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Can anyone tell me where are the jack points are on the WRX, I know there are one on each side but when you jack up there theres no place to get in jack stands. Also when AAMCO replaced my tranmission they forget to tighten down the castleated nuts under my wheel bearing and they didn't even put any cotter pins in them! So basically my wheels were eventually just going to snap up and I probably would have died. I was wondering if any has the torque specs to what to torque them down to or if anyone knows where I can get that info? Thanks.
 

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KnightWRXRider,

I ran into this very question last weekend. Jacked the car with a floor jack at one of the corners where the OE jack goes, and it was like, "uh, okay: how do I get the jackstand on there now ?"

I went on the i-Club and there were a bunch of threads on this very topic. Most said not to raise the car with a floor jack at the 4 recommended jacking points as you could bend that lip that runs through the center of the jacking point. But I did that and incurred no damage.

Anyway, the consensus is to jack the car with the floor jack at these two points: front - center brace under the middle of the sway bar, right behind the oil pan (this might be tough to reach with a smaller floor jack). rear- the differential. Insert a block of wood to keep the floor jack from damaging these areas. You can then put the jack stands on the side by the wheels where the OE jacking points are. Another suggestion was to put the jack stands under the sub-frame in front and under the front arm of the rear suspension in the back (where it attaches near the side of the car).

Can't help you the torque specs. Shame on AAMCO, though. :eek:
 

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revived!

yeah, i made the mistake of jacking up the car from one of the 4 jack points, and ended up bending the thin fin in the process :(


btw i have the rear differential protector that came as an option on the car, does that mean i won't hafta use the block of wood to jack up the car?
 

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I know this should be a no-brainer, but don't forget to chock your wheels while you're raising the car. I damned near put my floor jack through the gas tank when the car slipped forward slightly because I didn't chock the front wheels adequately. College chemistry books don't work well as wheel chocks.

When you're jacking the front, you can drive up on some 2x4s to get extra clearance if you're lowered or your floor jack is a bit too tall.
 

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also another good tip:

when jacking up your car, DONT use a block of wood if you're lifting the car from one of the 4 outer jack points, cause the metal is so thin there, it'll eventually cause the wood to crack, and break, so when you're about to place the jackstand underneath the car, the block splits and the car jumps down about 2 inches and the jack slams into the jacking point :eek:
 

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Torque spec:

In my 2003 owners manual, Page 9-13 it states:

58 to 72 ft-lb (80 to 100 N-m, 8 to 10 kg-m)

I torqued mine at 70 ft-lb.

BTW. As soon as I picked up my car from the dealer and brought it home, I immediately checked the amount of torque set by the dealer by reverse torqueing...does that make mechanical sense?

Anyway, I was surprised to get a 120 ft-lb reading before the lug nut broke loose.
I only checked the torque because the wheel lock key looked like it was impact wrenched.

It pays to check these thing out.
 

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Re: Torque spec:

XRW URABUS said:
In my 2003 owners manual, Page 9-13 it states:

58 to 72 ft-lb (80 to 100 N-m, 8 to 10 kg-m)

I torqued mine at 70 ft-lb.

BTW. As soon as I picked up my car from the dealer and brought it home, I immediately checked the amount of torque set by the dealer by reverse torqueing...does that make mechanical sense?

Anyway, I was surprised to get a 120 ft-lb reading before the lug nut broke loose.
I only checked the torque because the wheel lock key looked like it was impact wrenched.

It pays to check these thing out.
Oops, I should of read the first post better. I assumed you were talking about the lug nuts, thus I assumed wrong.
(FWIW at least everyone gets a fresh reminder :) )
 

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Re: Torque spec:

XRW URABUS said:
In my 2003 owners manual, Page 9-13 it states:

58 to 72 ft-lb (80 to 100 N-m, 8 to 10 kg-m)
That's what I was looking for. Don't know why they put it in the spare tire instructions and not under the rotating wheels section. I've only had to put on a spare once in my lifetime.
 

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I hate posting and asking questions that have been answered, but i can't see kurlydaddee's picture. It was posted 4 years ago, so that may have something to do with it, but does anyone have a link to a pic of the front cross member location? I'm sure i can find it on my own, but i've screwed up jacking a car on more than one occasion (my side sill spoilers are pissed at me).
 

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ClubWRX rocks. Thanks BrianH for the quick and very useful reply. I wish I had more time to play with my scooby, there is so much good info here.
 

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okay, so to clarify....

jack stands go exactly where the standard jack WOULD go? that thin fin area?

what if one is bent?

where else is good for jackstands?
 

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In front I use just behind the oil pan cover, like BrianH posted. In the rear I use the rear diff. For stands I use the frame rails and the frame rail connectors (the trapezoidal pieces) - not sure which is in front and which is in rear.

Remember kids, jack front up first while chocking rear. Then put up the rear. Reverse to let down. I like to keep the jack on the front/rear depending on which has its wheels off, just in case something happens. Note: I use this in addition to stands and just put it until light pressure, so as not to take away from the stands but to have there in case it's necessary.

Also note that it'd be pretty much impossible to jack up the rear first and then the front, because the front is the harder of the two.
 

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TacticalNuke said:
Also note that it'd be pretty much impossible to jack up the rear first and then the front, because the front is the harder of the two.
Learnd that one the first time I jacked my car, if you jack the back first, there is no way to get the jack under the front bumper. I use a jack that has a rubber pad, and jack the front cross member with center cover protecting the steering rack, the rear diff for the back, nd jack stands on the subframes.
 

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Add another 2 years to this post! :rolleyes:

OK, so this is what would be considered the center jack point? It's pretty far back into the vehicle. I would be surprised if most 2-1/4 ton (what I use) floor jacks would get back there and have enough clearance to move the handle. That's where driving up on a 2x4 would help.

What I loved about my old RSX-S is that it had perfectly placed jack points. The front was just past the front bumper and the rear was on the rear tow hook. Block it, raise it up dead center, position your jack stands and you're golden.

Knowing that I can use that plate just past the oil pan definitely helps.
 
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