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Discussion Starter #1
Just kidding guys. I hear that is the norm for a noob like me.

What I'm really looking to do is get a feel for what I should be doing first as far as inexpensive (<$500) power mods to get the most bang for the buck. I am new to WRXs and even to turbo cars for that matter, so bear with me please...

I have a 2011 WRX with about 12,000mi on it, and I have an Accessport currently running the Stage 1 93 octane map (the HWG version because I wasn't hitting target boost). I have a AEM CAI, and Invidia catless DP in the mail, and I'm just wondering what else you experts out there would be looking to do as far as cheap and easy power mods. I'm not looking to build a monster; otherwise I would have started with an STi. Just looking to make my daily driver as fun as possible without investing buckets of cash.

Before the lectures about brakes and suspension start rolling in, I already have done a couple minor things in those areas and looking to do more as money (read: my wife's patience) permits.

Thanks,

Ben
 

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As for the 400whp... I want each cowboy cheerleader to pull train on me.. Hell.. Figured since we were wishing...
 

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Lol, -trollolololl- However good advice on the tune and exhaust.. I dunno how much bhp I'll eventually go for but for now I'm all about turning and burning, breaking and turning are on my to do list.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Haha, thanks for the warm welcome all. Sorry for the title...I just got a bit of a chuckle reading some of the past newbie threads and thought I'd follow suit.

Quick follow-on questions: I'm guessing a hybrid BPV/BOV is just for sound and doesn't really have a positive effect on performance. Is this true? Also, would a boost controller be redundant since the AP already raises boost? Thanks.
 

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I'm guessing a hybrid BPV/BOV is just for sound and doesn't really have a positive effect on performance. Is this true? Also, would a boost controller be redundant since the AP already raises boost? Thanks.
Yes, and yes.
 

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Also, would a boost controller be redundant since the AP already raises boost? Thanks.
Not necessarily. A 3 port electronic boost controller does a better job at regulating boost, but will require a custom tune. I would say that you wouldn't benefit much from one now but something to think about if you continue modding
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Since you already have a DP on the way get a protune.
Not necessarily. A 3 port electronic boost controller does a better job at regulating boost, but will require a custom tune. I would say that you wouldn't benefit much from one now but something to think about if you continue modding
Thanks guys. I'll look into getting a protune once I decide what additional mods I'm willing to make. FMIC kits seem to be about the same price as a turbo! Internals are pretty much out of the question, so I'm not sure what else that leaves me with. Might consider doing a turbo swap if I can avoid having to make a bunch of supporting mods. Thoughts?
 

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Thanks guys. I'll look into getting a protune once I decide what additional mods I'm willing to make. FMIC kits seem to be about the same price as a turbo! Internals are pretty much out of the question, so I'm not sure what else that leaves me with. Might consider doing a turbo swap if I can avoid having to make a bunch of supporting mods. Thoughts?
If that is your hope then don't even consider a turbo swap. Until you are willing to do all the proper supporting mods then don't even consider it. FMIC has absolutely no reason to go onto your car now or in the near future based on your mods and plans
 

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Welcome to the forum.

Just because I don't think anyone else picked up on this, the Cobb stg2 map calls for a catted downpipe. That map won't work well with the catless invidia you mentioned. Also, (may just be a typo on your part) you should be running the stg1+AEM tune, not just stg1 right now. May be why your target boost was off.

If you really want to keep the catless dp, then my advice would be to sell the ap and take the money from that and buy a pro-tune.

Cobb's Map Notes for stg2+AEM:

Stage2+AEM 93 MTv300 - Intended for an otherwise stock 2009-2011 Subaru WRX MT vehicle running a turboback
exhaust with a high-flow catalytic converter and AEM Cold Air intake system. 93 or 94 octane fuels. Boost
Targets: ~18.2psi peak boost pressure tapering down to ~13.5psi by the 7000 RPM redline, +/- 1psi.

Stage2+AEM 91 MTv300 - Intended for an otherwise stock 2009-2011 Subaru WRX MT vehicle running a turboback
exhaust with a high-flow catalytic converter and AEM Cold Air intake system. 91 or 92 octane fuels. Boost
Targets: ~17.0psi peak boost pressure tapering down to ~13.0psi by the 7000 RPM redline, +/- 1psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If that is your hope then don't even consider a turbo swap. Until you are willing to do all the proper supporting mods then don't even consider it. FMIC has absolutely no reason to go onto your car now or in the near future based on your mods and plans
Good to hear about the FMIC. What would you consider "proper" supporting mods for a conservative turbo upgrade?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Welcome to the forum.

Just because I don't think anyone else picked up on this, the Cobb stg2 map calls for a catted downpipe. That map won't work well with the catless invidia you mentioned. Also, (may just be a typo on your part) you should be running the stg1+AEM tune, not just stg1 right now. May be why your target boost was off.

If you really want to keep the catless dp, then my advice would be to sell the ap and take the money from that and buy a pro-tune.
Sorry if I wasn't clear - the AEM intake is on its way in the mail along with the DP, i.e. not on the car yet.

Hmm, guessing I should return the DP. Really would like to keep the AP.

Thanks - Ben
 

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Hmm, guessing I should return the DP. Really would like to keep the AP.
Oh, sorry for the confusion. In the end it's all up to you. May I ask why you decided to go with a cat-less dp?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oh, sorry for the confusion. In the end it's all up to you. May I ask why you decided to go with a cat-less dp?
Sounded like a good idea at the time. I asked around a bit and was told that a map made for a high flow cat would work fine with no cat and that worst case scenario I'd have to use my AP to clear a check engine light for O2.
 
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