could reduce the boost without an aftermarket boost controller.
 

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Just out of interest, how come you guys dont buy stand alone ecu's??
Here in Aus, on any serious modified 'rex' one of the first mods is a full function stand alone ecu such as Motec.

Unichips and SAFC's arent very popular.

The results are fantastic even with stock turbo. (MOTEC)
Unichip also do not have a very good reputation over here, especially with holding tune.

For the record I drive a MY02, Red, Mods: HKS boost gauge, 3inch Exhaust, Cusco Strut braces and whiteline sway bars on real soon.

Next mod for me is without doubt going to be Motec M4 Clubman ECU.
 

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There are many people that run the Possum Link, and fewer that run the Tec-II I believe. I guess I always ask 'what is the reason that I should buy a standalone in preference to a piggyback?' I know what the theoretical advantages are, but in the US at least the Link has not yet been proven any more effective than the Unichip.

There is also the argument regarding long waiting times for remapping of the Unichip versus tuning the Link yourself. Frankly this does not hold up: I sent my Unichip out to TurboXS on a Monday morning (via next day) and it was back on my doorstep at Wednesday lunchtime. Not bad considering it had to travel 2000 miles across country, and back...

In Colorado there are a bunch of guys running Links, and my observation is that only one has done a really sound job of tuning it (Phast). The others are either complaining of running rough or their vehicles appear not to be performing the way they should. I don't think that most people understand the fundamentals of engine tuning that are needed to be successful with a tune-it-yourself standalone.

Not saying that I eventually won't run a standalone, but right now the Unichip is more than adequate for my needs. I think this is the case with most people that run them.

Unichips generally have an excellent reputation in the US. The people that bad-mouth them are usually those that have never utilized them, but rather just dislike the piggyback concept.

-Pace
 

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I think the Unichip is great, I had TRG tune it for me, works fine, I have to work some kinks out though....I dont think they have to do with the unichip though.
 

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I think the Unichip is a great alternative for those that don't feel comfortable with tuning a standalone. The Link, while fairly simple, is still very capable of screwing things up in the wrong hands.

I chose the standalone route, because I felt comfortable with my knowledge of EFI systems. If I have questions, there are plenty of people willing to help me out. I didn't feel very comfortable with a Unichip after talking to several vendors about the state of tune that I wanted to achieve with my car. One of the most reputable tuners of Unichips actually told me that it would be a bad idea with my mods. Sending in a chip to be remapped with every mod change was enough justification for me to order a Link instead. I also like the fact that I can base my tune around certain conditions and revert to a whole library of maps that I have stored on the laptop.

Sorry to go OT.
 
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