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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
***UPDATE***: Initial test was a total fluke. IATs have consistently been 15-20 degrees above ambient since then when cruising, and between 130-170 when sitting. I'm cutting my losses with this intake and purchasing an AEM cold air intake. Short-rams =





So, I want to share my experience with this particular part to provide some insight for anyone considering it for their car. First off, I am in no way affiliated with Perrin, or any other aftermarket/performance part company. Now, that's out of the way. Let's begin. Forgive me if this is long-winded.

I own a 2006 WRX that I purchased in 2013, and with the exception of about four months ago, the car was completely stock for its entire life. I came into a little bit of money recently, and I decided it was time to start modifying. The bulk of the modifications were purchased all at once, and I have since added a few things here and there as I've seen fit. Initially, I purchased the following items together: Tomei UEL headers with uppipe, Invidia catless downpipe, Perrin cat-back exhaust, Perrin AOS, COBB electronic boost control solenoid, COBB Accessport V3, and of course, the Perrin short-ram intake. I already had a Tomei turbo inlet, as well as a Koyo aluminum racing radiator, and I have added a VF39, an AEM 320 fuel pump, and an STI top-mount intercooler.

Originally, I didn't pay any mind to my IATs, but after noticing that my ECU was pulling timing (car was down on power, acceleration was weaker), I decided to start monitoring them, as IATs over 125 degrees would cause timing to be pulled to save the engine. They were high, VERY HIGH, sometimes double the ambient temperature when not cruising (stop-and-go), and no less than 20-30 degrees above ambient when cruising. That was on a good day. I started looking into all options for engine bay heat management; I wrapped all exhaust components with the exception of the cat-back with DEI titanium, I wrapped my intake piping in DEI gold, and I purchased the SPT intake heat shield (it's the only one that will fit with the Perrin, to my knowledge) and also wrapped the side facing the engine in DEI gold, but still, nothing seemed to help. I even installed a Cusco radiator cooling plate, the idea being that it may also help act as a heat shield, as an aftermarket aluminum radiator give off significantly more heat than the OEM part. Nothing.

I could've just given up and tried a different intake, but I'm a problem-solver by nature, and I wanted to see if through my own ingenuity, I could make this work for me. Plus, I was already tuned for this intake, and I didn't really feel like paying for another retune as well. So, I decided to try something using OEM parts this time instead of aftermarket ones, namely, the intake snorkel and air box silencer. The inspiration for this idea came from a user called joejoe69, but I did it just slightly differently.

First, I sealed off any holes in the snorkel and silencer using body fasteners and high temp RTV sealant. The reason for this is because I wanted the air being channeled through the snorkel to stay inside of it on its way to the location of the intake. Next, I painted both the snorkel and silencer with VHT ceramic header paint. I don't remember how many coats I used, but it was a lot. I wanted to make sure they were properly coated, and I wanted them to stay as cool as possible, especially since the snorkel sits directly over the radiator. What's interesting to note, is that the factory intake snorkel also sits directly on top of the SPT heat shield where it is closest to the radiator, so my thinking here was that it would help block most of the heat from the radiator.

Well, turns out I was right. After I got everything back together, I went on a little test drive to see if it had actually been worth my time and effort. It was 92 degrees outside and sunny, and I was able to stay at around 7-8 degrees above ambient while cruising. Not too shabby for a short-ram intake, in my opinion. The IATs still increased when not moving, obviously, but not as much and once I got moving again I noticed they dropped much more quickly than they had in the past. Success. Needless to say, I was thrilled that my idea had actually worked, but I was also amazed that these parts actually served a purpose, especially since most people just throw them away when they start modding their car. I didn't realize it before, but the SPT intake heat shield is actually designed to be used in conjunction with the factory intake snorkel.

Now, I know that I probably spent way more on everything I did to prevent heat soak of the intake then it would have cost to buy a CAI or another short-ram with an included heat shield air box, but like I said before, I'm a problem-solver. Besides, having my exhaust components wrapped is beneficial either way. I hope this has helped provide some insight to anyone considering a SRI. Overall, I don't know if I would've gone the same route if I had known four months ago what I know now, but that's not meant to deter anyone from buying it. Used in conjunction with the Tomei turbo inlet, my turbo spools much quicker and it sounds excellent. Just be mindful that any SRI without the proper heat shielding will have the exact same problem.

Feel free to ask any questions, but keep it civil and don't turn this into a flame fest or a **** measuring contest. Thanks for reading!



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did u consider buying an extension elbow from perrin, or even off ebay to get that filter outta the engine bay?

thats my plan. got a perrin SRI for dirt cheap and the bent tube from an ebay one to make the extension that they sell for $130.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
did u consider buying an extension elbow from perrin, or even off ebay to get that filter outta the engine bay?

thats my plan. got a perrin SRI for dirt cheap and the bent tube from an ebay one to make the extension that they sell for $130.
****! That actually would've been a good idea. I wish I had thought of that before I ordered my AEM CAI. Oh, well, live and learn, I suppose.

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