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Discussion Starter #1
Is anyone running the MAPerformance Stage 2 map with any aftermarket J-pipe and their Intake? Any positives or negatives? There are plenty of reviews on their stage 1 map, but not many on their stage 2 map.

And I know that MAPerformance requires that you use their Intake for the Stage 2 map.
 

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I installed their CAI and stage 2 tune last weekend, so far I'm liking it much better than COBB's CAI and tune. Car feels much stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you using Cobb's J-pipe? I'm looking for J-pipe recommendations as well.

Grimmspeed? Cobb? etc.
 

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BooSTIng
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I have never been a fan of cobb's exhaust. Overpriced, and it tapers down to a 2.5 inch before the catback, so it isn't a true 3 inch turboback.

Not sure about MAPerformance's map requirements, but I know cobbs are made for a catted j pipe. So any J pipe with a high flow cat would work. I would suggest Grimmspeed, or Invidia.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was thinking Grimmspeed, but I'm still leaving the door open to others.

As far as their Stage 2 map goes, this is the requirement that they list on their page:

Please Note: Requires MAP Intake, Any Catted/Catless Aftermarket J-Pipe and the Secondary Boost Pill MUST be Removed
 

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Æternum
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I have never been a fan of cobb's exhaust. Overpriced, and it tapers down to a 2.5 inch before the catback, so it isn't a true 3 inch turboback.
1. You must be talking about the GR exhaust. Cobb's GD exhaust was damn near perfect in tone and level.
2. The taper is nearly inconsequential. The restriction to overall flow would not be noticed at any reasonable power.
 

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I recently bought their kit. Went with catted and mufflers. Really liked the quality of parts. The welds were beautiful. I briefly went Cobb stage 1 flash just before I got around to installing the parts. The intake sounds awesome. I thought it could be annoying but actually love it and it's not too loud driving around normal. The exhaust sounds great and isn't obnoxiously loud.

As for the tune I'm new to the whole tuning/access port. I'm running their 91 tune on 93 fuel. It's typical for me to register a -1.41 feedback knock on hard pulls to about 6k. Dam has never changed from 1 ever. I ran the 93 very briefly and saw a -2.81 feedback knock.

Love it so far and I enjoy the car 100x more than stock and way more than Cobb stage 1. Call and order from Ian (he typically gives a discount).


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Discussion Starter #8
This may be a dumb question but on the MAP page they have a Downpipe and a J-pipe. What's the difference? There is a bit of a price difference.
 

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Down pipe and j pipe are the same thing. Map's own downpipe (manufactured in house by them) is two pieces where as grimspeeds is one piece. They also retail other brands.

Map's downpipe with a high flow cat is 100 bucks more than if you get their downpipe catless.


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This may be a dumb question but on the MAP page they have a Downpipe and a J-pipe. What's the difference? There is a bit of a price difference.
The STI uses a down pipe and the WRX uses a J pipe, be careful when ordering.

Yes, people who don't know better call the J pipe a down pipe, but it is not.
 

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Latest update: revised intake pipe was the fix. I have experienced no issues since the install. Super impressed with MAPs customer service and won't hesitate to buy from them in the future.

Figured I should update. I experienced a strange issue that others have reported with their stage 2 kit. Probably 3-4 times since the install (I've probably put 2.5k miles on stage 2) my car has stalled or more like shut off. It restarts without issue. Typically it took place while turning as I downshifted to second gear and let the clutch out as I completed the turn.

Related or not, I experienced the same sort of stall if I would shift in and out of different gears without letting my clutch out. For example driving in third, clutch in, shift to fourth, decide to stay in third, so never having let the clutch out in fourth, shift back into third. I don't regularly do this, but when it does I thought about what I had done and realized it could be replicated. No idea if it's related, but this sequence would almost always make the car shut off/stall.

I contacted MAP and advised them of my issues. They stated it was an issue with the intake pipe and would send me a new one to correct the problem. I got the new pipe installed yesterday. The MAF sensor location is completely different, the pipe is a bit longer (which is nice because I like the higher location of the filter now in the engine bay). I haven't driven it much, but everything seems to be good. Happy with Map for shipping out a redesigned pipe very quickly at no cost.

Also for a really short period my dam did drop below 1 to like .812, but within a couple days went to .875 and then back to 1 and I'm seeing very little feedback knock again, just the occasional -1.41. It was more frequent during the short time the dam wasn't at 1. It was really hot those couple of days. Since then it has been real hot, but hasn't come off of 1.


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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I finally took the plunge this weekend, and took on the Stage 2 mod. Everything was going great...Both O2 sensors came out with no issues whatsoever, heat shields came off, and 3 of the nuts to the turbo came off like butter. Then came bolt number 4 (top right), ended up rounding the POS.

So WTF do I do now? Tried heat and a bolt out socket...No dice. It was completely circular at that point, and would not budge. There was nothing left to do but swallow what pride I did have left, and call the exhaust/muffler shop close by. They said they could get me in, in a couple of hours, which allowed me to get everything re-installed so that I could drive it. Minus all of the heat shields of course.

The mechanic gets it on the lift, takes a look at it, and says "You sure did a number on that one". And he tells me, "At this point I'm going to have to torch it, and use the air chisel". I said lets just do it. He gets that sucker glowing orange, gets the air chisel on it and says that he thinks it moved, but he wasn't sure. So he gets it glowing orange again, gets the air chisel on it again, and Boom! The POS broke loose, and it finally came off.

Then the guy tells me that he's not going to charge me, but I gave him $40 anyway. He saved my a$$, not to mention my whole project.

I think everything is looking and sounding good at this point. Keeping an eye on the AF Learning, which hit 14.74 a couple of times, but Feedback Knock and DAM are all good.
 

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Had this Stage 2 mod with MAP intake and Jpipe for about 6 months.
Had issues and still having issues. My DAM is 0.483 and my FKL hits -9.84 between 3200 - 4000 RPM.

Looking for advice on this old thread. Thanks!
 

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If your dam is .4 you've got a major problem. Like. Undrivable problem.

What have you done to diagnose your issue
 

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If your dam is .4 you've got a major problem. Like. Undrivable problem.

What have you done to diagnose your issue
yeah well... I've tried out a different map with lower octane (I live where 93 is available). So I tried going with 91 to try and see if it works but it didn't hold out too well. Timing and feedback knock is fine until hitting 3200 to 4000 RPM range. Feedback Knock Stays 0 during this whole event. I need to check to see if there are any vacuum leaks but the car does run fine until trying to boost in that range. Other than trying out different maps (I tried going MAPerformance Stage 2 and also the COBB stage 2 to see if made a difference), no real troubleshooting steps were actually taken yet. I didn't want to start ripping the car apart without any direction.
 

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Yeah, you need to stop all of that and actually find out what's wrong .4 is sign of a massive issue. You will need to find the mechanical problem. Be it giant leak or bad coil or plug. Something is mechanically jacked.

Unless you want to replace the engine I'd stop driving it. It's possible doing all of that silly nonsense knowing you had a massive knock problem may have already smoked a piston so do a leakdown and compression test. Also check the tgv valves they tend to leak really bad after a few years.
 
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