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Discussion Starter #1
I've been a forum subscriber for a while now, but have restricted my comments to non-performance issues.

I keep reading about goals to acheive max WHP and torque, which I think is great. However, at what point does the law of diminishing streetable returns come into play?

I too want maximum hp and thrust, but don't want to sacrefice streetability, reliability, or user friendliness in the process. I'm willing to give up ten-tenths ultimate power to know that my 8/10 daily driver will get me to work every time.

What mod path should I take and how far do I turn up the wick with this in mind.


Thanks,
-B4.
 

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I guess this would all depend on your definition of "Streetable". The law of diminishing returns you spoke of begins with your very first mod. Keep in mind, that some mods will reduce the return quicker than others. A cat back exhaust will net lesser gains than say a UTEC, but reliability isn't reduced nearly as much. Fact is, the more power you choose to make, the lesser the reliability.

Of course this doesn't apply to cosmetic mods. A dead pedal isn't going to cause you to spin a bearing or anything.
 

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Basic mods should yield you some positive results without decreasing relability issues.

cat back exhaust, with a good down pipe can yield you 20-50Hp depending on your model of car.

Try that first, but one word of caution once the MOD bug hits its hard to escape.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was looking to go up pipe, down pipe, catback, UTEC, grounding kit, and short ram intake to start with. I know the UTEC plays with fuel metering and boost, but are they conservative out of the box?

What mods beyond this push the reliability envelope?

-B4.
 

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I am guessing you have a WRX and not an STI. On the STI you dont need the uppipe but on the WRX it will help.

I say once you go UTEC you have passed the stock reliablity issues. You are starting to mess with fuel curves, timing, boost etc. You are no longer in the world of BASIC bolt ons. While you are at it, you should just go ahead and do FMIC, and a FP Green turbo.

Grounding wires no big deal.

Intake no big deal.

I have read that on the STI the fuel system is actually over 100% duty cycle. So on that model I would do the fuel rails, fuel injectors, and fuel pump for sure.
 

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OK enough beating around the bush rubbishness...first you have to decide what you are willing to put up with and what fits in your terms of 'streetable'....there are plenty here that are willing to put up with a massive turbo, a spiky power curve, a heavy clutch and rock hard suspension and for them...it is still streetable.

Aside from that, I will also mention that max power may impress some(say girls), give one brag rights and perhaps even be great on the straights, but the fact is....a laggy turbo or a spiky curve(which often comes with the big turbo once it gets spooled) can actually be slower and dangerous when it comes to twisting roads, tracks etc....the key is to have a usable power band and that comes from proper mapping........and well anti-lag would be great to(but I think that is a step up from 'streetable'....even racers don't use anti-lag all the time...only switched on during tight sections).....

So the point is...decide what you want from the car, how much you are willing to spend...etc etc
 

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Also keep in mind that once you go with a utec or and other user tunable setup, you further run the risk of things going south. Stock maps are great but these units are meant to be tuned by a professional on the road or on a dyno.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
T3RMIN4L said:
Also keep in mind that once you go with a utec or and other user tunable setup, you further run the risk of things going south. Stock maps are great but these units are meant to be tuned by a professional on the road or on a dyno.
So basically, if I go with a stock UTEC map or a professionally adjusted one, the reliability of my daily driven STi should be minimially impacted, especially if I keep the maps on the more conservative side of the spectrum?

-B4.
 
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