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Discussion Starter #1
I had no idea there had this section, moving on, I was on my way back home, I decided to do a moderate pull (4k rpm) all of a sudden a knocking/clunking noise started. The faster I went the louder it got, first things firs,to make sure it wasn't coming from my engine I revved it a few, sounded normal, then I let the car roll down a hill in neutral w/ engine off since I figured it only makes the sound when in motion. Nonetheless, again the noise came back, the faster down the hill the louder it was. It sounds like it is coming somewhere front right side of the car. All in all, I was wondering what can be some of the causes of this?



-- Car has 150k mi. on body, and 34k mi. on the engine.


it does the same "clunck" sound when the car is completely off and rolling down a hill in neutral. The sound is just a little less loud.

I really need help quick to find out the issue, I'm a student and use this car to get to campus. Thanks in advance for the help.
 

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Captain James of the SS Impreza has gone down with
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Clunks are usually a ball joint or a strut. It's very unlikely it's your axle or your transmission. Those tend to whine when they begin to fail.
 

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Pro Manscaper
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Wheel bearing? Almost too audible for that. Do you feel any shudder in the steering wheel?

If you turn it off...its not firing. Plus, if it's in neutral, your transmission and engine aren't engaged while rolling...
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Wheel bearing? Almost too audible for that. Do you feel any shudder in the steering wheel?

If you turn it off...its not firing. Plus, if it's in neutral, your transmission and engine aren't engaged while rolling...
That's what I'm saying, while my car is off/in neutral both engine and tranny aren't engaged so why is the noise still continuing? Even if I push it myself a few inches the noise will start. So my question is how can this be the transmission? I've been told by a few people that it can be the transmission.

Any ideas?
 

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You need to get the car up in the air (all 4, safely) and rotate a tire to try to locate the noise. The axle sounds like a good chance.

Oh and stop driving it.

What happens if you push in the clutch in N while rolling it?



"Abnormal Noises
Faulty clutch parts can make various noises. When an operator reports that a clutch is making noise, find out when the noise is heard. Does the sound occur when the pedal is moved, when in neutral, when in gear, or when the pedal is held to the floor? This will assist you in determining which parts are producing these noises.

An operator reports hearing a scraping, clunking, or squeaking sound when the clutch pedal is moved up or down. This is a good sign of a worn or unlubricated clutch release mechanism. With the engine off, pump the pedal and listen for the sound. Once the source of the sound is located, you should clean, lubricate, or replace the parts as required.

Sounds produced from the clutch, when the clutch is initially ENGAGED, are generally due to friction disc problems, such as a worn clutch disc facing, which causes a metal-to-metal grinding sound. A rattling or a knocking sound may be produced by weak or broken clutch disc torsion springs. These sounds indicate problems that require the removal of the transmission and clutch assembly for repair.

If clutch noises are noticeable when the clutch is DISENGAGED, the trouble is most likely the clutch release bearing. The bearing is probably either worn, binding, or, in some cases, loses its lubricant. Most clutch release bearings are factory lubricated; however, on some larger trucks and construction equipment, the bearing requires periodic lubrication. A worn pilot bearing may also produce noises when the clutch is disengaged. The worn pilot bearing can let the transmission input shaft and clutch disc vibrate up and down, causing an unusual noise.

Sounds heard in NEUTRAL, that disappear when the clutch pedal is pushed, are caused by problems inside the transmission. Many of these sounds are due to worn bearings. However, always refer to the troubleshooting chart in the manufacturer's manual. "
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update: Found out its either it's tranny/clutch. We were trying to push the car into a shop and it wouldn't even reverse. It will lock into Place until clutch is pressed down, then only we can continue pushing it.

The car still has that nasty sound to it. Any ideas? Ill have the money now to buy either clutch/ tranny just want to be sure which is faulty before spending money.

Thanks again :)

--- it could be worse, atleast it turns on. ** thinking positive.
 

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SuperNova
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My local subi tuner mentioned that he has seen a failure mode on the release bearing where the fingers on the pressure plate work harden and then break off, causing the release bearing to become a projectile, jettison, come apart and take out the nose cone on the tranny. Since the nose cone isn't replaceable, you have to replace the tranny. From what i got from him it was a semi-common failure mode, as he had seen it several times.

Hope its not that.
 

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Pro Manscaper
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I'm so confused.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My local subi tuner mentioned that he has seen a failure mode on the release bearing where the fingers on the pressure plate work harden and then break off, causing the release bearing to become a projectile, jettison, come apart and take out the nose cone on the tranny. Since the nose cone isn't replaceable, you have to replace the tranny. From what i got from him it was a semi-common failure mode, as he had seen it several times.

