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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so to start with I have a 06 wrx vf39ed with a AP, sti tmic, full catless TBE, a new clutch and a light wight flywheel (at least 2500 miles on the clutch and flywheel never had any problems with them). Two days ago I did a pull from a 4th gear roll, ran the gear and when I shifted into 5th I got a check engine light. AP read it as misfire cylinder one. I have new NKGS less than a 1000 miles old. So I got to the house pulled the plug and it was a little black but not to bad. Cleaned it regaped to .030 and stuck it back in light flips on agine. So far we have swapped the plugs and coil packs from 3 to 1 and nothing has changed. Did a compesssion check came back as 155. Cleaned the MAF sensor. Nothing has helped. We were wanting to swap the fuel injectors but can not get a replacement for at least three days and dont want to risk ruining one of the o rings on the injectors and I am currently at my brothers house and have a six hunderd mile drive home on sat. morning. One thing I have noticed is in the monitoring section on the AP there is one called cylinder roughness, there is one for all four cylinders, only cylinder one is reading anything and its only reading when I am at idle or on the gas, it stops the count when i am decelerating. Does anyone know what this means? I called cobb and the guy I talked to really wasent much help. " Cam timing. Check cam timing per the service manual.8. Excessive PCV blow by. PVC gases will effectively lower the octane content of gasoline/petrol. " was all on donkeys misfire sticky page and are about the only two I have not checked along with the injectors. Has anyone had any experancie changing the injector? Do I need to worry about the O rings and being able to reuse them? I also need to research the pcv thing any one no how hard it is to change that? Also in on the cam timing he say to refer to the service manual, anyone know how to get ahold of one of thoughs easily. Any ideas or thoughs would be great thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
That was the compression for just the number one cylinder I manage to have the end of the compression gauge unscrew from the brass cupler while it was still in the spark plug hole and had to use a screw extractor to get it out so I am getting a new one tommarrow and will finsh the test. I no thats a big part that I need to get done but it was to late to go get one tonight will post result later. No I do not have accsess to a leakdown kit. Shoudnt the compression test tell if there is a problem and the leakdown test is just a more precise way of doing it to help pin point whats wrong? If there is a big diffreances please explain it as I am kind of new to these test.
 

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Are you tuned for your modifications? Are you tuned with the lightweight flywheel?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am runnning the AP vf 39 map following the map notes and no i guess i am nit tuned for the lightweight flywheel. Dont think u need to be for the flywheel.
 

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Who is to say it isn't the flywheel? On deceleration the injectors are turned off. If the car is not noticeably running any different I wouldn't worry about it until you can get home. The leak down test can help pinpoint a valve issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
is there a away to tell if its the flywheel? With the injectors being off on decelreation is one of the main reasons we thought it was a injector. But we were able to unplug the injector and it ran noticably worse if it even works like that, we were also thinking just a gumed up injector thats only partialy fireing. I also had so diffrent gas in the tank this time BP 93 oct, usually runnning shell 91 or 93 oct. I have already put in some injector cleaner and topped off with some new shell 92. How much injector cleaner is to much in one tank anyone know, I have only put one bottle in and ran only a small quarter through it. I know it take probley more than that but I guess i have some what of a hard time runnning it with a the check engine light on. its also wired that i have never had a problem with the flywheel before, I am notit isnt the problem but its just wired I am so lost on the problem...... man I need a new injector.... i think.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
is there a chance of damageing anything with a particialy firing injector
well got the compression check done cyl 1 150 cyl 3 149 cyl 2 150 cyl 4 148 so thats good numbers
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Ok so I got back home and got my injectors switch from 1 to 3 and 3 to 1 and my misfire did not move so i am starting to think that I slipped the timing belt a notch. I was reading a big debate on Nasioc about the PCV and whether it a valve and a hole bunch of other stuff. One thing I did not read in the debate is how a bad pcv can cause a misfire. Dont know if I just missed it or what but if someone can enlighten me that would be great. Maybe I can get Donkey to pipe in about the cam timing andn how I check that because I am starting to run out of ideas. I am thinking I need to get the timing cover off and see if the marks line up on the sprocket and the belt. Question if the timing belt slipped a notch wouldent that make it misfire on both cylinders? any Idea would be great thanks on a side note the flywheel I have installed is 14.7 lbs so not to light.
 

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Ok so I got back home and got my injectors switch from 1 to 3 and 3 to 1 and my misfire did not move so i am starting to think that I slipped the timing belt a notch. I was reading a big debate on Nasioc about the PCV and whether it a valve and a hole bunch of other stuff. One thing I did not read in the debate is how a bad pcv can cause a misfire. Dont know if I just missed it or what but if someone can enlighten me that would be great. Maybe I can get Donkey to pipe in about the cam timing andn how I check that because I am starting to run out of ideas. I am thinking I need to get the timing cover off and see if the marks line up on the sprocket and the belt. Question if the timing belt slipped a notch wouldent that make it misfire on both cylinders? any Idea would be great thanks on a side note the flywheel I have installed is 14.7 lbs so not to light.
PVC gasses effectively lower the octane rating of gasoline. This causes detonation issues,not missfires so much. But I guess PVC gasses could gum stuff up. You could use Seafoam to decarbonize the engine and see if something changes. As far as cam timing,it would effect two cylinders and not just one. Have you read this?

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/gener...553-if-you-have-misfire-code-please-read.html
 

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Discussion Starter #12
PVC gasses effectively lower the octane rating of gasoline. This causes detonation issues,not missfires so much. But I guess PVC gasses could gum stuff up. You could use Seafoam to decarbonize the engine and see if something changes. As far as cam timing,it would effect two cylinders and not just one. Have you read this?

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/gener...553-if-you-have-misfire-code-please-read.html
Well I need to check the pvc. Is there a way to check valve clearances other that a compression check. Later in that link you gave me, you guys were talking about buckets to adjust valve clearances or something like that, can you explain more on that. Is there a way to have some other type internal problem that would not show up on a compression test. I am still a little new to the major intrnals. Also yes that link you gave me has gotten me this far. The only things I have not check was pvc, frp hose and the carbon build up. On the note of the frp hose exactly which hose is that? I cant seem to find a good pic or explantion. I have been over like the hole top part of my engine and havent seen any loose hoses. Any more input or ideas would be great.
 

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One issue I notice here which is not good is the multiple fuel grades. These cars modified really need to be very specific on fuel used. You can't bounce around from 93 to 91 to 92 and have a happy healthy car. Your car will run best with 93, stick to 93..
 

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You check the valve clearances by checking the valve "lash". This is done by removing the valve covers, rotating each cylinder to TDC and checking the lash between the cam and buckets/shims. FPR=Fuel Pressure Regulator. The vacuum hose has a tendency to pop off on it since it has no barbed end.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok so as of now my car has been setting collection dust for about a month now as I have had no time to work on it but yesterday I popped the hood and was just kind of looking around and I pulled out the oil dipstick and noticed that its way full and the oil smells like gas. I had checked the oil before I had left to come home and it read good so I guess between the drive home fuel was getting into the oil. Now I no this is not good for anything espicailly bearings but I am draining it today and going to run another compression test. My question is how does fuel get into the oil? I was getting bad gas mileage on the way home so I know where some of it was going but now what does that tell me? I well post the results of the compression test later today and go from their I guess. Any input would be great thanks.
 

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It gets in the oil due to running super rich. Hence the bad gas mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok so I was out pulling the spark plugs and noticed that it appears that my turbo inlet plastic pos may be the cluprit. it looks like the turbo buckeled the plastic peice and I am getting a lot of extra air. So I am think this is my problem.
 
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