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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all. I鈥檓 a subi newbie and I鈥檓 desperate for help馃槄 I have a 2016 manual WRX and I just had the clutch replaced with a whole kit, it鈥檚 a stage 1 ACT clutch and pressure plate and I believe an oem flywheel, all new bearings and . My problem is I鈥檓 over the 500 mile mark and it seems to be slipping, and getting a little rougher during shifting, not quite gear grinding but rough and clunky from time to time. It also has a weird grinding howl only when decelerating in gear. My girl decided to give it the beans just hours after it was replaced and I鈥檓 wondering if it鈥檚 glazed?? And if so if that鈥檚 repairable? I can鈥檛 find a straight answer anywhere so please help! I already checked the free play and engagement distance on the pedal and it looks right.
 

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I would at least start with bleeding and adjusting As thats fairly easy. A poorly adjust clutch results in the same thing as riding the clutch and can burn out a new clutch in short amount of time and cause shifting difficulties as it鈥檚 not completely disengaging when you step on the pedal. I dont know of another simple explanation for you clutch to slip after only 500 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would at least start with bleeding and adjusting As thats fairly easy. A poorly adjust clutch results in the same thing as riding the clutch and can burn out a new clutch in short amount of time and cause shifting difficulties as it鈥檚 not completely disengaging when you step on the pedal. I dont know of another simple explanation for you clutch to slip after only 500 miles.
I would at least start with bleeding and adjusting As thats fairly easy. A poorly adjust clutch results in the same thing as riding the clutch and can burn out a new clutch in short amount of time and cause shifting difficulties as it鈥檚 not completely disengaging when you step on the pedal. I dont know of another simple explanation for you clutch to slip after only 500 miles.
 

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Neither. They said they didn鈥檛 open up the housing so they didn鈥檛 need to, and I don鈥檛 think either of them knew to adjust the travel. I checked it and I have 1/4鈥-3/8鈥 free play still
Their comment about not opening bell housing doesn't make sense. You have to take the transmission out to replace the clutch. Given labor is the main cost, I hope they did rear main seal, clutch pivot and throwout bearing at the same time.

I agree with Leaguestr. Start with bleeding and adjustment. Glazing is a possibility but depends on your definition of beans. Launching or hard shifts can kill a new clutch in minutes. Hard acceleration after fully releasing the pedal is fine.

Organic clutches require a 300-500 mile break-in period where you minimize slip and try to start the car on clutch without using gas pedal as far as possible. No launches, no quick shifts and rev match for each shift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Their comment about not opening bell housing doesn't make sense. You have to take the transmission out to replace the clutch. Given labor is the main cost, I hope they did rear main seal, clutch pivot and throwout bearing at the same time.

I agree with Leaguestr. Start with bleeding and adjustment. Glazing is a possibility but depends on your definition of beans. Launching or hard shifts can kill a new clutch in minutes. Hard acceleration after fully releasing the pedal is fine.

Organic clutches require a 300-500 mile break-in period where you minimize slip and try to start the car on clutch without using gas pedal as far as possible. No launches, no quick shifts and rev match for each shift.
I do rev match for shifting but I was a little worried that it was bad instead of good, the giving it the 鈥渂eans鈥 was more quick acceleration but I don鈥檛 think it was really rough shifting. And the guy who did my clutch said 鈥渨e didn鈥檛 open up the system for the clutch, you can just unbolt and move it out of the way 鈥. The whole assembly was replaced, clutch disc, flywheel, bearings, pressure plate, fork. It has been shifted a little hard cus it was way softer than I was used to, but we didn鈥檛 do any launches more just acceleration after I realized it felt funny, just to see if it was in my head or not. It doesn鈥檛 want to shift smoothly into 2nd or 3rd typically now.
 

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Either he is blowing smoke up your ass or smoking something good. There is no way to remove the clutch without separating engine and gearbox on most cars, subarus included.

Unbolting the trans and moving it back is an option on some rwd cars. There's no way to do it here without doing something janky and damaging the transmission. At minimum you have to remove the driveshaft, front halfshafts, both shifter cables and cross-member. At that point you may as well drop the trans because nothing's left.

Check the gearbox oil level and condition. Hopefully bleeding and/or replacing slave cylinder will solve your issue but if not, you may have to take it in to a better shop that can diagnose the issue.
 

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Almost positive it鈥檚 a glazed clutch now, probably going to use it up and put a stage 2 in later after resurfacing the flywheel. Thanks everyone for the help!
Why? What do you think a "stage 2" clutch will solve?

Also what's your expectations of a stage 2 clutch? There are clutches that don't have a stage that have more torque handling than other stage whatever clutch.

Buy the clutch that has the torque handling you need. No matter what stage it is poor installation and bad driving will kill it.
 
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