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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I have a 2001 Jap import WRX (bug eye) i bought it stock as a rock with 5 speed manual and it was pretty quick , 0-100km is 5.1sec, it ran 194kw at all four.

Since i got it, i put in a
Ram pipe with pod into the fog light ( because we cant have them on 95% of time so its a $144.00 fine)
HKS performance injectors
HKS boost controller with gauge ( running 18psi) with a stock VF32 turbo


It is currently waiting for a gear box 6 speed STI with main shaft and DIF from the same STI, importing from japan.
I bought a TD06-20G turbo with external waist gate, GOV, Down pipe with no cat,
Bosch 040 fuel pump
Front mount intercooler with piping
Cosworth head gaskets

I know i need to get the rest of the exhaust to match the 3.5' down pipe, better injectors, computer.

What i would like to find out if any one had a simular seat up or used a TD06-20G turbo and what other internals should i change so my engine does not POP lol
 

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People generally don't change internals for a 20G.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
But i just been told by most of people that running it on 300kw or close to it will be on boundary to blowing something up just want to make sure the engine is ready for the power to come.
 

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There are people (Sinister, for instance) who were running a good bit more power than a 20G will produce on stock internals and are (Or well, were) fine. It's really all in the tune, and how you take care of it. Also, I'm not familiar with euro/aussie subies, but I don't believe even the euro model bugeye WRX's came with a VF32 stock, unless it's the STi model?

Edit: Which, being a 5 speed, I don't think it's an STi. So unless I'm just completely wrong, I'd try to figure out what kind of tune is on it now, if any. Also, MBC's are a fairly dangerous mod to use on a WRX. They can be used properly and be alright, just don't try to crank it up to like 22 PSI. Which, if you're at 18, you aren't gonna do.

Edit again: Sigh. Come to think of it, sinister was running an STi with the USDM EJ257 block, the 2.0 internals might not be quite so willing to take the punishment. Regardless, with a good tune and if you don't rev the piss out of it, it should (operative word being SHOULD) hold up pretty well. But, you also have to realize we have aluminum heads and blocks, which warp very easily, and a turbo pushing a lot of heat into the engine...So keep an eye on your head gaskets. Get a set of ARP Head studs to go with those cosworth gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks mate really helpful!

I got the Jap import one and when i got it i ran a dyno with VF32 and come out 194kw with no boost controller and it was running 9psi, now i run 18 on the same turbo.

Its a normal WRX, not STI and yeah a 5 speed, well i love to come as close as i can to red line ;) what mods can i do to update it and so i can you know make a mistake of red line and now i will pop something hahah

I will defiantly run a good tune on it ;D

Much appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks mate really helpful!

I got the Jap import one and when i got it i ran a dyno with VF32 and come out 194kw with no boost controller and it was running 9psi, now i run 18 on the same turbo.

Its a normal WRX, not STI and yeah a 5 speed, well i love to come as close as i can to red line ;) what mods can i do to update it and so i can you know make a mistake of red line and now i will pop something hahah

I will defiantly run a good tune on it ;D

Much appreciated
 

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Hmm. I don't know the specs on jdm wrx's, but that seems low. and I guess the vf32 at 9 psi would make sense but... I'm pretty sure the stock boost on my USDM bugeye is like 13.5 or 15 or something along those lines, but the tdo4-13t is a much smaller turbo, so the difference could be there. In all honesty, with a good tune and the set up you have going, you shouldn't really have a problem. I wouldn't ever touch the rev limiter, but getting a little close on occasion shouldn't technically hurt the engine, as long as it's at its optimal operating temperature, and has no preexisting issues. Just don't dump the clutch at 6000 RPM's or shift into 2nd at 75 miles an hour, and you should be alright.
If you wanted to go crazy on it, you could do new cams, rods, pistons, bearings, valve springs, crank, etc. If you want it to spin a little higher more safely, I'm pretty sure it's viable to get the crank polished up and allow it to spin slightly higher, though I would do alot more research and an aftermarket crank would probably be the best bet.
On another note, running a meth and water injection system could help out alot. Methanol is pretty cheap, and so is distilled water. It's an add on tank in the engine bay, most of them say something like "check often, refill roughly every 2 tanks of gas", 50/50 distilled water and methanol. This system, with a tune of course, chemically cools the engine, allowing you to run higher boost and advanced timing more safely, and thus aquire more power. Pretty significant amount of it too. Oh, and methanol makes the combustion a little more powerful to begin with, also adding more power.
 

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194 kW is tremendous power; are you sure you weren't at 0,9 bar rather than 9 PSI? Just curious.

Also, if you have a JP grey car with a 5 SPD that is NOT the world spec export gearbox, keep the gearbox in my view, you will be much faster than with a US style world box.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks mate im just doing to start looking into the getting the crank polished or a aftermarket crank :D and the fuel mix
 

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If you're gonna split the block apart anyway for the crank, it may be worthwhile to do the bearings as well. But that's probably just me being paranoid because I spun a bearing a while back.

On another note, I agree with SD_GR, 194 kW is an awful lot for 9 psi. The stock boost gauge reads in bars, which is in reference to barometric pressure. .9 bar would make alot of sense- That would be up towards what the stock boost should be. Although I'm still confused by it being stock and having a VF series turbo
 

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you should stick to your vf32 you wont see much gains using a td06 20g it will be slugish low end and hit hard at top, im running td05 big 16g at 22psi stock internals pushing out 320whp full boost by 3700rpm vf 32 with some work will go really good
 

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Discussion Starter #15
the car is currently at the work shop, the engine is out im getting the full works done as you guys recomended, crank, shaft, velve springs, bearings, pistons, cam, rods, front coller, TD06-20g, fog lights out and a air intake,

BUT i ran into a problem :( my box has arrived and guess what, its does not fit!

i can get one but its a GC8 version 5 or a 05 model.

Will they fit my bug eye?
 
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