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hey guys Im new to the forum, I just bought on 02 wrx. I love the car, but the tuner bug has bitten already. I want a set up that spools up quicker than stock as the stock tune seems to feel dead unless the weather is cold. my only mod so far is an hks catback. everything else is stock. I am looking for direction as far as building a set up that maintains as much gas mileage as possible but with a quick spool up time. What does anybody suggest as far as e management. Hope someone can help
 

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hey guys Im new to the forum, I just bought on 02 wrx. I love the car, but the tuner bug has bitten already. I want a set up that spools up quicker than stock as the stock tune seems to feel dead unless the weather is cold. my only mod so far is an hks catback. everything else is stock. I am looking for direction as far as building a set up that maintains as much gas mileage as possible but with a quick spool up time. What does anybody suggest as far as e management. Hope someone can help
Welcome - links in sig for you(most notably the "bugeye" owners link)

I would recommend you flash to stage 1 for now. This will improve overall driveability. If you pickup a catless uppipe you should see boost a few hundred rpm earlier. A catless downpipe would allow you to properly flash a stage 2 map which will pretty likely get the car to where you want it.
 

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cold weather=better performance, lets see.......... as per laws of aerodynamics, they dont kick in(ie drag coefficients, downforce etc) until about 60mph roughly, first off, get rid of that TMIC(top mount intracooler), switch to a FMIC, youll have cold air from the get go, as due to the fact that its out in the front as opposed to underneath a hood scoop(we ran into this same problem on a turbo tercel build ive done, it came stock with a TMIC and the intercooler didnt really function until hwy speeds, due to areodynamics), that will help with mo' power, now as for the spooling, switch over to a dual ball bearing or ball bearing based turbo, it will have more power range, faster spool time, and less noise, increase the exhaust size, go ahead and go get a bmp twister spec, i put one on(a little pricey at 1200 for the full turbo back, but by the grace of god i gots it fo free) and noticed a dramatic change in low and mid range, remember less restriction on exhaust or intake equals more flow equals higher power an quicker, but its a double edged sword, dont go too big or you'll lose back pressure, also go with a nice bov(it also helps to eliminate some boost creep issues you may have later on down the road), anyways, other than that a port n polish would help, as would a new manifold, choose your weapons wisely!
 

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cold weather=better performance, lets see.......... as per laws of aerodynamics, they dont kick in(ie drag coefficients, downforce etc) until about 60mph roughly, first off, get rid of that TMIC(top mount intracooler), switch to a FMIC, youll have cold air from the get go, as due to the fact that its out in the front as opposed to underneath a hood scoop(we ran into this same problem on a turbo tercel build ive done, it came stock with a TMIC and the intercooler didnt really function until hwy speeds, due to areodynamics), that will help with mo' power, now as for the spooling, switch over to a dual ball bearing or ball bearing based turbo, it will have more power range, faster spool time, and less noise, increase the exhaust size, go ahead and go get a bmp twister spec, i put one on(a little pricey at 1200 for the full turbo back, but by the grace of god i gots it fo free) and noticed a dramatic change in low and mid range, remember less restriction on exhaust or intake equals more flow equals higher power an quicker, but its a double edged sword, dont go too big or you'll lose back pressure, also go with a nice bov(it also helps to eliminate some boost creep issues you may have later on down the road), anyways, other than that a port n polish would help, as would a new manifold, choose your weapons wisely!
The hood scoop on our cars is fine for most people, unless you are sitting in stop and go traffic you should not see an increase in intake temps from the top mount intercooler.

Don't put a BOV on your subaru unless you are going to convert from MAF to MAP. The BPV serves the exact same purpose that a BOV does. If you are running high boost (~24psi) then you may wish to upgrade to a better unit. 100% Recirculated BOV's are fine, and also synonomous from a functionality standpoint as a BPV.

I run 20psi and my stock BPV is fine. I have the STI TMIC which is a bit larger than the WRX stocker, and have not seen any compelling reason to change to a FMIC. While the FMIC does benefit from it's location, it also is placed in a very damage prone area as compared to the TMIC. The TMIC also benefits from very little piping required and thus less pressure drop as compared to a FMIC, though honestly the pressure drop is not a big deal.
 

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get some intercooler hoses. you'll notice a slight difference in spool. Plus the uppipe will help with spool and piece of mind, there were cases with the cat breaking apart and damaging the turbo. uppipe install is a pain, or so i hear, and the downpipe gets removed for the install anyway so save yourself two installs and do both the downpipe and uppipe together.
 

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Get Cobb AP, flash stage 1, then go get an uppipe and downpipe, bellmouth-style, and if thats not a enough keep going with fuel and turbo.

Also you could get AP then do a lot of suspension mods, if you are into auto cross or road racing.

Hope this was some help to you! Good luck with your car!
 

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cold weather=better performance, lets see.......... as per laws of aerodynamics, they dont kick in(ie drag coefficients, downforce etc) until about 60mph roughly, first off, get rid of that TMIC(top mount intracooler), switch to a FMIC, youll have cold air from the get go, as due to the fact that its out in the front as opposed to underneath a hood scoop(we ran into this same problem on a turbo tercel build ive done, it came stock with a TMIC and the intercooler didnt really function until hwy speeds, due to areodynamics), that will help with mo' power, now as for the spooling, switch over to a dual ball bearing or ball bearing based turbo, it will have more power range, faster spool time, and less noise, increase the exhaust size, go ahead and go get a bmp twister spec, i put one on(a little pricey at 1200 for the full turbo back, but by the grace of god i gots it fo free) and noticed a dramatic change in low and mid range, remember less restriction on exhaust or intake equals more flow equals higher power an quicker, but its a double edged sword, dont go too big or you'll lose back pressure, also go with a nice bov(it also helps to eliminate some boost creep issues you may have later on down the road), anyways, other than that a port n polish would help, as would a new manifold, choose your weapons wisely!
Please do some research on the WRX before offering advice on this site.


