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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So, I have a Perrin short-ram air intake on my 2006 WRX, and I cannot get my temps down to save my life. I've been logging my IATs and they are consistently 15-30 degrees higher than ambient temps when driving, and close to double the ambient temperature when at a standstill. My turbo is ceramic coated, as well covered by a turbo blanket on the hot side, my headers, uppipe, and downpipe are all wrapped, I've got an SPT intake heat shield with DEI Gold on the outside to prevent it from becoming heatsoaked, and the intake pipe is also wrapped in DEI Gold to prevent heatsoak. Nothing has helped. I'm pretty close to losing my sanity here. I feel like I've tried everything to lower my engine bay temps, but nothing has seemed to have a significant effect. I want to make this work, but I feel as if this intake has become more trouble than it's worth. I just want to try everything before I make a switch.

Side note: The strange thing is, even though my IATs are apparently insanely high, I can leave my car running for 20+ minutes while sitting still and when I touch the hood it's completely cool. You would think that if the under-the-hood temps were high enough to be recording IATs almost double the ambient temperature at times, the hood would at least be warm from that heat, but it's not at all.

Here's a list of my mods so there is no room for any confusion:

VF39 with ceramic coating and turbo blanket
STI TMIC with DEI Gold on the endtanks
Tomei turbo inlet
Perrin short-ram intake with DEI Gold on the piping
SPT intake heat shield with DEI Gold on the side facing the motor
Tomei UEL headers with DEI titanium wrap
Tomei uppipe with DEI titanium wrap
Invidia catless downpipe with DEI titanium wrap
Perrin cat-back exhaust
Koyorad aluminum racing radiator
Perrin AOS
COBB EBCS

Last four probably aren't important, but I figured I'd throw them in there anyway. Anyone have any tips?


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I've seen something about relocating the sensor to get a more accurate reading. That may possibly be your solution if you've taken other steps to combat heat.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've seen something about relocating the sensor to get a more accurate reading. That may possibly be your solution if you've taken other steps to combat heat.

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Hmm. That could work. At this point I've done everything that can be done to combat heat, so that may be my only option. Isn't the IAT sensor integrated into the MAF, though? How would I separate them?

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Hmm. That could work. At this point I've done everything that can be done to combat heat, so that may be my only option. Isn't the IAT sensor integrated into the MAF, though? How would I separate them?

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I can't speak to it as I haven't spent much time reading into it. I'm trying to find a post so hang in there while I search

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Per your last thread. Ej257 has a post talking about it. http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showthread.php?t=134587177

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Thanks! I read his posts about it, and I think I would rather switch to a different intake, since relocating the IAT sensor seems really involved and I don't want to be drilling holes in things. Lol

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FWIW, the IAT relocate is a very solid modification, but the ECU will require significant recalibration.

Given that this is a GD WRX with some mild bolt-ons, I question if an aftermarket intake really brings anything worthwhile to the table...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
FWIW, the IAT relocate is a very solid modification, but the ECU will require significant recalibration.

Given that this is a GD WRX with some mild bolt-ons, I question if an aftermarket intake really brings anything worthwhile to the table...
Maybe if all I had was an exhaust and a tune, yeah, an aftermarket intake probably wouldn't make a difference, but seeing as I've also done a turbo swap and am tuned to 19 PSI, yeah, a more freely flowing intake is definitely beneficial. All of the mods I've done are past the point of "mild bolt-ons." Mild bolt-ons would be a downpipe and a cat-back with a tune.

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I'm not sure I agree with you, having personal experience with a larger turbo in my previous WRX.

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IAT relocation really isn't that big of a deal, you just need to run the wiring and make slight adjustments to the ECU. If you're DIY tuning, Cobb offers the calibration tables for you for the new sensor (assuming you're using an approved unit like AEM), if not, your tuner should be able to make them pretty easily. Additionally, you'll want to make adjustments to the compensation tables, since you're no longer monitoring air before it goes through a hair dryer.

In all honesty, IAT relocation is more reliable than leaving it in the MAF sensor. The whole purpose to monitoring IAT is determining the density of air as it goes into the engine; why wouldn't you want to monitor it at the source?

A traditional CAI may reduce IATs at the MAF sensor, but it's still not the ideal setup.
 
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