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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings!

I have two similar cars and I have to get rid of one of them due to graduate school. I'm from Philadelphia and will be driving to Iowa and can only take a car with me. So I appreciate if someone can give me some input as to which car to bring/sell, considering I will have limited access to tools hence will only be able to do basic maintenance.

1. 03 WRX, 191k miles, 5 Speed
Oirignal Motor, Clutch job at 140k
Timing belt, alternator, water pump, spark plugs and drive belts replaced at 140k miles
Wheel Bearings/hub, tie rod, ball joints replaced at 150k.
Coilovers installed at 150k.
Tires and brakes are about half life. Stock rims.
Cobb Stage 2+, Catted Invidia Downpipe with Borla Hush.

2. 02 WRX, 217k miles (!!!!), 4EAT (don't judge)
Original Motor and Transmission
Timing belt, alternator, water pump, drive belts, radiator, spark plugs, both O2 sensors, MAF sensor replaced at 200k miles.
Coilovers installed at 200k miles.
Front suspension (both brackets, wheel bearing, hub, inner/outer tie rods, ball joints, except control arms) replaced at 200k miles.
Tires and brakes are about half life. Calipers replaced at 200k Aftermarket rims.
Was at Stage 2+ with Grimspeed/Borla Hush, now Stage 1+ with stock downpipe/catback only with Cobb EBCS.

I'm kind of in a dilemma, which car would be more reliable generally speaking? I do have enough funds stashed away for an engine rebuild in case car broke down but I do not know who to turn to in Iowa since I don't know anyone there.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Greetings!

I have two similar cars and I have to get rid of one of them due to graduate school. I'm from Philadelphia and will be driving to Iowa and can only take a car with me. So I appreciate if someone can give me some input as to which car to bring/sell, considering I will have limited access to tools hence will only be able to do basic maintenance.

1. 03 WRX, 191k miles, 5 Speed
Oirignal Motor, Clutch job at 140k
Timing belt, alternator, water pump, spark plugs and drive belts replaced at 140k miles
Wheel Bearings/hub, tie rod, ball joints replaced at 150k.
Coilovers installed at 150k.
Tires and brakes are about half life. Stock rims.
Cobb Stage 2+, Catted Invidia Downpipe with Borla Hush.

2. 02 WRX, 217k miles (!!!!), 4EAT (don't judge)
Original Motor and Transmission
Timing belt, alternator, water pump, drive belts, radiator, spark plugs, both O2 sensors, MAF sensor replaced at 200k miles.
Coilovers installed at 200k miles.
Front suspension (both brackets, wheel bearing, hub, inner/outer tie rods, ball joints, except control arms) replaced at 200k miles.
Tires and brakes are about half life. Calipers replaced at 200k Aftermarket rims.
Was at Stage 2+ with Grimspeed/Borla Hush, now Stage 1+ with stock downpipe/catback only with Cobb EBCS.

I'm kind of in a dilemma, which car would be more reliable generally speaking? I do have enough funds stashed away for an engine rebuild in case car broke down but I do not know who to turn to in Iowa since I don't know anyone there.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
I wouldn’t even consider either. More likely the first one if I didn’t have a choice. Fewer miles and less modifications. I would go ahead and schedule to get the coil overs removed regardless of what you buy. A functioning set of real coil overs cost more than both of those cars are worth combined. Chances are they are some tein, B.C. racing, chinesium garbage that’s worth more as boat anchors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I wouldn’t even consider either. More likely the first one if I didn’t have a choice. Fewer miles and less modifications. I would go ahead and schedule to get the coil overs removed regardless of what you buy. A functioning set of real coil overs cost more than both of those cars are worth combined. Chances are they are some tein, B.C. racing, chinesium garbage that’s worth more as boat anchors.
I wouldn't consider them either if I didn't already have them. And I would have bought another car if that is a financially logical option. The point is I already have them and did maintenance on them and buying another car is not a doable option.

I appreciate your time for trashing my rides like they're worthless piece of junks, thank you. It's like I'm trying to see which car is better option and you came along and tell me they're garbage and go buy a new car.
 

