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K&N Air Filter (Drop in) - Tune needed?

27718 Views 10 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  cwo1984
If I got the K&N drop in Air Filter (model K&N 33-2304) to replace my stock air filter, that doesn't require a tune does it? It says that it increases 50% more airflow, so I just want to make sure before I buy it.
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If it affects your airflow, then it affects your AFR (logically speaking)...in which case a tune should happen. In this case, I'd say stick with the OEM filter.
Yeah. I'll stick with the OEM filter. At least until after warranty is up and I'm ready for the access port, and other mods.

I was liking the idea of the K&N filter for being able to clean it and drop it back in.
Oiled filters are advised to be avoided as they can gum up the MAF sensor quicker.
My K&N in my Buick gummed up the TBI butterfly valve too........
Do not do a KN on an engine you care about, and definitely not a MAF engine.


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I believe aem makes a dry flow filter that fits the stock box. They have far better filtration than k&n and don't blow oil all over the maf

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K&N Air Filter (Drop in) - Tune needed?

I believe aem makes a dry flow filter that fits the stock box. They have far better filtration than k&n and don't blow oil all over the maf

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They do. You can also buy one with more of an actual box from GrimmSpeed. It comes with an oiled filter, but they offer a separate dry version of that filter. The filter is $60 though.
Edit: if you wanted to replace the actual intake that is.

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This is a difficult question to answer and I think a bit of education is required to address the logic of the question.

Firstly, it's not the additional airflow that requires a tune when installing an intake (not usually) -- this is a common misconception. The OEM ECU is generally able to compensate for airflow cells that are far above the stock peak consumption. The biggest reason for ECU recalibration is the shape of the curve itself. In order to achieve the correct Air:Fuel ratios for proper fuel combustion, the ECU must convert a voltage signal from the MAF sensor (typically hot-wire type sensor) into an airflow measurement -- usually g/s. The hot-wire sensor can only measure a single point inside of the intake, so the overall MAF in g/s is correlated to sensor voltage through a calibrated look-up table.


(2015 STI map)

This correlation is very sensitive to external factors. If the MAF housing diameter is changed, the lookup table will have a scale error proportional to the ratio between the two areas contained by a 2D cross-section of the housing.

Some maths:
Table(new) = (pi*r(new)^2)/(pi*r(old)^2) = r(new)^2/r(old)^2 *Table(old)
The calibration is also sensitive to the position of the MAF sensor within the MAF housing. If the position of the sensor changes within the housing, either a scale or nonlinear error factor is applied to the calibration.

A drop-in filter does not change the housing or the MAF position, but it can change the way the air enters the MAF housing, which may perturb the calibration. How much the calibration is perturbed depends on the way the airflow is disrupted and very difficult to characterize.


Some notes for the curious -- This is the way by which companies like ETS claim horsepower gains by intake alone. Most of the gain in power comes from leaning out the MAFv relationship. Consequently this is also the majority of gains that are made by a "Stage 1" ECU calibration. It's a cheap and dirty way to gain power, but at the expense of all other compensation tables that rely on true load calculation. I also mentioned earlier

it's not the additional airflow that requires a tune when installing an intake (not usually)
This is not strictly true, since there are cases where the additional airflow will create load conditions where timing and fueling are not calibrated. In these situations, the ECU will extrapolate the timing and fueling to best map the load condition, but it may not be adequate.
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Cliff notes:
If this were me and I was insistent on running a drop-in filter -- firstly I'd use a dry filter only -- I would keep close tabs on my LTFT and FLKC tables. If something seemed off, I would probably remap the MAFv calibration. I've done this a million times and it takes patience, but eventually it'll smooth out. Good news is that the front O2 sensor in the FA20F can be used as a wideband reference as I've heard.
Wasn't there something about the VA subarus having a tuned barometric pressure set with the stock and certain drop in within the intake box? I know the OEM filter, Cosworth drop in, and AC Delco were the three that kept this number perfect.


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