ClubWRX Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Loads of fun! I figured I'd post a few pics of the ride. I've had it since the end of summer, been on the forum for a while too.

The wheels are motegi's, tires are general altimax arctics.

Also just put in a GPS/DVD head unit. Just a jensen VM9424. Say what you will about Jensen, but it looks and sounds good!

Also tossed in a remote starter a couple months back too, working great. It was a Clifford 4112x one way system, essentially the same as a viper 5101 with a slightly different looking remote. If anyone has questions on the remote start install process, fire away!

Just thought I'd share!

Needed a bath



5 Posts
Sweet ride man. I have a '12 WRX Hatch. Could you tell me a little more about your remote starter. I'm thinking about putting one in but I've heard that it can mess with your A/C. Have you noticed anything like that? How was the install and the everything?

4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Sweet ride man. I have a '12 WRX Hatch. Could you tell me a little more about your remote starter. I'm thinking about putting one in but I've heard that it can mess with your A/C. Have you noticed anything like that? How was the install and the everything?
Thanks man! I haven't had any problems with mine. As far as the climate controls, the only thing I can think of that would cause a problem is not connecting the second accessory wire. On most cars, the first accessory wire is what powers the climate controls, however, on mine it was the second accessory wire. As long as they are both hooked up, climate controls, heated seats, etc work great. I actually wrote up the instructions for a different forum, here they are. This was for a 2011, but I suspect the 2012 is the same.

Remote starter details – Here you go fellas, took a while to type lol.

This should be the same for 2008, 2009, 2010, and 2011 both hatch and sedan. Without question a 2011 sedan as that is what I have. If you have never installed a remote starter before, expect this to be an all day project.

Remote start that this is for – Either viper 5101 one way system, viper 5301 2 way system, python 1401 one way system, or python 580 two way system. Several other DEI manufactured systems should be the same or similar as well, those are pretty popular choices though. Also, some of the above units use several small harness (2x 5 pin and a 7 pin) and some use a bigger 18 pin harness. The colors listed below will be the same.
For all of the connections listed below, the wire color on the left is for the remote start side, on the right, the car side.

Main 8 Pin Heavy Gauge Harness
Pink – Ignition one – to green wire on ignition switch
Red/White – 12+ constant – to white at ignition switch
Orange – Accessory 1 – to blue at ignition switch
Violet – Starter 1 – to white/black at ignition switch
Red – 12+ constant – to white at ignition switch
Pink/White – Starter 2 – to white/red at ignition switch – THIS IS PROGRAMMABLE ON THE DEI UNTIS, YOU WILL NEED TO CHANGE ITS OUTPUT TO SECOND STARTER, not hard, just read the manual
Pink/Black – Not needed
Red/Black - 12v constant – to white at ignition switch
In addition to these, there is a second accessory wire on this vehicle, and it powers the climate controls, so you’ll need to rig a relay to kick that in. Wire a standard 5 pin relay as follows.
Pin 85 on relay – Connect to chassis ground
Pin 86 on relay – Connect to heavy gauge starter 1 wire (violet) on remote start unit
Pin 87 on relay – Connect to 12v constant (Green at ignition)
Pin 30 on relay – Connect to yellow at ignition switch
Pin 87A – Not needed, tape this up so it cannot touch any other wires/bare metal

12 Pin Medium Sized Harness
Red/White – This is the trunk release wire, I was only able to find the wire on hatch models, is would be connected to green/red in the passenger kick panel or the BIU which is under the driver dash to the right of the colum. YOU PROBABLY NEED TO USE A RELAY FOR THIS AS WELL.
Red – To 12+ constant
Brown – Horn output – Brown to red at horn switch or BIU
White Brown – Not needed
Black – To chassis ground
Violet – Not needed
Blue – Not needed
Green – Door trigger – Blue/Orange at driver kick panel or BIU
Black/White – Dome light output – Green/Yellow at BIU – I chose not to connect this, if you want the dome light to work during remote start, this will need to be connected, likely requires a relay.
White/Blue – Not needed
White – Parking light output – Turns parking lights on a few seconds after remote start to confirm running – Connect to black/white at light switch (Also, for this, there is a fuse inside the brain box, you will need to put it in the negative position, not positive.
Orange – Ground when armed output (We’ll need this later to bypass the clutch, see below)

Smaller Harness (Again may be 3 small 5-7 pin harnesses, or one 18 pin harness on the remote start brain box) colors will be the same, just different harnesses
Light green/Black – Not needed
Light green/white – Not needed
White/Violet – Not Needed
Violet/Black – Not needed
White/Black – Not Needed
Light Blue – Not Needed
Gray/Black – Not needed
Black/white – Neutral safety switch – This must show ground when remote starting, wither connect to chassis ground, or to the parking brake wire which is gray at the BIU
Violet/White – Tach wire, I used virtual tach which is the default setting for these units, its worked great all winter so far. If you’d like to run an actual tach signal, connect this wire to any injector wire that IS NOT common between them, IE all 4 injectors will have one common color, the rest will vary, connect it to a non common.
Brown – Brake shutdown – CONNECT THIS! If a theif tries to steal the car while its remote started, once he hits the brake, the car will shut down – Connect to light green at biu, this wire will go positive when the brake is pressed.
Gray – Hood pin – many people don’t install these, but you should. It hooks up to the hood pin switch that comes with the kit. You attach it in the engine compartment so when the hood is open, the remote start is disabled, that way it cant accidentally start while youre working on the car.
Blue/White – Rear defrost output – I didn’t use this, can’t find the wire, you may be able to find which one it is with some research.
Pink/White – Not needed
Orange – Not needed
Violet – Not Needed
Pink – Not Needed
Blue – To key in the box bypass (DEI 556U) Connect to blue wire