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You wanted an honest opinion. Sadly neither car is something i would want to count on as a daily driver. They are not known to be long lived and more years on the vehicle the worse the issues become.

As I said if I had no other choice the one with the lowest miles and fewest modifications is the only clear choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You wanted an honest opinion. Sadly neither car is something i would want to count on as a daily driver. They are not known to be long lived and more years on the vehicle the worse the issues become.

As I said if I had no other choice the one with the lowest miles and fewest modifications is the only clear choice.
Okay perhaps I got your message in a different way, my apologies.

The 4eat has a uoa that came back pretty good at 200k. I mean, if I am to get rid of both cars how much can I possibly get to get another reliable car (and I have to replace some thing on that vehicle too like brakes, timing, tires, belts, etc)
 

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Sorry, I’m dry at times and have a special hatred for inexpensive coil overs. I also wrote that original thing at what would be my super early not awake mindset.

My argument is this.

A modified vehicle is typically fairly reliable for the average life of a car. Problem is neither of your vehicles are within average life. 200k miles is pushing the limit on anything passenger vehicle related. Not only are you concerned about engine and transmission wear but frame wear. The coilovers being likely harder than a wedding prick only serve to transfer more movement to the body wearing it down.

You’ve also got to contend with what your uoa is saying. Every single day your engine wears. Because the uoa shows everything is ok doesn’t mean there isn’t an extreme or high amount of wear in the engine. It can tell you something is wearing too fast or you’ve got contaminated oil, or too harsh of a condition for the oil. Not exactly the health of the engine. Quite literally you could be good one day and dead turbo or beating the next

You know the cars, you maintain the cars. Take the one that is in better shape. I would be wary of a high mileage modified anything. My 2011 was at 100k when I sold it and although everything was good it was a ticking time bomb from abuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry, I’m dry at times and have a special hatred for inexpensive coil overs. I also wrote that original thing at what would be my super early not awake mindset.

My argument is this.

A modified vehicle is typically fairly reliable for the average life of a car. Problem is neither of your vehicles are within average life. 200k miles is pushing the limit on anything passenger vehicle related. Not only are you concerned about engine and transmission wear but frame wear. The coilovers being likely harder than a wedding prick only serve to transfer more movement to the body wearing it down.

You’ve also got to contend with what your uoa is saying. Every single day your engine wears. Because the uoa shows everything is ok doesn’t mean there isn’t an extreme or high amount of wear in the engine. It can tell you something is wearing too fast or you’ve got contaminated oil, or too harsh of a condition for the oil. Not exactly the health of the engine. Quite literally you could be good one day and dead turbo or beating the next

You know the cars, you maintain the cars. Take the one that is in better shape. I would be wary of a high mileage modified anything. My 2011 was at 100k when I sold it and although everything was good it was a ticking time bomb from abuse.
Thanks. Yes 200k is definitely pushing the limit especially on the WRXs.

The coilovers on the 5-speed is ST and the 4eat is ksport. Not anywhere close to the best, but definitely not Chinese eBay 200 dollar ones. It does make sense now that you mention about the impact transferred to the body and engine since the coilovers are hard.

I mean I am willing to pay for an engine rebuild, but is it worth it that's the question ... it just seems like if I do buy another 5k say civic I would have to spend another 2k to 3k to get everything replaced before I would say it is reliable, so in that case why not just spend 4k to 5k for an engine rebuild (think that is how much a new short block cost right?)

I know it is a ticking time bomb, literally everyday when I start the car I heard this lifter/piston slap/rod knock sound that scares the crap out of me but they're still running. lol

It just really sucks if the cars break down when you're trying to get from point a to point b, especially with a crap of ton in the back of your car during move.
 

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For 4 to 5 k if you are genuinely interested in investing that much I’d keep the one with the best body and take the manual trans and put together one of the best components plus maybe buy a new shortblock for about 2k while it’s out have the heads looked at and slap it back together and roll on
 
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