1: A large TMIC is more than enough until you get into the 275-300whp range. A FMIC with the stock turbo is almost worthless.
2: I agree with your advice on a bearing turbo, but it's not necessary. The stock turbo can be made to spool quite fast.
3: On turbo cars, the best exhaust is no exhaust. A 3" turbo back works quite well on WRX applications. N/A cars lose back pressure.
4: The WRX intake is designed quite well right from the factory. It's good up to 350whp or so. A nice short ram intake might net you a few ponies, but not much. Cold air intakes confuse the MAF on our cars, so don't go that route.
5: Because our cars are MAF, not MAP, switching to a 100% atmospheric BOV will cause driveability issues. The stock BPV on our cars is good to 18-20psi. If you are running more than that, upgrade to an aftermarket BPV, not BOV.
6: I agree a port and polish would help, but much more power and quicker spool can be had without it.
7: The WRX manifold flows quite well. When you get into higher HP applications, a P&P may help, but not very much at stock levels.


My advice assuming you're willing to spend a few dollars:

1: Catless turbo back exhaust. These can be had for cheap on Ebay.
2: Catless uppipe. These can be had for cheap on Ebay.
3: Giant Ebay TMIC with silicon hoses.
4: Lightened aluminum crank pulley. (not underdriven)
5: K&N Typhoon short ram intake with heat shield.
6: Cobb Accessport (engine management is the key component here)
7: Protune (getting the car professionally tuned)

A stock 2002 WRX has approx. 160whp. This setup will yield approx. 230-250WHP depending on the dyno, tuner, and elevation. The spool will be DRAMATICALLY increased. A car with this tune will have almost no lag, and will pull much harder up top.
 

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well train, if you actually read what i was writing, and what he originally posted, he was saying that at slower speeds it wasnt quite as fast, i wasnt disputing how much the intercooler could handle, i was saying that they dont function AS WELL as a front mount under 60 mph due to simple aerodynamics and the fact that "adaquate"(for lack of a better word) air isnt being pushed into the cowl below that, plus i would assume that sitting on top of the engine they do have maybe some minor heat soak issues, in the end, honda, subie, toyota, nissan, its all nuts and bolts and their all pretty much subject to the same rules(granted diff's btw maps n mafs etc) but i do agree with your saying no to cold air intakes, industry term is "engine killers"
 

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Don't worry about a front mount. You won't see a beneficial difference until much higher HP. Catless up pipe and 3in tbe will work wonders, thats my next upgrade. With that you need engine management to make sure its running correctly and safely. Upgrade to an STi topmount or maybe the TurboXS topmount. Do all hoses, some people would suggest a koyo radiator. And the best upgrade for your car period is wheels/tires. Get the best you can and you will notice a world of difference in how it feels.
 

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well train, if you actually read what i was writing, and what he originally posted, he was saying that at slower speeds it wasnt quite as fast, i wasnt disputing how much the intercooler could handle, i was saying that they dont function AS WELL as a front mount under 60 mph due to simple aerodynamics and the fact that "adaquate"(for lack of a better word) air isnt being pushed into the cowl below that, plus i would assume that sitting on top of the engine they do have maybe some minor heat soak issues, in the end, honda, subie, toyota, nissan, its all nuts and bolts and their all pretty much subject to the same rules(granted diff's btw maps n mafs etc) but i do agree with your saying no to cold air intakes, industry term is "engine killers"
Yes, they're all subject to the same basic rules, but some things vary from car to car. The mod path on a Supra is very different than the mod path on a Subaru.

Our cars are very sensitive to cold/hot weather. Bigger FMIC/TMIC or not, the power is still going to fluctuate with the weather. A stock tune WRX with a TD04 doesn't function well with the added plumbing of a front mount. The setup I posted could support a front mount, but he would still have extra lag.

Oh, and lose the attitude or your stay here will be short.
 

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:rotfl::rotfl:

Apparently some people don't read the little notes under SNs...

 

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Recipie for fast spool on stock turbo: (some info repeated)

Port/polished/ceramic coated turbo
Ported/polished/ceramic coated stock manifolds or EL header(wrapped)
ported/polished ic elbows
catless up-pipe (wrapped or coated)
catless downpipe
turbo inlet
intercooler hoses
ported/polished TB
retune with 3 port BCS (Perrin,Grainger,GM)
Snorkus/resonator delete with high flow filter and velocity stack
 

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Recipie for fast spool on stock turbo: (some info repeated)

Port/polished/ceramic coated turbo
Ported/polished/ceramic coated stock manifolds or EL header(wrapped)
ported/polished ic elbows
catless up-pipe (wrapped or coated)
catless downpipe
turbo inlet
intercooler hoses
ported/polished TB
retune with 3 port BCS (Perrin,Grainger,GM)
Snorkus/resonator delete with high flow filter and velocity stack
hey, dead link in your sig: http://www.spdusa.com/blow-off_valves.htm
 

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I would suggest if you get a downpipe get the rest of the exhaust done at the same time and skip the stage 1 and get the stage 2 COBB. stage 1 is for more stock setups and the stage 2 requires a turbo back exhaust. If you really want to see the gains from the downpipe install get the stage 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks guys for all the responses. I actually planned on workin on the suspension and brakes b4 engine upgrades. I agree with the up-pipe down pipe upgrade. What I did want to know is at what point would i need to upgrade fuel. If I did the reflash...could I still run stock injectors...also what reflash would u recommend. Ive been looking at the cobb unit but there are other units out there that may be better like greddy...which would best suit my car?...pro's and cons on each if anyone has them
 
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