Hope its not that.
Sadly, I think this might be the cause. For some reason we went ahead to check the dipstick on the trans and somehow it was snapped off leaving only the handle. We were guessing something hit it seeing that its completely gone. That just a thought though.

Although if its the tranny its not much of a surprise to us, seeing that I have had a v8 twin scroll swap on my WRX for almost a year now and the tranny and clutch were still fine. I was told that a 5 speed tranny will not last long with that engine.
 

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SuperNova
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Sadly, I think this might be the cause. For some reason we went ahead to check the dipstick on the trans and somehow it was snapped off leaving only the handle. We were guessing something hit it seeing that its completely gone. That just a thought though.

Although if its the tranny its not much of a surprise to us, seeing that I have had a v8 twin scroll swap on my WRX for almost a year now and the tranny and clutch were still fine. I was told that a 5 speed tranny will not last long with that engine.
Yeah if your dipstick is gone, your tranny is farkled. With your engine mods you probably ate 2nd or third gear and sent the shrapnel through the case. Stick a fork in it.

PPG's or an sti swap. Either way you need a tranny and a clutch, and about $4000-$6000.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah if your dipstick is gone, your tranny is farkled. With your engine mods you probably ate 2nd or third gear and sent the shrapnel through the case. Stick a fork in it.

PPG's or an sti swap. Either way you need a tranny and a clutch, and about $4000-$6000.
4k - 6k for what? I'm confused if you mean I need to buy a tranny and clutch plus the 4k-6k for something else. All in all, I found a JDM v8 sti tranny for 2.5k.

I was going to do the sti tranny swap in the end of the summer either way. So I guess things got pushed ahead of time, unfortunately the money i had planned for suspensions, FMIC, and stage 2 tune is going off to this :(
 

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Bummer.
 

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SuperNova
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4k - 6k for what? I'm confused if you mean I need to buy a tranny and clutch plus the 4k-6k for something else. All in all, I found a JDM v8 sti tranny for 2.5k.

I was going to do the sti tranny swap in the end of the summer either way. So I guess things got pushed ahead of time, unfortunately the money i had planned for suspensions, FMIC, and stage 2 tune is going off to this :(
Total tranny swap with new clutch etc ends up running $4k-$6k
 

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Captain James of the SS Impreza has gone down with
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4k - 6k for what? I'm confused if you mean I need to buy a tranny and clutch plus the 4k-6k for something else. All in all, I found a JDM v8 sti tranny for 2.5k.

I was going to do the sti tranny swap in the end of the summer either way. So I guess things got pushed ahead of time, unfortunately the money i had planned for suspensions, FMIC, and stage 2 tune is going off to this :(
There is more to it than just swapping the transmission. You need to swap out the rear diff too, if the final drive gear is different, and depending on the year your car is you may need different axles. If I were you, I'd find used PPGs on NASIOC for ~3k.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Quick questionDo I 'Need' to have the rear swapped, or can I just have to front axels swapped with the tranny. I spoke to a company that sells JDM sti parts and they told me all I'll need is the tranny and front axles. I would like to know if this is true?

I'm just saying this because right now I don't have all the money to do the full swap. I spent the money I had on school necessities books and other stuff this semester.
 

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SuperNova
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Quick questionDo I 'Need' to have the rear swapped, or can I just have to front axels swapped with the tranny. I spoke to a company that sells JDM sti parts and they told me all I'll need is the tranny and front axles. I would like to know if this is true?

I'm just saying this because right now I don't have all the money to do the full swap. I spent the money I had on school necessities books and other stuff this semester.
What year is your car? How many speeds are in the tranny you are looking at, 5 or 6?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My car : 2004 WRX. -- Now I'm looking for a 6MT, either USDM or JDM. Which ever one is the most compatible (needing the least amount of things swapped over)
 

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SuperNova
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My car : 2004 WRX. -- Now I'm looking for a 6MT, either USDM or JDM. Which ever one is the most compatible (needing the least amount of things swapped over)
Ok. A USDM swap will be completely different than a JDM swap.

USDM Swap requires (05+ tranny):

tranny
clutch
clutch slave
clutch master ?
Front axles
rear axles
front hubs
rear hubs
rear diff
driveshaft
front and rear sti brakes
new wheels
DCCD controller and wiring (optional)

* USDM 04 swap may not require new wheels

I know the early JDM sti transmissions were 5 spd but the ratio's were super low so top speed and crusing rpm suffered. No idea what they entail different than the USDM swap.

Either way, a cheap USDM 6spd swap is in the neighborhood of $4000 if you do it all yourself. Take it to a shop and you are closer to if not north of $6000.

Another option is to rebuild your 5 spd with stronger gears. A PPG gear set can be what the doctor ordered, but just the gears are $4000. Install price usually hovers around $5700 to $6000 for a helical set.
 
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