You should start your own thread, but typically no. You should not slap on a bunch of bolt ons and drive anywhere. Typically if you are using a particular shop to tune your vehicle work with them to get your parts and advice. They will often sell you what they are comfortable with, know, and trust. Usually they will then provide you a limp tune to get to the shop for a full dyno tune.
I can't imagine why you would change your alternator, the stock one is more than ample, as are the stock coils, plugs, wires, and hoses. The fa20 in the 2015 and newer respond better to modifications to the intake side. So some typical upgrades include Intake, tgv deletes and egr deletes. The j-pipe or downpipe will also net you a solid amount and round out the basic beginner modifications.
I personally avoid intakes for 2 reasons. Cotton filters are garbage, and I hate the noise. However if you are deciding on going with an intake AEM makes filters called dry flow that will provide better flow than a paper filter and far superior filtering than a cotton filter. If you live somewhere dry and dusty avoid cotton filters completely. You'll never oil them right, and when you do its filtration is still poor at best.
Many companies sell staged packages and provide tunes via the Cobb AP including Cobb themselves. Tunes are not one size fits all and you'll need to buy exactly what the map notes tell you to. If it tells you its for a Cobb intake, it means that specific intake. Not AEM, not Grimmspeed, not Mishi, not ETS.
Also if your car is under warranty I would avoid this all together. Mechanics are not stupid they can tell whats been modified and returned to stock and the scan tool will clue them into the ECU being modified. This will result in you paying for any failure out of your own pocket and that gets super expensive super fast.