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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So last week I got my clutch changed from the stock one to an ACT Street Performance clutch (Part: SB5-HDSS) and a StreetLite flywheel (Part: 600480) and after they put it all in my car, when idling, will sputter and seem like its about to die. Doing some research I came up with a thread that is almost exactly the same:

https://www.reddit.com/r/subaru/comments/4vf7bk/changed_my_clutch_and_engine_is_idling_rough_help/

The difference from mine is that I have a 2006 WRX and I also am getting misfires on all 4 cylinders or multiple cylinders occasionally. The other problems I have with my car are: leaking cam seals (about to get fixed with new timing belt), I get a CEL code for high voltage fuel system readings (I put in a new fuel pump and accidentally ripped the wires for the gas gauge when putting it back in) which I usually just clear off and it doesn't come back for weeks, and some other small oil leaks. None of these seem like they could be the culprit for my terrible idle because I have had these issues and the bad idle just started.

Today I cleaned the MAF because I read that that might cause the terrible idle, no avail. BUT I did notice that somehow the screws that screw in the MAF are not really going in, as if the slots where the screws go into is stripped. The MAF can be pushed down all the way and appears to be tight but I fear there might be air escaping there...

The help on the reddit thread suggested that it is because of the flywheel being lighter than the stock. The flywheel I ordered is 15 lbs and from what I can see on that thread the stock is 18-21 lbs. If this is an issue then what is the fix?

I am bringing the car back to the shop on monday to get the cam seals fixed and can have them fix their mistake if they did something wrong. Again, this ONLY happens at idle. I haven't tried even engaging the boost though in fear of the leaky cams and not wanting to ruin the fresh clutch (<100 miles on it). On cruise control it runs good still.

One more random question, I got my timing belt and all pulleys/water pump replaced in February, about 14k miles ago. If my cam seals are leaking and messing up the timing belt there is a risk it will snap and bye-bye engine. Do you guys think this is a high risk with a small leak that has started recently (within 2 months to my knowledge) and on that new timing belt? I deliver pizza in this car and am supposed to deliver for 20 hours this weekend and I told them I can't drive out of fear for losing my engine. But the timing belt seems new enough that it could last the weekend. I do not know anything about the durability of these belts so it's based off pure intuition. I would rather play it on the safe side but I really do need the money.


TL;DR
My engine idles rough all the time, my guesses are either:
1: Oil has lubed up the timing belt from the cam seal leaks to the point where it is throwing off timing
2: New clutch and lightweight flywheel are the culprit
3: MAF Sensor is leaking air out of it, causing bad readings
4: (Bonus guess) I recently installed a boost gauge and maybe there is a leak somewhere (Shop said they couldn't find any leaks)

I tried to get as much information about this as I could before asking you guys, but I don't know any Subaru experts and have just started learning all this this year.


Miles: 188000
Model: 2006 WRX Sedan
Mods: 255lph walbro fuel pump

4.5" catless turboback exhaust

greddy BOV with plug to change it to vent to atmosphere (tuned for it)

stage 2 tune

Secondary airpump deletes
 

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So last week I got my clutch changed from the stock one to an ACT Street Performance clutch (Part: SB5-HDSS) and a StreetLite flywheel (Part: 600480) and after they put it all in my car, when idling, will sputter and seem like its about to die. Doing some research I came up with a thread that is almost exactly the same:

https://www.reddit.com/r/subaru/comments/4vf7bk/changed_my_clutch_and_engine_is_idling_rough_help/

The difference from mine is that I have a 2006 WRX and I also am getting misfires on all 4 cylinders or multiple cylinders occasionally. The other problems I have with my car are: leaking cam seals (about to get fixed with new timing belt), I get a CEL code for high voltage fuel system readings (I put in a new fuel pump and accidentally ripped the wires for the gas gauge when putting it back in) which I usually just clear off and it doesn't come back for weeks, and some other small oil leaks. None of these seem like they could be the culprit for my terrible idle because I have had these issues and the bad idle just started.

Today I cleaned the MAF because I read that that might cause the terrible idle, no avail. BUT I did notice that somehow the screws that screw in the MAF are not really going in, as if the slots where the screws go into is stripped. The MAF can be pushed down all the way and appears to be tight but I fear there might be air escaping there...

The help on the reddit thread suggested that it is because of the flywheel being lighter than the stock. The flywheel I ordered is 15 lbs and from what I can see on that thread the stock is 18-21 lbs. If this is an issue then what is the fix?

I am bringing the car back to the shop on monday to get the cam seals fixed and can have them fix their mistake if they did something wrong. Again, this ONLY happens at idle. I haven't tried even engaging the boost though in fear of the leaky cams and not wanting to ruin the fresh clutch (<100 miles on it). On cruise control it runs good still.

One more random question, I got my timing belt and all pulleys/water pump replaced in February, about 14k miles ago. If my cam seals are leaking and messing up the timing belt there is a risk it will snap and bye-bye engine. Do you guys think this is a high risk with a small leak that has started recently (within 2 months to my knowledge) and on that new timing belt? I deliver pizza in this car and am supposed to deliver for 20 hours this weekend and I told them I can't drive out of fear for losing my engine. But the timing belt seems new enough that it could last the weekend. I do not know anything about the durability of these belts so it's based off pure intuition. I would rather play it on the safe side but I really do need the money.


TL;DR
My engine idles rough all the time, my guesses are either:
1: Oil has lubed up the timing belt from the cam seal leaks to the point where it is throwing off timing
2: New clutch and lightweight flywheel are the culprit
3: MAF Sensor is leaking air out of it, causing bad readings
4: (Bonus guess) I recently installed a boost gauge and maybe there is a leak somewhere (Shop said they couldn't find any leaks)

I tried to get as much information about this as I could before asking you guys, but I don't know any Subaru experts and have just started learning all this this year.


Miles: 188000
Model: 2006 WRX Sedan
Mods: 255lph walbro fuel pump

4.5" catless turboback exhaust

greddy BOV with plug to change it to vent to atmosphere (tuned for it)

stage 2 tune

Secondary airpump deletes
You only need one thread on this topic. It's likely the flywheel, you'll need to buy a factory one and have it installed. Also, just to add you can't tune a maf system for a blow off valve that is vent to atmosphere

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I didn't mean to post twice. I tried to delete this one as well but it didn't seem to go. When I got my car tuned he said he would tune for a BOV and I figured it was because it was a VTA. Still learning I apologize.
 
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