Door lock harness - A few notes… With the key in the box bypass, the alarm will only disarm using the FACTORY remote. IE, if you armed the car, you hit the unlock on the viper remote, open the door, the alarm is going to go off. Also, the same is reversed. If you park at your destination, and hit the lock button on the viper remote, the doors will lock, but the alarm WILL NOT ARM, it will only lock the doors. So you may not even want to bother with the locks, but if you do, here is where they go.
Blue – Unlock – connect to blue/black at BIU
Green – Lock – connect to light green at BIU

4 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Clutch Bypass – As you know, to start the car, the clutch must be depressed. To get around this during remote start only, you will need one more relay. Wire it as follows.
As noted above, you will need the orange wire from the 12 pin harness from the remote start box.
Pin 85 on relay – 12v constant
Pin 86 on relay – to orange on 12 pin harness from remote start box
Pin 87 on relay – to chassis ground
Pin 30 on relay – to clutch wire – Above the clutch pedal and I believe slightly to the left (when looking to the front of the car, there is a 2 pin harness. You will have to test this wire with a multimeter as I don’t recall which one you need off hand. Connect the positive end of the multimeter to a 2v constant source. Connect the negative end from the multimeter to one of the 2 wires on the pin harness listed above. If you get voltage on the meter, it’s the wrong wire. If you don’t get voltage, press the clutch pedal all the way down. If you get voltage, this is the wire to connect to pin 30. In a nutshell, connect pin 30 of the relay to the wire that shows ground only when the clutch pedal is pressed down all the way.
Quick note – Some of you may have simply jumped this wire on other cars (put a small piece of wire from the first wire to the second wire) hence the car will think the clutch is depressed all the time. On the STi this will disable both the cruise control and hill start assist. Don’t jump this harness!

Bypass wiring – For this scenario, I am assuming you are going to use a key in the box (Sacrifice Key). I used the DEI 556U bypass, they are only about $15 on amazon or ebay.
Red – To 12+ constant
Blue to blue on the smaller harness listed above
Pink – To ignition 1 wire – green at ignition
Black – Chassis ground
Violet – Not needed
Green – Not needed
3 pin RF loop wiring – Plugs into bypass unit and loop goes around the ignition tumbler

Programming – The viper and python systems listed above come in manual transmission mode out of the box. You have to do a certain sequence in order to remote start. I don’t recall the specific procedure off hand. Its something like with the car running via the key, hold the remote start button on the FOB for 1-2 seconds, put the parking brake on, open the driver door (car is still running without the key in the ignition at this point) close the door, the car will shut off. If at any time you open the door again before remote starting, you need to do this process over again. I didn’t care for this. To get around it, change the programming to automatic transmission mode. There are no steps to complete, it will remote start every time you hit the button. You must be VERY careful though, as there is no safety check that the car is in neutral. If left in gear, the car will jolt forward and potentially roll down a hill, hit something, etc. What I do to avoid this, is press the remote start button before getting out, then take the key out. Then use the remote to stop the engine. This way it would be impossible for the car to have been left in gear as the car was still running when you got out! Perfect!

Other notes – At the time of my install, DEI did not make an express kit so that the factory alarm could be armed with the viper remote. I believe iDataLink does make one that will work on our cars. It will control most functions including lock, unlock, trunk pop, factory alarm/disarm, etc. I am not familiar at all with the iDatalink bypass units so I won’t be of any help if you get stuck.

Concerned with having a key locked in the car? You can do many things to remove all concern for having the key in the car. I used the valet key to sacrifice. You can take the key to a grinding wheel and make the key inoperable by shaving down the grooves. You only need the plastic part of the key (where the chip is) for the bypass. Also, you can hide the box with the key, which is secured by 4 screws. Hopefully you would have noticed by the time the thief was able to actually remove the key.
If this is your first remote start install, you’ll probably run into the following.. At first remote start attempt, the dash will come on but the car won’t start. If this happens, eventually the remote start box will provide you with trouble codes. Your parking lights will flash, the horn may honk, or if you didn’t hook those up, you can hear the relay clicking inside the remote start box. If you get 7 clicks/honks/flashes, this means you are still in manual transmission mode, or the sequence was not performed. If you get 8 clicks/honks/flashes, you either need to plug in the the 2 pin harness with the switch on it, or move that switch to the on position. Those are the most common faults for first timers.

If any of you happen to be in the St Paul, MN area, I’d be happy to meet up and give a hand, we have a huge heated shop with a lift and all to work in! Or leave a reply here and I’ll do my best to help.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts