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Discussion Starter #1
Well I got my new block put in a couple weeks ago. Went ahead and put 700 miles on it. Was doing my first nice pull. 4th gear to 4000 RPMs and it was like a fuel cut. Lost power. Checked all my hoses etc. Everything was connected. I was running it off waste gate spring ~14 psi. So I had to get up a pretty large hill and wouldn't let me rev over 3k.

I had a couple CELs:
Cam position Sensor malfunction
Air temp sensor high input
4 TGV codes. I had them removed.

So I find out today that those TGV codes and throw the ECU into Limp Mode along with over boosting, and detonation.

Right now it will barely turn over and when it does the idle is rough and the RPM needle is very shaking. Driving it, it will take no load. Stalls out when the RPMs drop.

Modlist

100mm Wiesco Pistons, Helix H Beam rods, ACL main bearings, Cometic .40 head gaskets, FPgreen, UTEC.

Ask me some questions if I had left anything out. I need this car to be finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Protune.protune.protune.
Its got a tune on it.. yes its a little rich but its got a tune. I'm just asking if anybody else has this problem.

I need to disable the TGV CELs.
 

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The tune will disable the TGV codes.
 

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i gotta agree with theses guys

to get rid of the tvg codes you can but the part from aps
 

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I know with a Cobb AP and ST you can uncheck the DTC so that it will not be checked. I know because that's what I did after my TGV's were gutted/welded/polished.

I'm not sure if UTEC can do this.

You can buy the very expensive TGV delete from APS which has connectors for the TGV and spoofs what the ECU needs to see so that you don't get a CEL. If you do, it would be really really nice to put a multimeter on it to find out if a simple resistor can be used.
 

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I know with a Cobb AP and ST you can uncheck the DTC so that it will not be checked. I know because that's what I did after my TGV's were gutted/welded/polished.

I'm not sure if UTEC can do this.

You can buy the very expensive TGV delete from APS which has connectors for the TGV and spoofs what the ECU needs to see so that you don't get a CEL. If you do, it would be really really nice to put a multimeter on it to find out if a simple resistor can be used.
i have the aps peice... how can i check if a resistor will work ?
i saw on nasioc they had just the peices for the harness for like 100$
 

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i have the aps peice... how can i check if a resistor will work ?
i saw on nasioc they had just the peices for the harness for like 100$
How many prongs are there? Use a multimeter to measure voltage and/or resistance on everything. Take a look at the service manual and see if they specify the voltage, or even which wires ultimately run to the TGV. Post the results in a thread, and hopefully someone smart can figure out what needs to be done to keep the ECU happy. It would save alot of people time and money if it could be done.

I have a friend who owns a shop and I think has done this type of thing to get his piggyback to work with Mazda's VICS (similar to subaru TGV). Personally, when I ran into an issue with my TGV's being damaged - I already had the Cobb AP, and I was going to have to either replace them or remove them. I called and spoke with Cobb, they said the ST would let me kill the codes. I had the shop pull the TGV's out and gut/weld/polish, then I had Cobb send me a copy of the 93octane vf34 map in StreetTuner format, I unchecked the checkboxes next to the TGV related codes, saved the map - flashed it to the AP, then to the ECU - and it's been no CEL for me ever since. I am catless and plug in for state inspection - I passed.
 

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How many prongs are there? Use a multimeter to measure voltage and/or resistance on everything. Take a look at the service manual and see if they specify the voltage, or even which wires ultimately run to the TGV. Post the results in a thread, and hopefully someone smart can figure out what needs to be done to keep the ECU happy. It would save alot of people time and money if it could be done.
iight ill try it this weekend
im not sure if its gonna work tho

i think tvg are only really activate on a cold start but ill try
 

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What MAF are you running?
 

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I think you must delete the codes. The TGV's have an angle sensor that tells the ECU what position it is in. You wont be able to simulate that.
 

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I think you must delete the codes. The TGV's have an angle sensor that tells the ECU what position it is in. You wont be able to simulate that.
you can
 

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NDA be damned, someone must know

+1

The APS piece doesn't have a TGV butterfly in it, yet it plugs into the stock wiring and keeps the ECU happy. I'd say they're simulating it. I'm sure they've got the thing packed full of epoxy so that if you were to try prying into it you'd only destroy it, this is typical of aftermarket solutions anyway.

If only we had a Subaru/FHI designer/engineer on the forum.
 

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I'm curious how they do it. The sensor is a potentiometer, like a tps. Is the motor still there and the rod?
 

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All the tgv deletes i've seen dont have anything on them and the codes had to be unchecked.
 
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