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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
wow its been forever since ive posted on here.

lets get the basics out of the way first. 2002 wrx, catless uppipe, catless 3 inch turbo back, 16g, previously tuned for stage 2.

now for the details. a guy i work with recently did a hybrid swap to his 2002 wagon and got a brand new 16g for the build. well lets just say money got tight after the build, so he sold it with the stock td04. lucky me i got a brand new 16g for nearly half price. last saturday i swapped out my td04 for the 16g. now the only thing i have not done, whick i know i need so stop the flaming now, is hooked up the boost gauge ive had for a year and most likely a MBC. whats happening is during normal driving everything is fine, but hard highway pulls the waste gate sticks wide open. and by open i mean 180 degrees wide open.

the only thing i can think off the top of my head, is im building too much boost for the wastegate, and its getting pushed open so hard its swinging to far. now yes, a MBC will correct that by dialing down the pressure so the wastegate can do its job properly. i just wanted to get some input so i know weather or not im heading in the right direction. thanks in advance!
 

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Drifting02WRX said:
2002 wrx, catless uppipe, catless 3 inch turbo back, 16g, previously tuned for stage 2.
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now the only thing i have not done, whick i know i need so stop the flaming now, is hooked up the boost gauge ive had for a year and most likely a MBC.
Are you tuned for the 16G at all?
 

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whats happening is during normal driving everything is fine, but hard highway pulls the waste gate sticks wide open. and by open i mean 180 degrees wide open.
How the hell do you know this? Do you have an underhood camera or a little tiny person sitting on your passenger side strut tower with a pair of nightvision binoculars voicing the WG position to you via a 900MHz radio while you drive?!?

Maybe you're logging. I don't know, but you didn't say that.

And yes, 90 degrees is more appropriate. And if it's really stuck open, let's say AFTER, you turn off the car and pop the hood, then the WGA is FUBAR.

But all in all, your engine does not like you right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How the hell do you know this? Do you have an underhood camera or a little tiny person sitting on your passenger side strut tower with a pair of nightvision binoculars voicing the WG position to you via a 900MHz radio while you drive?!?

Maybe you're logging. I don't know, but you didn't say that.

And yes, 90 degrees is more appropriate. And if it's really stuck open, let's say AFTER, you turn off the car and pop the hood, then the WGA is FUBAR.

But all in all, your engine does not like you right now.
you are 100% correct. if i wanted a smarta** answer i would of posted on nastyc*ck. i know this because i know how to open my hood and physically look at the wastegate arm. and no its not stuck at 90 its all the way open at 180. i have to grab it with a pair of pliers and manually close it again.

i have not data logged yet, and the tume i have is a basic tune that was modified for my car rather than the original owner who had the hybrid swap. ive only driven it twice now since last saturday when i did the swap.
 

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you are 100% correct. if i wanted a smarta** answer i would of posted on nastyc*ck. i know this because i know how to open my hood and physically look at the wastegate arm. and no its not stuck at 90 its all the way open at 180. i have to grab it with a pair of pliers and manually close it again.
I thought my little tiny person with a 900MHz radio and binoculars was funny, no?

OK, so your WGA is cranking way the heck open, basically past 90 degrees, which I think is quite possibly...impossible. Unless the connecting shaft between the outside "tab" and the WG "flapper" is broken or bent, the WG shouldn't open more than 130-140 degrees, and quite possibly maybe not even 90 degrees with the WGA arm attached. At 90 degrees, the rotating tab would be at "top dead center" and would then cause the WGA arm to stick.

Fully closed, the tab should be parallel with the edge of the exhaust flange. The tab aligns with the WG flapper. The WG flapper will hit the inside of the exhaust flange around 130-140 degrees from its original position. If the tab goes to 180 degrees, then it has exceeded the max travel and something is broken.

That's my straight answer. I am also a member on NASIOC.
 

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Yeah, if it is stuck and you need pliers, then it is stuck.


Is this like an ebay turbo?

Is the wastegate arm adjusted properly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok so maybe its not exactly 180, buts it is past 90, to the point its as far from closed as possible. the only reason i have to grab it with the pliers and close it, is becasue its past 90 and wont close under the spring tension. so its not actually "stuck", more-so unable to close again.

as far as ebay turbo, no. its from godspeed direct link here -> http://www.godspeedproject.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=320

now as far as the wastegate being proplerly adjusted, im not sure. i havent been able to play with it much over the last week, between 2 jobs i usually dont get home till after 11pm. i have this weekend off so im hoping to get everything situated then. i have a mbc and a boost gauge on my install pile for saturday. i was also thinking that the arm is turned out to far, allowing it to open further than need be. but again, not sure. i am sure tho that it is not bent or broken. everytinhg does move freely and the flap does sit flush when closed.

the one thing i was unsure of, is how it is able to move so much, i thaught it would have some sort of a stopping point, say before 90 so this cant happen? maybe ill look at the 4 other random paper-weight turbos i have at work and see if they can go past half way, or if they have a stopping point.

just think, i was completely happy with just another ordinary stage 2 WRX, then the oil seals went, and now im in this mess...
 

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Ok, so just get a stock turbo used ASAP and put it back on there. Seriously.

As far as I can tell, to stick with the 16g you need a turbo that is working correctly, injectors, FP, better TMIC and most importantly a tune. Not one of those things is optional or sort of important - you HAVE to have them. An MBC will not cut it. I don't want to shout, so I will repeat myself. Will not cut it.

Or you can get a stock turbo and possibly a new wastegate actuator for cheap.
 

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It sounds like your wastegate is hanging up on whatever downpipe you have on there.

Oh, and I know you've been warned, but it is possible to melt nifty little holes in your pistons within a couple short rides with the setup you're running. The pistons are in danger at about 1650 degrees. A catless WRX will easily run between 1450 and 1550 degrees regularly. With your setup (or lack of a setup) you will easily exceed 1700.
 

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so im doomed for failure....
Without the correct supporting mods for that turbo, yes. If you want your engine to live, you will need larger injectors and a conservative tune at the least. A more ideal setup for that turbo would be larger injectors, larger intercooler, larger fuel pump, and a tune. She would then lay down much more power with darn near stock reliability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
maybe ill just take the easy way out and sell the ol wrx. and get me a 2011 sti. i was planning on waiting till spring, but i dont need anymore headaches right now.
 

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Godspeed = junk

They basicly are Ebay turbos as thats where they pedal their wares. Sounds like the wastegate actuator is defective. Also my first post said you needed injectors and a tune. You really should research more before moddifing a vehicle. All this info is in the stickies/FAQ's on just about every Subaru site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i guess it was the gleem of a brand new turbo for half price that caught my eye. yes i should of researched, but with blown oil seals, i needed something quick, and the answer that came forth, wasnt the right one. so yet again, im bascally right where i started.
 

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You really should research more before moddifing a vehicle.
Awesome. Let this be a ClubWRX first, a new word coined by Donkey and seconded/edited/made-official by 2:43AM.

Moddif'ing: [mod-uh-eff-ing];
verb, as in modif***ing.

1. to change somewhat the form or qualities of; alter partially; or to amend in a way that is detriment to the overall health and/or quality/durability of a vehicle.
 

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Awesome. Let this be a ClubWRX first, a new word coined by Donkey and seconded/edited/made-official by 2:43AM.

Moddif'ing: [mod-uh-eff-ing];
verb, as in modif***ing.

1. to change somewhat the form or qualities of; alter partially; or to amend in a way that is detriment to the overall health and/or quality/durability of a vehicle.
:rotfl: Webster's has been contacted! Damn spell check no worky!!
 
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