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Discussion Starter #1
Well, my coilovers had been clunking since I first put them on the car. It's been through 2 alignments since then, the first installed the camber wedges because the negative camber was so bad that the tires were rubbing the springs. 2nd time around (different shop), they kept using the camber wedges from the first alignment. This was probably about 3 months ago or so.

Sooo, the other night I'm taking a couple friends home. I hear the usual clunking, but i hear a new clunk...sort of a rapid clunk-clunk-clunk-clunk, then it goes away. Only heard this twice. I go maybe 15 miles tops on the freeway and I start to smell rubber. I'm right at the exit, so I drive it over to my friend's house.

He hops out of the car and says my camber is way in at the rear right. I'm thinking wtf. I get out and look, sure enough the wheel is cocked way in at the top. We grab a flashlight from his house and take a look, right away I notice HMMM NO CAMBER WEDGE. Goddamn thing must have worked itself out somehow. The inside sidewall of my tire is massacred at this point, I'm surprised it held air. The fender well and everything in it was covered in shredded rubber shavings.

So I leave the car there, go home and get all my tools and stock struts/wheels/tires, come back the next day and switch everything out.

So now I'm running stock struts, I need a new tire so I can put my wheels back on, and I have a set of coilovers that I don't even want to put back on my car at this point. I'm thinking the clunk *may* have been coming from the camber wedges the whole time. I will NEVER put camber wedges on my car ever again after this incident. I may try camber bolts and see if I can get enough degrees out of them. If not, I'm gonna get rid of these coilovers and go with just a shock/spring combo. I just don't need the headaches.

BAH. Well thanks for listening, I need to figure out what I'm going to do next. I can't tolerate these stock parts either after being spoiled with coilovers ;)
 

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My old DMS coilovers used camber washers (elipitical shaped washers)- came w/ three sets- varying amount of camber w/ each set. What do the wedges look like? Do they just sit in the strut bolt holes?

I've gone the STi strut/spring route and have never looked back at coilovers.

Big Sky
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well the problem was they couldn't get enough adjustment out of the elliptical washers that DMS supplied w/ the coilovers. They had to use an undersized bolt (ugh) through the top hole, with the wedge between the strut body and the piece it mounts to at the bottom. Hopefully that makes sense. The whole concept of it seems like a bad engineering idea to me.
 

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Why not use adjustable top hats?
 

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DMS makes three different washers, maybe more (each a different color), don't know which they supplied, but it's possible there is another washer that will work better.

Adj tops as Chris suggested are a good option as well- lot's of adjustment and a couple of outfits offer caster and camber plates in one unit.

Big Sky
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have the first generation DMS coilovers, so they may have made some adjustments on the newer versions. I do in fact have all 3 sets of washers. Like I said though, the alignment shop could not get the camber right without going to the camber wedges. I do have the camber plates in the front, and they still put wedges on them (I think they would be reasonably fine even without). Rear camber plates might be a good idea, but would they be enough? Remember, the camber was so negative that my tire was rubbing against the coils. I'm not sure if even the camber plates will give me enough adjustment.
 

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Nothing against your shop, but something appears to be awry. The washers have to be turned the right way (as well as choosing the right washer IIRC the black was the right choice-offered the most adj), turned the wrong way they'll offer worse camber. With front plates and the correct washer- you would never, ever need wedges (and smaller bolts) in the front.

You can run plates in the rear as well, but my guess is they fobbed the washer deal.

I've got some old posts about DMS washers here and at Nasioc, they may be old enough you may have to serach in archives:rolleyes:

Big Sky
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah you may be right. The first place I went to was not very good. The second time around I went to a place that came very well recommended on nasioc. I think they just used the wedges because they were already there, though I did bring along the washers. I'll try one of the rears this weekend and see if I can get it to come out ok with the washers. Thanks for all the input.
 

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If you have all three washers- look for the one that has the greatest oblong section in it- those are the ones you want to use. Then once you figure out wich set of washers (almost positive it was black), then put them on your struts so the oblong hole is facing the outside of the car- this would allow max positive camber (which you'll need).

If this is confusing, post some pics up (of the washers) and I can talk you thru it.

Good luck!

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I ended up doing a bunch of research online, and I'm going to get away from the DMS coilovers altogether. Even if I can get the camber right with the washers, there's just too many headaches with the DMS setup. I'm gonna go with the spec C takeoffs, just need to finalize the deal. Thanks Mike for all the help though, your input really helped with my decision.
 

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GV27 said:
Why not use adjustable top hats?
If the tire is rubbing on the spring then adjustable top hats wont do anything to solve the problem. Adjustable top hats can improve fender clearance but you can only change strut/spring clearance with camber bolts/washers/wedges/etc...
 

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Sorry. I was thinking more along the lines of proper adjustment rather than shoe-horning a too-big tire in there. His tire was only rubbing because the wedges had come out, leaving him with WAY too much neg. camber.
 
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