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Good evening,

I have a 13 wrx and my check engine light is repeatedly coming on. I ran the OBD II reader and its telling me it’s the O2 sensor, was told it will happen until it get it tuned, my question is how to get a decent tune for a reasonable price....
 

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Good evening,

I have a 13 wrx and my check engine light is repeatedly coming on. I ran the OBD II reader and its telling me it’s the O2 sensor, was told it will happen until it get it tuned, my question is how to get a decent tune for a reasonable price....
You have to buy an accessport that will be 650-700 dollars. Then you need to find a tuner for 300-500 depending on the shop. So 950-1200 bucks for a noise maker.
I'd take the intake off, sell it and not sorry about it
 

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2020 WRX Premium || 2020 Toyota Supra || 2016 Cadillac SRX4 || 2014 Cadillac CTS V Wagon
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Buy a used AP for cheap(er). Look in the for sale forum or on eBay. Load the stage 1+ 91 octane tune. It should work fine and you may actually get some gains from your intake...or you’ll blow your shit up...gonna be one of those...good luck.
 

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Buy a used AP for cheap(er). Look in the for sale forum or on eBay. Load the stage 1+ 91 octane tune. It should work fine and you may actually get some gains from your intake...or you’ll blow your shit up...gonna be one of those...good luck.
No. This isn't that kind of party.

Tunes have to be made to each brand of intake this is not a one size fits all ordeal.
 

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Uh, yes, in this case it is that kind of party. The K&N CAI and the Cobb SF for 2013 models are similar enough that the Stage 1+ 91 tune would work. It won’t be optimal, but by using 93 octane gas while running the 91 octane tune which uses “lower boost targets, richer fuel curves and less aggressive ignition advance” it should run fine and still make more power than stock while continuing to deliver all the cool sounds. If it continues to throw CELs or doesn’t deliver improved performance, put the stock intake back on, run the stage 1 (91 or 93) tune and still make more power or pony up another few hundred for the Cobb intake and make even more. So a used AP ~$450, maybe another $225 for the Cobb SF if necessary = ~$675... either way, still a lot less than the “$950-1200” you suggest.

When I joined this forum, I thought it was going to be a site for WRX enthusiasts who could share their ideas and innovation in a communal quest for improved performance and individuality. Instead, all I’m hearing is that it’s good enough the way it is, that will void your warranty, that offset is too high...blah, blah, blah...
 

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We don't approve of the spread of misinformation here. Sorry but your assumption on the intake is incorrect regardless of what octane you run. Lowering your boost targets because you don't want to actually do it right is why exploded ej parts are piled in corners in shops across the nation.

If you are going to half ass your way through it you'll have a bad time anywhere actual knowledge is present. There are numerous other groups that will coddle you and tell you everything is what you want to here and that's fine. Those places are important so when someone doesn't like the correct answer and their preferred wrong answer explodes in their face they suddenly learn the value of a forum with experience and knowledge.

You do you though.
 

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Get with the times, XJ. In 2020 everything is based around misinformation as long as it's comforted by a group mentality. Free hugs from IWSTI and Facebook users.

Everyone knows you can tune your own EJ with incorrect parts by gas station compensation. Pump number four offers a conservative safe tune. Seriously though, the intake should run fine as long as the OP keeps all of his shifts under 2,500 and only stays in vacuum range. Set the shift indicator to 2300, just to be safe.
 

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Its baffling with the number of Subaru EJ and fj engines blown up every day that this level of misinformation is present. I blame the aftermarket manufacturers and their misleading claims to be honest. There has been one company to try and put out information showing that their product in fact didn't need a tune when in fact is showed why they need a tune on further inspection. The maf sensor showed the same amount of airflow as the stock box but the actual airflow was different.

That's shady bs
 
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